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Yeah. Just drilling a hole and plugging one in is a common mod on the B.. The C has a grease groove on the other side of the pin that the B doesn't, but for a hobbyist reloader I really don't see that as all that big of a deal.well I can't answer that as I didn't know what the difference was but if I can pick a 550 B for $300 i'll make due without the changes. In regards to zerk fittings that is probably something I'm capable of machining into the machine myself.
I've been flogging a 550B for over 25 years. Near as I can figure somewhere North of 200,000 rds with VERY few problems, none of which would have been different with more lube on the link pins! If you can get a decent deal on a 550B do it.well I can't answer that as I didn't know what the difference was but if I can pick a 550 B for $300 i'll make due without the changes. In regards to zerk fittings that is probably something I'm capable of machining into the machine myself.
Disassemble it once a year and grease it. That is what Dillon advised me. I have the older one with no greaseYeah. Just drilling a hole and plugging one in is a common mod on the B.. The C has a grease groove on the other side of the pin that the B doesn't, but for a hobbyist reloader I really don't see that as all that big of a deal.
So long as the B can do the calibers you need and you can get by without the other little tweaks integrated into the C... I mean... the B is still a real solid loader and been churning out smoke makers for folks for years without complaint. KWIM(?)
That's what I'm talking about and looking forward to. Many of the components that have failed on Lee presses over the years are also replaced at no charge but I'm finding that I prefer quality over the cheaper deal . I've come to find that comparing Dillon or Hornady to Lee is like comparing Snap on to Harbor freight. There's always going to be the guy that swears the cheaper stuff is just as good of quality but experience has showed me that they are not equals. I do believe I will also invest in a square deal just for loading 9&10 mm pistol cartridgesDisassemble it once a year and grease it. That is what Dillon advised me. I have the older one with no grease
zerk fittings. I have broken so many parts on my RL 550 some more than once. Always replaced it at no cost.
Had the press completely rebuilt by Dillon for FREE!
I have helped friends get going with their 550 presses and they are great presses!I do believe I will also invest in a square deal just for loading 9&10 mm pistol cartridges
I think the easiest way to tell is to take a look at the upper pivot pin. The C has a zerk fitting on the end and the B doesn't.
The C is an upgrade to the B and I believe they do still sell an upgrade kit. If you're buying used though, I can't imagine it would be cost effective to buy a used B and then pay for an upgrade kit. The upper frame body is also different so... why buy a B only to have to pay to swap out the main
I'd second this. As a current owner of two 550 presses, and a 650 with the case feeder, and former owner of a square B, I've had experience with all 3 platforms.I have helped friends get going with their 550 presses and they are great presses!
Instead of getting dedicated Square B presses for 9mm and 10mm I would take that money and upgrade to a 650XL or 750XL with auto-index, an extra station and a case feeder. The higher productivity of a case feeder will more than make up for the caliber swap over time.
I have owned my 650XL for 30+ years now. I REALLY went back and forth between the 550 and 650 when I bought the 650. I have never regretted it for a second. I load all of my ammo on my 650, a dozen different cartridges. Both hand gun and rifle cartridges. Swapping between large and small primers takes the most time but after 30+ years it only takes me about 5 minutes to swap primer sizes these days.
I would stick with the 550 even for pistol (unless you want to go 650/750) Being able to use standard dies is a plus. Example--my 9mm setup. Sizer is a EGW U die. Powder drop/expander is Dillon. Seater is Redding micrometer and crimp is a Lee factory crimp die. I also have a Uniquetek micrometer on the powder bar.I do believe I will also invest in a square deal just for loading 9&10 mm pistol cartridges
I'm curious? What parts do you break on a 550?Disassemble it once a year and grease it. That is what Dillon advised me. I have the older one with no grease
zerk fittings. I have broken so many parts on my RL 550 some more than once. Always replaced it at no cost.
Had the press completely rebuilt by Dillon for FREE!
The crank at the bottom broke at least twice. Link arm broke once. Primer system woreI'm curious? What parts do you break on a 550?
You probably could've duct taped that bad boy and still be making rounds.
Actually, I did make quite a few rounds without the duct tape, but I was puzzled why my overall length suddenly became erratic. Finally figured out why. (Checking the frame for cracks was not the first place I looked..)You probably could've duct taped that bad boy and still be making rounds.