Double barrel SxS

jonn5335 · Jul 12, 2012

I have a old new to me SxS that does not fire it seems like all the mechanisms are functioning properly but no firing pin strike the gun looks like it's been fired a few hundred thousand times I'm thinking the firing pins are shot any other suggestions and tips are appreciated
Thanks Jon

deadshot2 · Jul 13, 2012

There are usually two causes of this problem. One is dangerous. That is that when the action is closed, the lock doesn't hold the bolt face firmly against the end of the chamber. There is a tapered gap that can be visible when the gun is viewed from the side. This failure to fully lock closed keeps the firing pin from reaching out far enough for a firm strike on the primer.

Second is with the firing pin. Depending on design, the firing pin may or may not have a spring on it. If so, it's an inertial firing pin and has to be held back by the spring so the "hammer" hits it firmly, driving it forward with enough inertia to fire the primer. If the firing pin channel is "gunked up" or the spring is worn/broken, it will not fire or at best, fire intermittently.

I have also seen pins in these old "doubles" that are broken. Too many strikes on a piece of steel that was either flawed or improperly heat treated.

You didn't mention the name of the gun but if you visit the Numrich site, they have tons of parts for just about every one of these available. If a spring is needed and you can't find one ready made, Brownells has springs that can be cut to length to make a replacement.

I'd start first with a good inspection and clean-up. Make sure the breech lock is working properly and the firing pin channel with pins are free to move without any crud on their way.

Sometimes these old SxS shotguns just can't be repaired. If that's the case, I've seen some cute wall decorations made where the whole unit is put in a massive press and just squeezed flat. Some clear Krylon to keep it from rusting and hang it over the mantle.

jonn5335 · Jul 13, 2012

It's a Crecsent model 60 I already broke down the shotgun completely and inspected everything the firing pins are not broken and do not have springs the internal hammers do have dimples but not enough that I would think they would need replaced the springs seem good the lock up is loose but I planned on shimming it up via welding put I did place a blank shotshell with just a primer in it and locked up the shotgun as tight as I could by hand and pulled the trigger and no indentation on the primer I guess I should shim it up first. I bought it as a wall hanger to begin with but it just kept nagging at me "shoot me" it is an old old shotgun with little to no value but I figured what the heck if I can get it in firing condition cool if not it goes back on the wall

deadshot2 · Jul 14, 2012

jonn5335 said:
It's a Crecsent model 60 I already broke down the shotgun completely and inspected everything the firing pins are not broken and do not have springs the internal hammers do have dimples but not enough that I would think they would need replaced the springs seem good the lock up is loose but I planned on shimming it up via welding put I did place a blank shotshell with just a primer in it and locked up the shotgun as tight as I could by hand and pulled the trigger and no indentation on the primer I guess I should shim it up first. I bought it as a wall hanger to begin with but it just kept nagging at me "shoot me" it is an old old shotgun with little to no value but I figured what the heck if I can get it in firing condition cool if not it goes back on the wall

I used to have one almost exactly the same. When you lock the action without any "shell" in place, does the lever go all the way to it's stop? If it does, it's not locking as tight as it could. The swinging lock lever should stop just short of it's full travel without forcing it. That means that the action has closed fully and in under pressure from the wedging action of the lever. If you have to weld any shim material in place, you'll probably find that it will be a short lived repair. Welding at this point will take any temper out of the steel. Consider instead silver soldering. Lower temp.

If the "hammer"s have dimples, chances are that the firing pins also have been somewhat shortened by the hammering. Do the firing pins protrude about .050" or so when you push them through the bolt face? If not, check to see if there is any crud or carbon hammered into the front of the firing pin channel. Also, firing pins are $13 from Numrich. The hammer faces can be built up with some tig welding.

As for them being good "shooters", I shot my first perfect round of trap with one. Everyone used to make fun of me with my SxS as they were all shooting their high priced Perazzi's and Beretta's in O/U. I merely replied that if God wanted us to use O/U shotguns then he'd put one eye over the other.

Just remember, these old reliables were from another era and will "shoot loose" in no time at all with any "stout loads". I'd stick to 2-3/4 Dram equivalent loads. If reloading, even less would be better.

jonn5335 · Jul 14, 2012

deadshot2 said:
I used to have one almost exactly the same. When you lock the action without any "shell" in place, does the lever go all the way to it's stop? If it does, it's not locking as tight as it could. The swinging lock lever should stop just short of it's full travel without forcing it. That means that the action has closed fully and in under pressure from the wedging action of the lever. If you have to weld any shim material in place, you'll probably find that it will be a short lived repair. Welding at this point will take any temper out of the steel. Consider instead silver soldering. Lower temp.

If the "hammer"s have dimples, chances are that the firing pins also have been somewhat shortened by the hammering. Do the firing pins protrude about .050" or so when you push them through the bolt face? If not, check to see if there is any crud or carbon hammered into the front of the firing pin channel. Also, firing pins are $13 from Numrich. The hammer faces can be built up with some tig welding.

As for them being good "shooters", I shot my first perfect round of trap with one. Everyone used to make fun of me with my SxS as they were all shooting their high priced Perazzi's and Beretta's in O/U. I merely replied that if God wanted us to use O/U shotguns then he'd put one eye over the other.

Just remember, these old reliables were from another era and will "shoot loose" in no time at all with any "stout loads". I'd stick to 2-3/4 Dram equivalent loads. If reloading, even less would be better.

Thanks for the knowledge Deadshot. I'll solder the shim instead and weld up the hammers I'm getting .067 out of the pins. Thanks again you've been a great help

deadshot2 · Jul 16, 2012

jonn5335 said:
Thanks for the knowledge Deadshot. I'll solder the shim instead and weld up the hammers I'm getting .067 out of the pins. Thanks again you've been a great help

If you want to have some fun with that old piece, find some appropriate brass and load up a bunch of black powder rounds. Then go out and make some smoke :s0155: