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I have a side hobby of mine, it's just a hobby, but I like to study massacre's, not necessarily with firearms, but events that lead up to massive tragedies with dozens killed and even more injured. Usually I find there is a whole series of factors prior to the incident taking place that leads up to a massive loss of life. Some of the one's I've studied was the catwalk collapse in Kansas City circa 1984 I think, Flight 191 in Chicago in the late 70's, actually I like studying a lot of DC-10 tragedies because I like to make fun of the airplane and call it the "Death Cruiser - 10". A classic one is the big top circus fire in Connecticut in 1945, also known as "The days the clowns cried". I love high speed rail and would love to see this country implement, but train disasters, especially recent ones, are always worthy of looking over as to what went wrong. We had a massive train crash as recently as 20 years ago in the Big Bayou by the Sunset Limited I believe it was in Mississippi, but the most interesting one I found was the one that happened in Germany in 1998, the Eschede Train disaster.

Anyways, looks like I have a new disaster to study up on, this Brazillian Night Club fire, this is the biggest loss of life I've heard about at a night club since atleast the Bali Bombings in Indonesia.

The Station club fire which happened the year I graduated highschool (2003), killed exactly 100 people, has one of the most eerie pieces of footage by a local television crew, of the entire fire from when it started to the camera man watching people try to stampede and trample each other outside the narrow exit with thick toxic smoke pouring out over everyone's heads.

The Unedited Full Rhode Island Station Nightclub Fire 2 20 03 - YouTube

This is a long video, but the fire quickly gets out of control and the whole thing is a blazing inferno within 5 minutes of the fire starting. If you look closely at one part in the video you can see a man running out of the inferno with his clothes set ablaze.

Night Club fire's are a venue for massive losses of life. In part because a lot of the times there is highly flammable material across the walls and ceiling of the entire night club, and often the bouncers guard the exit doors to make sure no one leaves without paying their tab, or the exit doors are locked because of this. Narrow exit's also can lead to stampede's in which people are crushed to death by the weight of enormous crowds pushing individual people in front of them, or the person falling down and everyone walking on top of them.

Also I don't know if any of you believe in ghosts, but I love good ghost stories, and some of the massacre's there is sightings of ghosts shortly after the massacre, Flight 191 in particular has some interesting ghost stories and Eastern Airlines Flight 401 in the Florida everglades has a lot of good ghost stories.
 
I have a side hobby of mine, it's just a hobby, but I like to study massacre's, not necessarily with firearms, but events that lead up to massive tragedies with dozens killed and even more injured. Usually I find there is a whole series of factors prior to the incident taking place that leads up to a massive loss of life. Some of the one's I've studied was the catwalk collapse in Kansas City circa 1984 I think, Flight 191 in Chicago in the late 70's, actually I like studying a lot of DC-10 tragedies because I like to make fun of the airplane and call it the "Death Cruiser - 10". A classic one is the big top circus fire in Connecticut in 1945, also known as "The days the clowns cried". I love high speed rail and would love to see this country implement, but train disasters, especially recent ones, are always worthy of looking over as to what went wrong. We had a massive train crash as recently as 20 years ago in the Big Bayou by the Sunset Limited I believe it was in Mississippi, but the most interesting one I found was the one that happened in Germany in 1998, the Eschede Train disaster.

Anyways, looks like I have a new disaster to study up on, this Brazillian Night Club fire, this is the biggest loss of life I've heard about at a night club since atleast the Bali Bombings in Indonesia.

The Station club fire which happened the year I graduated highschool (2003), killed exactly 100 people, has one of the most eerie pieces of footage by a local television crew, of the entire fire from when it started to the camera man watching people try to stampede and trample each other outside the narrow exit with thick toxic smoke pouring out over everyone's heads.

The Unedited Full Rhode Island Station Nightclub Fire 2 20 03 - YouTube

This is a long video, but the fire quickly gets out of control and the whole thing is a blazing inferno within 5 minutes of the fire starting. If you look closely at one part in the video you can see a man running out of the inferno with his clothes set ablaze.

Night Club fire's are a venue for massive losses of life. In part because a lot of the times there is highly flammable material across the walls and ceiling of the entire night club, and often the bouncers guard the exit doors to make sure no one leaves without paying their tab, or the exit doors are locked because of this. Narrow exit's also can lead to stampede's in which people are crushed to death by the weight of enormous crowds pushing individual people in front of them, or the person falling down and everyone walking on top of them.

Also I don't know if any of you believe in ghosts, but I love good ghost stories, and some of the massacre's there is sightings of ghosts shortly after the massacre, Flight 191 in particular has some interesting ghost stories and Eastern Airlines Flight 401 in the Florida everglades has a lot of good ghost stories.

That video will give you nightmares and should probably be avoided by the squeamish. The only good thing about the tragedy is that it gave me another excuse to give up going to concerts altogether (the other excuses were too many drunks, druggies, and meatheads with neck tattoos)

A few months back I stumbled onto a site called Findadeath that reported on the deaths of the famous and the infamous. One of the topics in their forum was the Station Fire, and forum members spent months posting interviews, pictures, and various reports. They analyzed the video and were even able to identify almost everyone on video that night, and they also posted links to various recreations and similations of what happened inside during the fire. For those who are interested here is the link.

<broken link removed>
 
I got up this morning and the first thing I did was take a leak, then I went to the firewood pile and grabbed two medium sized pieces of Doug Fir, a couple small sticks for kindling and a shorter piece of fir. I put the short piece on the left side of the woodstove chamber to lift one side of the wood for good air circulation, put the larger triangle shaped piece of fir in back with the kindling in front of it and the other rectangular shaped piece of fir in the very front angled towards the back and leaning against the triangle shaped piece to shoot the flame towards the back of the stove for efficiency (this stove updrafts from the front, above the door). When you do this make sure you put a short piece of kindling between the two fir pieces so the oxygen and flames can flow between them.

I used last nights frozen food box, a paper plate and a piece of mail for the firestarter, it's best to add this as you are building the firewood stack instead of shoving in under afterward. I lit it with a blue Bic lighter and propped the door open bout a half inch to induce a oxygen circulating vortex with the door opening also creating a venturi effect. After the paper and kindling burned down the fire still wasn't going good enough so I added a short piece of kindling under the wood pile (making sure one side was up off the ashes to aid air circulation) and that got it going almost immediately.

I'm burning Doug and Noble fir mostly (trees that blew down in a windstorm a couple years back) but I have four cords of Doug fir and Hemlock that are seasoned and ready to go when this facecord of older wood is used up. I hear Hemlock is great for starting fires. I also have two cords of White Oak that's been seasoning for two years, I use that exclusively for overnight use on really cold nights so the house isn't so cold in the morning , the stove is always still warm and there are always coals still hot which makes starting the fire easy and the already warmish stove comes up to it's efficiency range (250-550 f) very quickly which I really appreciate on days when it's still below freezing outside. I used one of those fabric covered carports that you buy at Bi-Mart, turned it sideways and framed in the three outside walls and the two partition walls, then I lined with pig wire so the wood doesn't try to make it's escape and ruining the stack. Each bay holds four cords but I alternate the bays so it rarely has more than six cords at the start of winter. That gives me three bays that I can back the truck into to load, unload and no wood is ever hidden behind another, different species or unseasoned stack. Having this much room is what allows me to stack a season (or two) ahead. Since I now burn slightly over two cords yearly I got got lots of space. It sounds excessive but I built it when I was burning four cords yearly.

I like to cut wood at least a year before I'll use it so it seasons for two summers and is guaranteed to have a low moisture content which burns more efficiently (more heat instead of smoke). Between that and buying that thermometer which enables me keep the stove in it's happy temperature zone I now burn a bit over half the wood that I did just a few years back. Adding 6" insulation bats when I reroofed didn't hurt.. With the efficient burn I only have to tear down the stovepipe and chimney to clean it once a year in the summer (I hated having to do that during the rainy winter) and I no longer have low hanging smoke outside gagging myself and the neighbors.

Now I'd like to change the discussion to my 4X4 truck. It's a 2000 S-10 ZR2 with the full sized truck running gear. I bought it from a salvage yard and replaced the bed and front end. I painted it black and the interior tan because like the body I had mixed colored parts due to damage during the accident. It's been a real good truck and isn't tippy even with the lift which is good because unlike others who like acceleration I get my kicks from the precise and measured inputs that enable fast cornering without upsetting the balance. Besides timing it's mostly about slowly and evenly weighing and unweighing the outside springs so the vehicle never gets sharp changes in attitude which causes tires to lose grip and vehicles to skid off the road forward or backward. Many front engined RWD and most FWD vehicles will understeer and go straight off the road, although my old RX7s would usually oversteer, swap ends and go off backwards.

This truck started developing overheating problems when I climbed into the hills to go shooting so I checked it out and found a leak in the water pump. After swapping that out it still got warm so I called a Chevy dealership, seems the anti-freeze/coolant hardens and blocks passages when it dilutes below a certain point. I didn't know this when I rebuilt the truck so I just topped it off with plain water knowing that I would replace it before winter. So anyway I flushed it, then I flushed it again, a couple more times and even though my heater was clogged it seemed to hold temperature so after a few weeks of local shakedown trips where everything seemed fine I drove it to Spokane one labor day. On the way back the temp gauge spiked and then went back to normal (it spiked and stopped giving accurate readings, awesome timing) the truck would overheat without me knowing it would get hot w no warning and we had to pull over often to cool it down and fill the radiator. Pulling the cap when there was nothing but steam inside ruined the cap gasket at some point which made it lose water even faster. We would stop, fill up everything that would hold water and we nursed it home, but at some point I refilled it before it cooled down enough and cracked ether the block or the head and it won't pass DEQ anymore because that damed computer knows (and tells) all.

So it sits out in the yard providing a place for the mice to live, and poop. I recently cleared out a bay in the pole barn to give me a place to pull the motor......

Geez JimmyZZZZZZZZZZ how do you do this? I wanted to post several paragraphs about my search for a better home entertainment system and possibly several more about my pets but I'm done. Sorry if that disappoints all of you I'm sure you are all extremely interested in every aspect of my life and beliefs, but I just can't type on this danged thing any longer. Possibly the trick is to keep this window open for a few days and add five or six paragraphs several times a day throughout that period.

Maybe I'll just post my family vacation pictures, pictures of my grass growing in after the blackberry thicket removal and grading, that would be easier. Scintillating stuff I'm sure. A picture is worth a trillion words as they say.

Take care Jimmy. I'll be seeing you on the board. Enjoy rereading your posts.
 
I got up this morning and the first thing I did was take a leak, then I went to the firewood pile and grabbed two medium sized pieces of Doug Fir, a couple small sticks for kindling and a shorter piece of fir. I put the short piece on the left side of the woodstove chamber to lift one side of the wood for good air circulation, put the larger triangle shaped piece of fir in back with the kindling in front of it and the other rectangular shaped piece of fir in the very front angled towards the back and leaning against the triangle shaped piece to shoot the flame towards the back of the stove for efficiency (this stove updrafts from the front, above the door). When you do this make sure you put a short piece of kindling between the two fir pieces so the oxygen and flames can flow between them.

I used last nights frozen food box, a paper plate and a piece of mail for the firestarter, it's best to add this as you are building the firewood stack instead of shoving in under afterward. I lit it with a blue Bic lighter and propped the door open bout a half inch to induce a oxygen circulating vortex with the door opening also creating a venturi effect. After the paper and kindling burned down the fire still wasn't going good enough so I added a short piece of kindling under the wood pile (making sure one side was up off the ashes to aid air circulation) and that got it going almost immediately.

I'm burning Doug and Noble fir mostly (trees that blew down in a windstorm a couple years back) but I have four cords of Doug fir and Hemlock that are seasoned and ready to go when this facecord of older wood is used up. I hear Hemlock is great for starting fires. I also have two cords of White Oak that's been seasoning for two years, I use that exclusively for overnight use on really cold nights so the house isn't so cold in the morning , the stove is always still warm and there are always coals still hot which makes starting the fire easy and the already warmish stove comes up to it's efficiency range (250-550 f) very quickly which I really appreciate on days when it's still below freezing outside. I used one of those fabric covered carports that you buy at Bi-Mart, turned it sideways and framed in the three outside walls and the two partition walls, then I lined with pig wire so the wood doesn't try to make it's escape and ruining the stack. Each bay holds four cords but I alternate the bays so it rarely has more than six cords at the start of winter. That gives me three bays that I can back the truck into to load, unload and no wood is ever hidden behind another, different species or unseasoned stack. Having this much room is what allows me to stack a season (or two) ahead. Since I now burn slightly over two cords yearly I got got lots of space. It sounds excessive but I built it when I was burning four cords yearly.

I like to cut wood at least a year before I'll use it so it seasons for two summers and is guaranteed to have a low moisture content which burns more efficiently (more heat instead of smoke). Between that and buying that thermometer which enables me keep the stove in it's happy temperature zone I now burn a bit over half the wood that I did just a few years back. Adding 6" insulation bats when I reroofed didn't hurt.. With the efficient burn I only have to tear down the stovepipe and chimney to clean it once a year in the summer (I hated having to do that during the rainy winter) and I no longer have low hanging smoke outside gagging myself and the neighbors.

Now I'd like to change the discussion to my 4X4 truck. It's a 2000 S-10 ZR2 with the full sized truck running gear. I bought it from a salvage yard and replaced the bed and front end. I painted it black and the interior tan because like the body I had mixed colored parts due to damage during the accident. It's been a real good truck and isn't tippy even with the lift which is good because unlike others who like acceleration I get my kicks from the precise and measured inputs that enable fast cornering without upsetting the balance. Besides timing it's mostly about slowly and evenly weighing and unweighing the outside springs so the vehicle never gets sharp changes in attitude which causes tires to lose grip and vehicles to skid off the road forward or backward. Many front engined RWD and most FWD vehicles will understeer and go straight off the road, although my old RX7s would usually oversteer, swap ends and go off backwards.

This truck started developing overheating problems when I climbed into the hills to go shooting so I checked it out and found a leak in the water pump. After swapping that out it still got warm so I called a Chevy dealership, seems the anti-freeze/coolant hardens and blocks passages when it dilutes below a certain point. I didn't know this when I rebuilt the truck so I just topped it off with plain water knowing that I would replace it before winter. So anyway I flushed it, then I flushed it again, a couple more times and even though my heater was clogged it seemed to hold temperature so after a few weeks of local shakedown trips where everything seemed fine I drove it to Spokane one labor day. On the way back the temp gauge spiked and then went back to normal (it spiked and stopped giving accurate readings, awesome timing) the truck would overheat without me knowing it would get hot w no warning and we had to pull over often to cool it down and fill the radiator. Pulling the cap when there was nothing but steam inside ruined the cap gasket at some point which made it lose water even faster. We would stop, fill up everything that would hold water and we nursed it home, but at some point I refilled it before it cooled down enough and cracked ether the block or the head and it won't pass DEQ anymore because that damed computer knows (and tells) all.

So it sits out in the yard providing a place for the mice to live, and poop. I recently cleared out a bay in the pole barn to give me a place to pull the motor......

Geez JimmyZZZZZZZZZZ how do you do this? I wanted to post several paragraphs about my search for a better home entertainment system and possibly several more about my pets but I'm done. Sorry if that disappoints all of you I'm sure you are all extremely interested in every aspect of my life and beliefs, but I just can't type on this danged thing any longer. Possibly the trick is to keep this window open for a few days and add five or six paragraphs several times a day throughout that period.

Maybe I'll just post my family vacation pictures, pictures of my grass growing in after the blackberry thicket removal and grading, that would be easier. Scintillating stuff I'm sure. A picture is worth a trillion words as they say.

Take care Jimmy. I'll be seeing you on the board. Enjoy rereading your posts.

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