Depends on what you are loading but generally a 3-piece die set with a sizing/depriming die, seating die, and crimp die is best for a 4 station progressive. Find sets that were made specifically for a progressive as they have more bell on the mouth to allow for more misalignment of the case. I had 2 3-die sets and had to buy a lee factory crimp die for both to use in my 550...one for rifle and one for pistol. I have two sets of dillon dies and have to say they are pretty nice dies. My redding dies are also not bad but lack a couple of features the dillons do. The lee factory crimp dies lack the feel/quality of the other two brands but they have been just plain working goodI just purchased a used 550b with some of the parts for .223 reloading and I have searched and found that alot of loaders use lee dies in there dillons. My question is do you use the 2 piece or 3 piece sets and why?
He nailed it these are the same reason's I use the Lee dies.. He even worded way better then me maybe we should call you "Deadshot2 wordsmith"I use Lee Dies for a couple of reasons. First of all, the de-capping pin in a Lee sizing die is almost indestructible. Rather than bend or break the pin, the rod is forced up through the locking collet should you try and size/deprime a berdan primed case. Redding and RCBS dies will allow the pin to bend or break, shutting down the operation totally. With the Lee, loosen the collet, push the rod/pin assy back down, and retighten. Problem solved.
For the seating die, I like the Lee's floating seater plug. Similar to those in the high-end competition dies. The Bullets start into the case straghter and my finished rounds have very little run-out. I have retired my RCBS seater die permanently as it's too hard to adjust and the finished rounds had far greater run-out.
Lastly, I like to crimp all my ammo as a separate operation. The Lee Factory Crimp Die is great for this. On a progressive press it's just a matter of putting the die in the last station and crimping to the desired level. Light to just push the case back against the bullet or a little more to push the case mouth into the cannelure so the bullet isn't as prone to being jambed back in the case if caught on the feed ramp of an AR.
When loading .223 there is NO flaring of the case mouth. Ditto for other bottle-necked rifle calibers. The sizing die forms the case neck on the up-stroke and then the expander ball expands the neck to approximately .002" less than the bullet diameter when pulled from the die. No flare or "bell" is created. If your bullets, especially flat based, are difficult to get started it will be necessary to chamfer the case mouth after sizing. Boat tailed bullets sit in the case mouth real well at the start of the seating process and I don't find chamfering necessary.I have a question for you, where is the flaring of the case mouth supposed to happen?
I found the hornady one shot works good with pistol cases but not so hot on the rifle cases. Been using the Dillon lube but it's just Isopropyl Alcohol and Lanolin and could be made cheaper by yourself. Works good but have to wipe the shoulders off before sizing and wipe the whole case down afterwards. Kind of stickywhat do you guys think of the hornady one-shot case lube? or should i use something else.
Another vote here for the dillon lube. I put a bunch of cases in a gallon sized zip lock bag, spray some lube in, seal the bag, and then tumble by hand until the lube has distributed itself to all cases in an even film. I then dump them out on a cooking pan to dry. All that's needed is a thin film of the lube and using this method I have had ZERO stuck cases or dented shoulders.I found the hornady one shot works good with pistol cases but not so hot on the rifle cases. Been using the Dillon lube but it's just Isopropyl Alcohol and Lanolin and could be made cheaper by yourself. Works good but have to wipe the shoulders off before sizing and wipe the whole case down afterwards. Kind of sticky
I think I understand the concept but hardly believe what I'm reading. That would mean you'd have to have a neck sizer to use the set safely. That made the Pacesetter dies more attractive, though there was another review that said you have to send your decapping pin in if you want a replacement. I've got between 800-1200 once fired LC brass from the 90's. I'm wondering if a universal decapper and a source of spare pins might just be safer to avoid any frustration when I do have time to load?A few things to note. Match dies do not typically resize the necks as tight as a standard die (or a small base die as typically used for a semi-automatic rifle) and I verified this with a couple test rounds in one of my AR's. The bullet hit the feed ramp and wound up inside the case (as expected, which resulted in a jam). I would not use these for use in anything besides a bolt action rifle (unless you load them one at a time).
Load sounds good to me but the velocity seems high for a non max load. Not around my manual to look. Fire away!!! I have a bunch loaded at 25.5g of h335 I think that haven't been testedSo I have completed my first 40 rounds and measured a bazzilion times and cut once and remeasured case size / powder charge / O.A.L and I am still kinda scared to shoot them. Is that NORMAL? I used cci sm.r.p 400 / h335 @ 24.6gr and Hornady 55gr bullets. should give me 3000fps. Everything looks good, but still nervous.
Typo 22.6gr of h335