Do it yourself recoil pad for a 12g

[DeanfromOregon]

I have an old Hi Standard riot gun I need to shorten the stock on and install a recoil pad. No black spray paint or velcro, just a blued shotgun with walnut stocks. Any tips, tricks or warnings I should heed before I break out the chop saw?

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[MountainBear]

get a decent vertical belt or larger disc sander. buy a recoil pad fitting jig from Brownells or Midway. Go slow, maybe buy two pads in case you screw one up on your first effort. Have fun!

 

[Certaindeaf]

Carpenter's saw (after verifying legal parameters) and a bastard file. Perhaps a draw or mill file to finish.

 

[Mark W.]

Wrap the stock right on the cut line (the side towards the receiver) with 3 layers of masking tape. Then make your cut as close to the edge of the tape as you can. With the butt stock removed you can place a whole sheet of 100 grit sand paper on a piece of Glass or otherwise super flat surface and draw the end of the stock across it to make the cut as flat as possible.

Now take and tape the new recoil pad in position on the stock. Using a 16d Nail and a hammer lightly tap through the screw holes to mark their position. Remove the recoil pad and pilot drill as straight as you can holes for the screws to hold the recoil pad on.

Now screw the recoil pad in place TIGHT. Using a rasp or if you have it a belt or disc sander shape the recoil pad down to almost the tape.

using a small hard wood sanding block with 100 grit paper wrapped around it working parallel to the cut line smooth and shape the recoil pad down to the tape being careful no to go through the layers of tape.

Once the 100 grit is done switch the block to 220 grit and sand down to the second layer of masking tape.

NOW STOP remove the pad and carefully remove the 220 grit scratched with 320 and your done.

replace the pad.

 

[DeanfromOregon]

Awesome. Thanks guys!

 

[Jamie6.5]

Another trick to protect the stock when sanding the pad's contours (after installation) is to cut the top and bottom out of an aluminum pop/beer can. Cut the remaining cylinder from top to bottom, and and you'll have a thin, flexible aluminum sheet. Tape it to the wood, just ahead of the pad. Using scissors, you can cut any angles necessary to duplicate the cut you made on the mounting face (butt).
It's thin enough to allow for close sanding of the pad, yet will still protect the wood from the sander during those brief (hopefully) instances when closely following the buttstock's contour.