Ever made your own grips?

Classic · Oct 25, 2013

So I picked up a Les Baer after selling my King Cobra and I've decided I really don't like the slim grips because they dont protect the plunger tube. I picked up a .5 thick black walnut board that I can make 6 possibly 7 sets of grip from but one pair will be special because the wood goes from lite to dark where is was grafted. Anyway, other than a hand sander I don't have bubblegum for wood working tools other than a hand held orbital sander but I have a friend with a band saw and drill press.
I used the grip in my Gold Cup as a template, cut and drilled one set. Today I spent over an hour sanding & filing and making this thing baby butt smooth with 320 grit but MY QUESTION IS: I don't know what to finish it with to seal it and make the grain POP!

Any suggestions? Any wood workers?

Here's the pick of the right side...

bellarum · Oct 26, 2013

There are threads on here about refinishing stocks if you dig around. I'm taking off for work right now or I'd get into some thoughts and details. One thing for sure no matter what system you use: keep checking the clearance at the relief for the mag release and the screw holes. you don't want to get all done and find out too much finish material has built up in those areas and cause problems. Good luck! Nice work!

RVTECH · Oct 26, 2013

Any good oil finish/sealer product will do. Tung oil is good also. Actually the Birchwood Casey products are pretty good and you can get them in small amounts. Recently I had to fix a cracked forestock on a Winchester and I used some Birchwood Casey oil finish sealer I had from an old stock refinishing kit and it worked quite well. Unfortunately it was from a very old kit in a bunch of reloading stuff I was given so hopefully it is still available.

jbett98 · Oct 26, 2013

Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil works very well.
Apply a light coat, let it cure for 24 hrs or more, then lightly rub it down with 0000 steel wool and repeat for at least three coats.

Classic · Oct 26, 2013

Thanks guys!
I also found this on the web:
1911 Pistol Grips - The Process
I have extra wood so I'll try a bunch of suggested products. I will post picks when I get done!
Classic

jbett98 · Oct 26, 2013

Tung Oil takes 4-5 days in a warm room to cure enough for a re-coat.

Classic · Oct 30, 2013

Classic said:
So I picked up a Les Baer after selling my King Cobra and I've decided I really don't like the slim grips because they dont protect the plunger tube. I picked up a .5 thick black walnut board that I can make 6 possibly 7 sets of grip from but one pair will be special because the wood goes from lite to dark where is was grafted. Anyway, other than a hand sander I don't have bubblegum for wood working tools other than a hand held orbital sander but I have a friend with a band saw and drill press.
I used the grip in my Gold Cup as a template, cut and drilled one set. Today I spent over an hour sanding & filing and making this thing baby butt smooth with 320 grit but MY QUESTION IS: I don't know what to finish it with to seal it and make the grain POP!
Any suggestions? Any wood workers?

Here's the pick of the right side...

So I did a little research and here's the latest pick. I just put a coat of polyurethane on them (not this pick) so I should be really close to finished

Rusty Shackleford · Oct 30, 2013

I have been working on a target set for my S&W 17-4. I had some scrap cherry, made a template for the outside, cut that with a jigsaw. Then routed out the inside. Still a work in progress, all the shaping I've done with hand tools. I use wax in between shaping sessions, works great. When I am satisfied with the shape I'll sand them with 600 grit. Then use rubbing alcohol to remove any remnants of wax. Five coats of rub-on poly, sanding between coats let dry a few days and should be done. Making a set for a 1911 isn't that difficult I am surprised more people don't give it a try.

Classic · Oct 30, 2013

Rusty Shackleford said:
I have been working on a target set for my S&W 17-4. I had some scrap cherry, made a template for the outside, cut that with a jigsaw. Then routed out the inside. Still a work in progress, all the shaping I've done with hand tools. I use wax in between shaping sessions, works great. When I am satisfied with the shape I'll sand them with 600 grit. Then use rubbing alcohol to remove any remnants of wax. Five coats of rub-on poly, sanding between coats let dry a few days and should be done. Making a set for a 1911 isn't that difficult I am surprised more people don't give it a try.

Wow, you have a router and a jigsaw

I just applied my 1st coat of poly but if it doesn't lay flat enough I'm going to give it a light sand and spray the last coat.