expert TIG welder?

[kato pup dog]

How stuck are you on TIG welding it? Have you asked about aluminum soldering? There are, or were, several aluminum solders that will adhere and build without melting the base metal. In this situation that may be your only viable option.

 

[jbett98]

How about using some JB Weld to bond it back together and then drilling down at an angle using a small diameter drill bit on either side, and then reinforcing the drilled holes by pinning it with the same drill bit and some more JB Weld.
I've had great success using this method on similar sized aluminum parts.

 

[rcguy]

Coming from a fabricators perspective. I think that would probably work. Great idea kato

 

[nextgenar]

I think i would try some jb weld on it. Might work.

 

[Jamie6.5]

I have an aluminum floor plate with a broken hinge pin hole. I contacted every known parts house I could find and followed their referals ( Brownwlls, Jack First, Nurmburg, Western Gun parts just to name a few) plus internet searches and gun shows over the last year and a half without success.
I need a Portland area TIG welder experienced in very small and precise aluminum welding.
The rifle is useable as is with much care but if the welding is done right I can redrill it and file it and all is well, but if it goes south, the rifle is will be no good without another floor plate.
Yah, No pressure here!
Does not need to be a gunsmith just a good Tig welder.
Any referrals ?

Too bad you're not a little further south. I know just the person.
He looked at the pic and says it would be no problem to attach enough material for you to re-create that ear/loop.
And do it without warping it.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

UPS probably runs way south of here.

 

[thorborg]

I think i would try some jb weld on it. Might work.

I thought of that, and might give it a try this week end since I've has some success with it in other endeavors in my life.
Only I would drill a couple tiny maybe 20thousands holes for a foot hold foundation for it to ooze in so I'm not just relying on surface adhesion, plus imbed a music wire loop within for additional attachment strength. Should that fail then I can still remove it and go back to the weld blob Idea.
In the event that happens I'll picture it up for the curious and post it.
The reason it broke in the first place is due to the weak design. The 4 round magazine attaches to the floor plate which is spring assisted, on opening, the weight of the magazine, floor plate, and up to 4 rounds come slamming down with an abrupt stop transferring some serious inertia on a couple very tiny hinge pivots as it violently hits the fore stock at 90 degrees (Muzzle down) (Muzzle up would not have the same impact). Since I'm not in battle and in all my hunting years have never needed a second shot let alone to speed reload, I think removing the spring assist and catching the dropping assembly would greatly reduce the stress and force on the repaired hinge pivot until a replacement is found.

 

[thorborg]

I'm Good for now, Thanks for all your input. It was motivational.
Here is a temporary solution I came up with which appears to be reasonably strong albeit I would not want it in a dangerous application of trust my life situation.
I hope this spurs others to roll up your sleeves and be all you can be.

 

[thorborg]

I should have edited the previous post as I had one too many Pictures. Here is the finished product looking from the broken side .

 

[rcguy]

That looks really good you did a good job. Congratulations

 

[Velzey]

Good job! And I already am all I can be!! Yah I knew it was anodized cuz I went and hardness checked the two Brownings I have...

I am keeping an eye out for a standard length for you, I keep finding magnum ones... Hmmmmm maybe you can just cut the middle section out of a magnum and weld it up

 

[thorborg]

Thanks, I amaze my self sometimes since I have cataracts in my right eye and a not too good left. Tiny things are more a guess now days.
Velzey, I examined the magnum from Brownells I just sent back to see if it was tweekable but too many differences; hinge pin hole location and spacing, over all width and a different strike area design all subtle but problematic as a group. Our gears seem to be spinning the same direction though.

 

[Straight Shooter]

That's a pretty simple part. Take it to your local high school metal shop and have them cast you a new one out of aluminum. Then you can take it home and detail it out and get it shaped just right then have it Cerakoted. That's what I would do. I would have them make up a couple spares too. Someday I'm going to put a foundry in my shop.

 

[thorborg]

I finally got it out for the real abuse last night in the coast range and as expected (but was really hoping otherwise), regardless of the "rebar" the violent stripping of the round caused the JB weld hinge to fail. Actually lasted the first four rounds shot with pausing intervals, and the subsequent reload, but the second rapid fire round I could feel the hinge let go as my support palm was laying just forward if the trigger. Theoretically, it's possible in a bolt gun, with care, it's life might have been longer.
JB Weld, this bell tolls for you!
Since I've given up on the weld concept. I'll grind off the base, drill through the bottom of the plate and counter sink and tap for a stainless 3/8" 10-32 FH screw to use as a post rather like a sling post, locktite it, then file / grind / drill the post to form a new hinge pivot. May not be pretty but wont warp the plate and should take the stress.