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The OP has a Dillon Square Deal, which only reloads pistol cartridges. Assuming he is using carbide dies, no case lube. Let's not confuse the poor lad.;)
OH no - not another can of worms!:eek:

I use One Shot as a case lube for 9mm. It most definitely makes a difference in force needed on the sizing die. My technique is two squirts into a 1 gallon plastic bag and then add about 100 cases into the bag. It then gets shaken up and rolled for about a minute. By squirting in the bag instead of on the brass, you're reducing the amount of lube inside the cases. You'll know if you're using too much if the cases feel exceptionally greasy.

Like many parts of this hobby, it's a personal preference. Give it a try to see if it makes a difference for you.
 
I do my reloading in two steps: Processing, followed by loading. If you wash the brass, process it (deprime, size, chamfer the primer pocket, etc) then do a final clean and polish it's just like reloading brand new brass, it's quick and you get a much better end result. No more having to tumble your loaded cartridges to get the case lube off. No more contamination issues of primers with case lube, and most importantly, it ends the complex of case lube, spilled powder and machine grease that easily clogs reloading machines and makes your life a nightmare.

+1 this^^
I just treat brass processing as phase 1. I get my brass stockpiles up to snuff all at once and then when I want to load some i have like new brass to work with. I really appreciate that wet cleaning eliminates that nasty dust.
 
I also use a Redding G-Rx full-length sizing die for my 40 (I compete mostly with 40 right now), so during the reloading process, the sizing stage always is pretty smooth. I can still tell when I have a case there or not, but I not cranking hard to get a piece sized. I just hear a plink when the primer drops out.

Nope, no One Shot or other case lube...
 
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Hey, all! Here's an update I'm really excited about. I bought a Lee depriming die and an RCBS hand-primer. I went through and sized 200 pieces through my GRX Redding full-length sizer, switched the die to the deprimer, and went to town. I deprimed all 200 cases and discovered I HATE my Lee breech lock press (C-shape) and how it spits spent primers all over the place. I gotta keep that PITA in mind as I evaluate this whole process.

Then I set up the RCBS hand primer and LOVED it!!!! The feel was great, the function was almost perfect, and it seated the primers to just below flush. My SDB was seating to just flush, which may have been causing some of my issues. I'll need to look into that.

So, now, when I load these 200 pieces the rest of the way I'll need to remove the primer system, and totally remove the sizing/depriming die. All 3 of those functions are unnecessary. I love the precision of hand-priming, but I think it only serves a purpose for my USPSA Open loads...at least right now.

Thumbs-WAYYY-UP for the RCBS hand-primer!!
 
Yup, their hand primer is possibly the best on the planet. I wore the first one out after 30 years and just bought a replacement. I haven't been using the new one yet, but I expect the same excellent results.
 
@CHLChris there is no need to remove the primer system. It will not interfere with the process even though there is already a primer in place. Just don't put any primers in it and no need to push the handle forward.
 
Hey, my experience with the RCBS hand-primer brings up a question. It has a different sized ram for large primers and small primers. I really think the ram in the SDB is for a larger primer, which would explain why primers only end up flush and never below flush, as I'm able to do with the hand primer.

Anybody know if I should have 2 different size rams for my SDB?
 
Most definitely!! Normally the machine comes with two primer slide assemblies. That would explain the sideways and upside down ones too. The cup and the punch are both specific to primer size. Mine are color-coded, not sure if all of them are. The large one in the picture is in the slide, the small one is my spare since that slide is in the machine.


WP_20170416_004.jpg
 
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Thanks for that photo, @Lilhigbee! I'm gonna have to check whether I've got the small brass or the large silver in there. Hmmm... Unfortunately, the fam is asleep and I can't go into the garage without making a bunch of noise so I'll check in the morning.
 
It is not how fast you get them done it is how good the reloads turn out. Quality over quantity it is like learnig to drive a stick shift trans. it takes time and practice, 250 rnds an hour is flying as compared to a single stage.
 
An update for the OP on my proccess. If it's handy for him, great, if not, and someone else learns something great. If none of the above, well everyone can suck it! ;)

Current proccess 9mm:

Decap and size on the progressive.

Tumble in a harbor freight rock polisher, upgraded with home made 4" pipe drum as the roller, with a "paddle" glued inside of the pipe.

Media is stainless steel, purchased online bulk. They look like tiny sharp seeds, as opposed to small cut bars. They do not get stuck in the flash hole, and clean the pocket (and rest of brass) extremely well.

Tumble proccess is as follows: I put some media in, maybe a half cup worth? Put brass in, a whole bunch, with several inches of open space in the tumbler. Add water all the way up covering the brass. Add a few drops of dawn advanced power liquid, ad a sprinkling of lemi-shine powder (half a teaspoon or less).

Tumble for a half hour to an hour.

Drain carefully so as not to dump media. Fill with water and drain several times.

Fill with just water and tumble again for another half hour to an hour.

Drain carefully so as not to dump media. Fill and drain a few times.

Dump the entire contents into a strainer setting over a plastic tub. Took a while to find a cheap strainer with tub that the media would fall thru, and keep the brass in the strainer. Walmart had a plastic strainer with tub in the cooking/homegoods section, works a charm, and was only like $5.

Hand mix the brass in the tub, get most of the media out.

Put the brass onto a cookie sheet (or 2, depending how much processed). THIS STEP ALSO REQUIRES A DOUBKE CHECK FOR MEDIA, although it will not stick in the primer pockets, being wet, some will be inside th brass depending how well you hand mix in the strainer.

A half hour to an hour on lowest heat setting dries out any remaining water.

I bag them up & give it a few sprays of Dillon case lube and shake up the bag. This isn't required, it's just to coat the brass helping to prevent oxidizing. Keeps them looking all shiny and "BRASS". Hardly enough to affect any further proccess of reloading, I'd think, as it's just a quick coating. I'd also imagine any other brand or home made lanolin/rubbing alcohol lube mix would do the same.

Clean, shiny, sized & decapped brass. :)

I do this not so much for the shiny, but for the clean brass not screwing up the rest of my reloading proccess.

Haven't counted, but I figure I proccess 3-400 9mm at a time using above system. While doing other things.

I decap / size a whole bunch at a time & have them boxed up ready for tumbling.

I tumble a bunch at a time as well, depending on days when I have a bunch of chores where I'll be in and out at home a bunch. Or if I'm also decaping a bunch etc.

Bag those up & they're set aside ready for loading.
 
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I go through about 8,000 rounds of pistol reloads per year because I am retired and go shooting with the other old retired people twice a week during nice weather and once a week if I feel brave and shoot in not as nice weather. There is no need to deprime then tumble. Even with Carbide pistol dies use case lube Spray type.
 
Most definitely!! Normally the machine comes with two primer slide assemblies. That would explain the sideways and upside down ones too. The cup and the punch are both specific to primer size. Mine are color-coded, not sure if all of them are. The large one in the picture is in the slide, the small one is my spare since that slide is in the machine.


View attachment 357237
Spend the time to set up and adjust / readjust the parts. after a while the adjustments become real fast and accurate ,again like learning to drive a stick shift car.
On a good day I have timed my self at 500 rounds per hour. that is hard! The machine is adjusted and running good. 300 to 400 is cruising and pleasant.
 
I go through about 8,000 rounds of pistol reloads per year because I am retired and go shooting with the other old retired people twice a week during nice weather and once a week if I feel brave and shoot in not as nice weather. There is no need to deprime then tumble. Even with Carbide pistol dies use case lube Spray type.

Oh I absolutely agree that there is no need! It just works for me is all.
 
Turn the phone off. <<< THAT ! when reloading u have one job, to load things that go bang,safely.

don't slam the primer in but do lean into the handle a bit to make sure they seat well.I press firmlly and give it a 2 count...ok, a fast 2 count.

Not trying to be mean,but from the sounds of your lack of QC, you're lucky any of the ammo fit the gun. Speed will come with using the machine,but right now ,ignore rounds per hour, and I agree with another post, Dillon's rph for their machines are numbers most us cannot do, I sure can't
 

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