DIY bluing or something similar

Stick · Dec 18, 2010

Me and a friend are building a couple AK74's and I'm looking for ideas on how to finish the receiver and barrel.
He's built several AK's and usually just uses some kind of bake on paint of some sort. It doesn't look bad but I'm kinda wanting a different look.
I was also wondering if powder coating would work or if it would end up being to thick on the parts.

gunluvver · Dec 18, 2010

I've used Brownell's Oxpho Blue cream on many complete refinishes of guns. It works best if you bead blast the surface and wipe it on. It comes out like a very dark parkerizing. Powder coating usually won't work, as it's like porcelain and will chip and also fill where you don't want it to.

Stick · Dec 18, 2010

gunluvver said:
I've used Brownell's Oxpho Blue cream on many complete refinishes of guns. It works best if you bead blast the surface and wipe it on. It comes out like a very dark parkerizing. Powder coating usually won't work, as it's like porcelain and will chip and also fill where you don't want it to.

That sounds like what I'm looking for, do you happen to have any before and after pics?

The B · Dec 18, 2010

parkerize! it's just as easy, and is how it should be done.

Swedish K · Dec 18, 2010

bkb0000 said:
parkerize! it's just as easy, and is how it should be done.

+1

Parking the parts is (IMO)the best way to go, even if you are going to do one of the bake on finishes as it gives a great surface to bond with and provide a corrosion resistant base. The only down side to parking the parts is that differing grades of steel will color slightly differently. Usually not a problem but I have seen parts that had been welded for repair and you could clearly see a different shade where the repairs had been made. Bottom line its a much easier and safer than bluing and provides a more robust coating than bluing.

Celtic Armory · Dec 18, 2010

I also agree with the parker for an AK.

gunluvver · Dec 18, 2010

Yes, parking IS the better way to go, but it ISN"T just as easy as what I do with the Oxpho Blue. You need tanks, chemicals, a heat source and a safe ventilated area to park. If the OP doesn't have these available to him he'll have to take it somewhere to have it done. OP didn't indicate this is what he wanted to do, so I suggested an easy way to do it at his kitchen table. I'll have to take some pics of guns I've refinished and post them.

The B · Dec 18, 2010

gunluvver said:
Yes, parking IS the better way to go, but it ISN"T just as easy as what I do with the Oxpho Blue. You need tanks, chemicals, a heat source and a safe ventilated area to park. If the OP doesn't have these available to him he'll have to take it somewhere to have it done. OP didn't indicate this is what he wanted to do, so I suggested an easy way to do it at his kitchen table. I'll have to take some pics of guns I've refinished and post them.

is there any bluing method that doesn't also require heat, tanks, and expensive, toxic chemicals?

cold blues are generally worthless, and especially on a field gun like an AK.. but i've not used the oxpho blue. i did check into it a while back, and decided i didn't buy their claims. have you used it on hard-use guns?

Stick · Dec 22, 2010

I'll look into both methods and kinda decide when I get to that point.
The parts kits came in yesterday so after christmas we'll start building

Redcap · Dec 22, 2010

bkb0000 said:
is there any bluing method that doesn't also require heat, tanks, and expensive, toxic chemicals?

cold blues are generally worthless, and especially on a field gun like an AK.. but i've not used the oxpho blue. i did check into it a while back, and decided i didn't buy their claims. have you used it on hard-use guns?

Not any good one.

Swedish K · Dec 22, 2010

Bottom line - I'd rather park than blue any day - yes you still need a heat source (camp stove works well) and you need stainless tanks so you aren't loosing most of your solution parking the tank instead of your parts but at least the solution isn't nearly as nasty as bluing and generally isn't nearly as hot so if you get it on you when finishing the parts you are less likely to get a burn (temp or chemical).