Eager to learn Ammo reloading.

[RVTECH]

I only 'skimmed' through the vid about the Redding die (due to the guys voice) and with regard to the problem of 'shaving' the bullet it appeared to me he was going the 'long way around the barn' in adjusting the seating/crimp die.

I learned long ago to start by backing the die off so the case mouth misses the crimp ring and screw the seating stem several turns in deeper then with the round in the shell holder gently raise it into the die until you feel the bullet make contact with the seating stem and gently pull the handle until you feel the bullet move.

Remove the round and 'eyeball' the seating depth, measure with a caliper, or if the bullet has a cannelure, stop when the case mouth is centered on it. However you determine the depth you want to 'pre-seat the bullet to this depth.

Ok, back the seating stem off to clear the bullet and with the round completely in the die (press handle down completely) screw the die down until the crimp ring stops on the case mouth, back the round out a bit, then maybe a 1/4 turn of the die and lock it down.

Pull the handle to crimp the round and remove and inspect the crimp. If it is satisfactory do nothing, if not adjust the die up or down to create the crimp you want.

When the crimp is adjusted run the round up till it stops (press handle completely down) and screw the seating stem DOWN until it makes contact with the bullet, snug it up and tighten the lock ring.

You now have your seating/crimping die adjusted properly and you should never have a 'shaved' bullet, providing you have properly flared the case mouth.

Understand however slight differences in case length might result in a slightly heavier, or lighter crimp but this is the 'nature of the beast' when roll crimping pistol rounds.

 

[OneEyeOpen]

Before you load your first bullet, make sure you have a "stuck case remover", you will use it, hopefully later than sooner. Just make sure your cases are lubed well, even inside the necks. I have had to remover 2 stuck (case ripped apart) 300AAC cases. Because there was not enough lube on the case.

 

[arakboss]

Before you load your first bullet, make sure you have a "stuck case remover", you will use it, hopefully later than sooner. Just make sure your cases are lubed well, even inside the necks. I have had to remover 2 stuck (case ripped apart) 300AAC cases. Because there was not enough lube on the case.

Hornady One Shot. For stubborn cases you can even squirt some inside the die before sizing.

 

[awshoot]

Well I'm going to be the disagreeable one here:

Before you load your first bullet, make sure you have a "stuck case remover", you will use it, hopefully later than sooner. Just make sure your cases are lubed well, even inside the necks. I have had to remover 2 stuck (case ripped apart) 300AAC cases. Because there was not enough lube on the case.

I went something more than 20 years before I got a case stuck. I think he can start without one -- worst case scenario your reloading job is on hold for a few days before it gets delivered.

I do absolutely agree with lubing the inside of the case neck on bottleneck cases -- I have two nylon brushes in .22 and .30 caliber that I use -- they screw right into the base of my RCBS and Lyman handles. I only occasionally put lube on them - a little goes a long way.

Hornady One Shot. For stubborn cases you can even squirt some inside the die before sizing.

Using One Shot is how I got my case stuck and ended up owning a stuck case remover. Granted -- I was a new user of that stuff so probably did it wrong, but that can sits almost full to the top to this day. The fumes are instantly headache producing for me too.

 

[arakboss]

Well I'm going to be the disagreeable one here:



I went something more than 20 years before I got a case stuck. I think he can start without one -- worst case scenario your reloading job is on hold for a few days before it gets delivered.

I do absolutely agree with lubing the inside of the case neck on bottleneck cases -- I have two nylon brushes in .22 and .30 caliber that I use -- they screw right into the base of my RCBS and Lyman handles. I only occasionally put lube on them - a little goes a long way.



Using One Shot is how I got my case stuck and ended up owning a stuck case remover. Granted -- I was a new user of that stuff so probably did it wrong, but that can sits almost full to the top to this day. The fumes are instantly headache producing for me too.

I agree the smell is annoying. I try to spray it outside in good weather.

 

[GWS]

Dillon makes great presses Personally, I own an RL 650 and a Super 1050 but properly setting up a 650 (Now 750) costs over a thousand dollars and a 1050 closes in on $2000.
Looking at their "Essentials" setup for the 750 its $1030 and that's without a case feeder! Not having a case feeder on a 650 or 750 is like having a three-legged race horse. SO get the case feeder and add another$300 to your bill.
Now there are folks in this world who know exactly what they want and they go get it but a new reloader can get by on a lot less than a Dillon 750 and if they decide that reloading isn't for them they can get rid of a Lee Turret or a Rock Chucker a lot easier than they can a $1400 system.
If reloading sinks it's hooks into said new reloader then Banzai!! Go get that Dillon! But until that point is reached, a fellow can bang out a lot of quality ammo on that Turret, or Rock Chucker and for a whole lot less money.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[RyanG90]

Dillon makes great presses Personally, I own an RL 650 and a Super 1050 but properly setting up a 650 (Now 750) costs over a thousand dollars and a 1050 closes in on $2000.
Looking at their "Essentials" setup for the 750 its $1030 and that's without a case feeder! Not having a case feeder on a 650 or 750 is like having a three-legged race horse. SO get the case feeder and add another$300 to your bill.
Now there are folks in this world who know exactly what they want and they go get it but a new reloader can get by on a lot less than a Dillon 750 and if they decide that reloading isn't for them they can get rid of a Lee Turret or a Rock Chucker a lot easier than they can a $1400 system.
If reloading sinks it's hooks into said new reloader then Banzai!! Go get that Dillon! But until that point is reached, a fellow can bang out a lot of quality ammo on that Turret, or Rock Chucker and for a whole lot less money.
Just my 2 cents.

Thank you for the input man! I'm browsing some now! I'll post photos of what I end up with!

 

[RVTECH]

I went something more than 20 years before I got a case stuck.

Yep! about the same for me - maybe a little longer but regardless.

I managed to cobble up a 'stuck case remover' from shop junk - basically the same as the ones they sell.

 

[wollzy]

Yep! about the same for me - maybe a little longer but regardless.

I managed to cobble up a 'stuck case remover' from shop junk - basically the same as the ones they sell.

Yea I used a 1/4" bolt, a tap and die set, and a socket a little shorter than the bolt to get a case out. It was kinda sloppy so I bought a remover anyways.

 

[Helocat]

I agree the smell is annoying. I try to spray it outside in good weather.

One-Shot mucks up my cleaning chips over time due to the petroleum. I switched a while back to homemade with 99% alcohol non-petroleum lanolin used in makeup. 10:1 ratio.

Peg-75 for the Lanolin. This stuff:

Store -

Featured Products Triethanolamine (TEA) Triethanolamine 9 lbs. $50.00 Add to cart Triethanolamine (TEA) Triethanolamine 37 oz. $25.00 Add to cart Triethanolamine (TEA) Triethanolamine 46 lbs. $225.00 Add to cart Quick View Add to cart Triethanolamine (TEA) Triethanolamine 5 oz. $5.00 Quick View...

www.floridasunshineproducts.com

I think the spray bottle I mix it in cost more than the ingredients did when I bought them and I have lube for days.

The only smell is of alcohol until it flashes off! My boys when at the ranch where I moved my reloading room too, tease me all the time of "dads hitting the sauce" as its strong. These days finding 99% is prob not realistic for crazy cheap, its al medical grade. But still not that bad: Pure 99% Isopropyl Alcohol - 32 oz.

 

[Pops1911]

Love my Dillon 650XL. Love my Lee Progressive too. However I love them each for different reasons. Dillon for 45acp which I shoot a lot. Lee for 9mm 'cause I don't shoot very many of them. Yeah they both occasionally create issues when reloading, usually attributable to operator error.

 

[2ndtimer]

Don't really understand the unnecessary "laughing" emoji, I didn't say anything funny.

Also, if you have ever watched the rural Canada comedy, "Letterkenney", the horn a day line is right out of the show.

 

[wollzy]

Also, if you have ever watched the rural Canada comedy, "Letterkenney", the horn a day line is right out of the show.

Whoa easy there big shoots!

 

[Trails]

I did a lot of reading, asking questions, surfing reloading sites, etc. before I bought anything. I bought and read a reloading manual long before I got a press. I managed to link up with a fellow shooter who reloads, went to his home and 45 min later put a few rounds through my G30 that I reloaded.

When I got comfortable I bought a Dillon 550 press w/dies, a *good* quality dial indicator made by a company the manufactures precision measuring equipment and a heavier RCBS scale. You'll have to decide what other toys, tricks, tools you want to add to your stable, but don't skimp on reliability and accuracy.

For case prep I went with a wet tumbler and the stainless steel pins for media. If you go that route you will have to lube your cases even if its handgun. I found I was getting some brass transfer onto the dies because the cases were coming out so clean. Its all worth the effort. The cases come out like jewelry (Yes, I deprime before the tumble). In fact, I keep a separate tool head just for depriming/sizing my cases. I keep the entire prep process separate from the actual reloading phase.

I also subscribe to AmmoGuide.com for a wealth of info from a community of reloaders.
Remember to keep your press and the immediate area scrupulously clean, and free of distractions. You *will* make mistakes, learn from them and be up front with other reloaders about them.

Welcome, and good luck,

Trails
Southern Oregon

 

[RVTECH]

For case prep I went with a wet tumbler and the stainless steel pins for media. If you go that route you will have to lube your cases even if its handgun. I found I was getting some brass transfer onto the dies because the cases were coming out so clean.

Yes, you will have to lube you cases if you are using STANDARD dies but not with carbide.

I don't understand the 'brass transfer' you were getting. Were you possibly attempting to resize unlubed brass in a standard, non-carbide sizing die?

 

[2gunnztoo]

Copy ALL that. I am a newbie also. Just following the thread has taught me a lot. First investment was 100$ for a RCBS-JR3 and a Lyman scale. Between youtube and the people I meet here I am learning, practicing, collecting and lovin it.Only in America!

Youtube can be invaluable, you can move at your own speed when you are not with your "instructor".
Start shopping & saving brass & pick some off the groung where ever you shoot. Many shooter don't both to pickup their own mess. Seems like the most economical way to get brass bot you will need to inspect all. Look for used equipment is the best cost cutting measure, shop around ,get to know what is a rip & what may be a zip!

check this...newer ad here.
RCBS Jr. --> For Sale: RCBS Press

Product Catalog | RCBS

View the RCBS product catalog.

www.rcbs.com

I have seen good info here as to setting up the "work space".

Get a good, reliable scale. "Dies" aren't inexpensive these days but I guess that all relative to when what days were. I feel your pain. Stick with it, from the souonds of it, you will begin to recupe the expenditure fairly quickly. There will always be something you need or want or add or new & improved. I found it to be a lot like golf, except for the walk in the park. There will always be something, especially in the beginning. In 20 years, if you stick to it, you'll still be looking for that other thing. Hopefully you can bring another "newbie" or 10, into the fold. Maybe your buddy has some stuff they "grow" out of.

Good luck & best wishes.

 

[awshoot]

... "Dies" aren't inexpensive these days but I guess that all relative to when what days were. ...

I was curious -- the very first set of dies I bought was an RCBS carbide .38/.357 set in 1995. The tag on the box says I paid 29.99 for it. I used an inflation calculator, and in 2019, $29.99 would be worth $51.09. The current price for the same die set at Midway is $59.99 and direct from RCBS is $66.11. Apparently, these have actually increased in price faster than general inflation has.

 

[Trails]

@RVTECH
Roger that. They are standard Dillon dies. After I got things figured out, started lubing the cases (.45) everything went slick so I haven't changed anything on that toolhead. None the less I bought a set of RCBS TC dies, so maybe soon...

 

[RVTECH]

They are standard Dillon dies. After I got things figured out, started lubing the cases (.45) everything went slick so I haven't changed anything on that toolhead. None the less I bought a set of RCBS TC dies,

Got it !

The brass transfer you mentioned sounded suspicious.

Get moved over to the carbide die soon for a new experience!

 

[2gunnztoo]

Got it !

The brass transfer you mentioned sounded suspicious.

Get moved over to the carbide die soon for a new experience!

I salute your stamp sir!