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We do.
We have maybe 6 to 700 pounds of wheel weights from the late 80's and early 90's. For whatever reason, they're all a nominal BH factor of 9 to begin with.
I bought a 2 gallon bucket of Anthimony from the outfit here in Thompson falls that manufactures it. It's all in a rock form. The expensive stuff you buy from a store is in a (preferred) powder form, so........... we have to crunch it as small as we can with a mall. Once its in a granulated state, you can add it to the BH9 lead in your pot. It MUST be taken up to 1,100 degrees minimum for it to melt and mix into the lead.
We do have a Lyman Electric Lead Pot, however.......... being inescapably old school, I don't use the bottom load spout. I still use the dipper. I only depend on the Lyman for controlled temperatures. Latigo also prefers to use the dipper.
You also must take great care NOT to add too much. It takes a very small amount, measured in a fraction of grains. I remember doing just that years ago and found I could take the BH factor up to 32+, and the projectiles shattered upon target impact! ........ so, we use a BH factor of 18, and we can actually cast a .22 caliber projectile for the .223's that will push right at 3,200 fps.
........ but we also "case harden" projectiles that are pushing close to FMJ FPS or better projectiles. How do we do it? Ma's explanation is "NOT IN MY STOVE OR KITCHEN...... EVER AGAIN!!" Solution? We have a smaller counter top type oven. We do all of our casting outside anway, so........ It's the perfect solution. No Darning Eggs required. LOL!
So.... we cast the caliber, lube it through the Swager the first time in the diameter of the caliber, but that first Swager is 1/1000th over the size of the slugged bore.
Next comes the Case Hardening, and you have to pay close attention to the projectiles during the process.
Either in one of the smaller, portable ovens, (or in Ma's oven the first time before she kicked me out) with the temperature at 215 degrees. Stand them all upright, side by side in a shallow tray.......... Now you watch to see when they begin to acquire a glossy sheen. Remove them immediately and let them cool naturally...... No water dumping.
Now you're going to put them through the bullet Swager again, but........ this time it's through a Companion Swager that's 1/1000th smaller in diameter, matching the original slugged bore dimension making sure to run plenty of lube into the Swager...... What you do not want to do is break the surface and destroy the case hardening you've accomplished.
Now, if they're to be hunting loads,......... the tricky part. That case hardening must be broken on just the flat tip of the projectiles. You can use a flat, semi-fine file, BUT..... the projectile MUST be filed perfectly flat and 90 degrees to the sidewall. If not....... your projectiles will not print a moa POI at any real range. Probably ok (maybe) out to 100 yards, but the further out, the worse the group with noses that aren't true. I prefer sand paper.
It's true that a BH factor above 12 won't allow the bullet to expand much, but you can sure boost that FPS factor up to, and equal to a FMJ.
Now.......... an' you ain' gunna like dis wun........ You want to reach the velocities in the reloading books? Yep. you guessed it. hBN ICPs...... and only fired through a Slurry Sealed bore. You've already seen the process, and making ICPs out of these is fast. Each jar can take an easy 50 to 80 at a time, depending on your tumbler/vibrator.
We have maybe 6 to 700 pounds of wheel weights from the late 80's and early 90's. For whatever reason, they're all a nominal BH factor of 9 to begin with.
I bought a 2 gallon bucket of Anthimony from the outfit here in Thompson falls that manufactures it. It's all in a rock form. The expensive stuff you buy from a store is in a (preferred) powder form, so........... we have to crunch it as small as we can with a mall. Once its in a granulated state, you can add it to the BH9 lead in your pot. It MUST be taken up to 1,100 degrees minimum for it to melt and mix into the lead.
We do have a Lyman Electric Lead Pot, however.......... being inescapably old school, I don't use the bottom load spout. I still use the dipper. I only depend on the Lyman for controlled temperatures. Latigo also prefers to use the dipper.
You also must take great care NOT to add too much. It takes a very small amount, measured in a fraction of grains. I remember doing just that years ago and found I could take the BH factor up to 32+, and the projectiles shattered upon target impact! ........ so, we use a BH factor of 18, and we can actually cast a .22 caliber projectile for the .223's that will push right at 3,200 fps.
........ but we also "case harden" projectiles that are pushing close to FMJ FPS or better projectiles. How do we do it? Ma's explanation is "NOT IN MY STOVE OR KITCHEN...... EVER AGAIN!!" Solution? We have a smaller counter top type oven. We do all of our casting outside anway, so........ It's the perfect solution. No Darning Eggs required. LOL!
So.... we cast the caliber, lube it through the Swager the first time in the diameter of the caliber, but that first Swager is 1/1000th over the size of the slugged bore.
Next comes the Case Hardening, and you have to pay close attention to the projectiles during the process.
Either in one of the smaller, portable ovens, (or in Ma's oven the first time before she kicked me out) with the temperature at 215 degrees. Stand them all upright, side by side in a shallow tray.......... Now you watch to see when they begin to acquire a glossy sheen. Remove them immediately and let them cool naturally...... No water dumping.
Now you're going to put them through the bullet Swager again, but........ this time it's through a Companion Swager that's 1/1000th smaller in diameter, matching the original slugged bore dimension making sure to run plenty of lube into the Swager...... What you do not want to do is break the surface and destroy the case hardening you've accomplished.
Now, if they're to be hunting loads,......... the tricky part. That case hardening must be broken on just the flat tip of the projectiles. You can use a flat, semi-fine file, BUT..... the projectile MUST be filed perfectly flat and 90 degrees to the sidewall. If not....... your projectiles will not print a moa POI at any real range. Probably ok (maybe) out to 100 yards, but the further out, the worse the group with noses that aren't true. I prefer sand paper.
It's true that a BH factor above 12 won't allow the bullet to expand much, but you can sure boost that FPS factor up to, and equal to a FMJ.
Now.......... an' you ain' gunna like dis wun........ You want to reach the velocities in the reloading books? Yep. you guessed it. hBN ICPs...... and only fired through a Slurry Sealed bore. You've already seen the process, and making ICPs out of these is fast. Each jar can take an easy 50 to 80 at a time, depending on your tumbler/vibrator.
