Depriming brass without a press.

[RVTECH]

"my next question is what's a cheap way to wash the brass?"

Find a heavy but porous fabric bag. Throw the brass in it, tie off the bag and throw it in the washer with jeans or heavy clothing. It's not perfect but works better than you might expect and its free.

 

[blackadder]

Have you ever tried the Lee 4-turret press? Seems like a nice step up from the single press for not a whole lot more money.

Here's a video I found on it while doing some research:

Huge fan of my 4 hole turret press. Obviously not as fast as a progressive, but still much less time consuming that a single stage esp if you have the auto disk. That being said, I got the little $26 press (guessing that is the little C press talked about) from Lee to do most of my 7mm, 308, and the resizing part of .223. That press with dies for your cal is by far the cheapest setup out there for reloading outside of the Lee loaders. Not at all a bad place to start, and you can go from there as finances permit. You will of course need a way to measure powder and cartridge length so a scale and calipers need to be on your list as well. I have the ones below or very similar (bought mine a while ago).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012...&dpID=41AKYOLyaDL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002...&dpID=51VhLNNwsKL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

 

[Capn Jack]

Is there a way to deprime brass without a press? I want to start building up my tools for reloading but can't afford a press right now for depriming.

Just thought I'd throw this out there for grins.

To remove .30 Berdan Primers.. You need a bowl of water, some 6" lengths of 1/4" wooden dowel, a hammer and a piece of 2x4 with a 1/4" hole through the wide side. Lay the 2x4 on a hard surface. Fill a case 2/3" full of water and align it over the hole. insert a dowel into the case and smack it with the hammer.

As the water cannot compress it will blow the used primer out.
This is messy, but it works. OOPS! Almost forgot..Wear safety Glasses..

 

[rick benjamin]

Regarding your comment on resizing new brass - what method or tool would you recommend that would fit in the budget of the tool lineups being discussed here?

From Midway's site, Remington new 9mm brass:

"Bulk brass should be full-length sized, trimmed and chamfered before loading.
Due to the manufacturing process and/or shipping, case mouths may not be perfectly round. To ensure a round case mouth, cases must be sized (or have the expander ball of the sizing die run through case neck) and deburred/Chamfered (Lee tool $4, Wilson tool $16) prior to loading."

 

[Capn Jack]

Dang! I always thought that it was S.O.P. to size and de-bur new brass. Some I've gotten looked like it had been drug into town behind the delivery truck.

Thank you Mr. Potterfield for your wisdom.

 

[rick benjamin]

To all who aspire to reloading
Measure twice, even three times
Then check yet again
For once the bullet seats, there is only one who knew what came before
Then into the breech to discover the right or wrong of your labors.
A bullet flying true to the target,
or

 

[U201491]

Interesting. Maybe one of the folks here will know if there is a way to use new brass, even with this tool. Maybe there is another component you can get to manually perform the task to size the brass, yet still use this to load?

Most new brass comes in under the specs and is "figuratively" sloppy the first loading and generally forms better on the first firing. Then all you will generally need to do unless changing weapons is neck sizing and occasional neck length trim for the remaining life of the brass.

New brass is seldom a problem.

 

[Benchrest]

firing. Then all you will generally need to do unless changing weapons is neck sizing and occasional neck length trim for the remaining life of the brass.

New brass is seldom a problem.

Can I assume you're referring to bolt guns, and not auto loaders?

Very different potentials between the two if the bolt doesn't close.

And for the record, I only neck size my bolt brass

 

[U201491]

Can I assume you're referring to bolt guns, and not auto loaders?

Very different potentials between the two if the bolt doesn't close.

And for the record, I only neck size my bolt brass

First loads in new brass should be no problem even with a semi-auto. After that then why would someone use a lee loader for a semi auto ? Another factor is how heavy of loads a person uses and how much the brass stretches. The variable are endless.
On my own rifles, I even matched my dies to the rifle, but that is extreme for most folks. Lots of sulfur casts and polishing and measuring. The end result is well worth the trouble if accuracy is the final goal.
I dealt mostly with bolt rifles, and not semi autos anyway.

 

[Benchrest]

First loads in new brass should be no problem even with a semi-auto. After that then why would someone use a lee loader for a semi auto ? Another factor is how heavy of loads a person uses and how much the brass stretches. The variable are endless.
On my own rifles, I even matched my dies to the rifle, but that is extreme for most folks. Lots of sulfur casts and polishing and measuring. The end result is well worth the trouble if accuracy is the final goal.
I dealt mostly with bolt rifles, and not semi autos anyway.

Agreed - Just stressing the importance of FL sizing vs. neck for use in an auto.

 

[Capn Jack]

I've found that chamber pressure has a lot to do with with how much your brass needs sizing, trimming, etc. Of my rifles, AR's, the 5.56 stretches the most and the .458S barely stretches at
all. I full length resize every piece of brass, check for length and after loading, every cartridge goes through a chamber die. Some say, I'm anal about my loading, but a stuck case can ruin your day and maybe your life.

 

[BAMCIS]

http://harveydeprimer.com
Made in lebanon oregon.

That's what i'm looking for but man. Don't want to spend 50 bucks plus shipping for it.

I bought one of these with reservations a couple of years ago. After using it a couple of times I bought another. The nice thing is you're not tied to the reloading bench.

If it's not to hot, in the summertime the wife and I will sometimes sit on the patio sharing a bottle of wine and deprime cases. This is the only part of the reloading process where ANY alcohol is consumed. It's amazing how fast the process goes. Especially with both of us depriming cases.

However, to be fair I have a single stage press with a universal decapper and it's much faster. But as alluded to above, the downside to that is I have to be at my bench.

 

[ma96782]

I have been reading a bit on reloading so my next question is what's a cheap way to wash the brass? i don't need to wash more than 50-100 cases at a time.

Hot soapy water.

BTW, it doesn't have to glint in the sun to be clean enough to reload. If you want a bit of glint, add vinegar or Lemi-Shine to the hot soapy water.

________

I only wash my bottle neck rifle brass.

For my straight walled pistol cases (like .357 mag, 45ACP, 9mm, etc...) just go with carbide dies. It saves me time and effort for very little money vs. using the reg. steel dies. Not to mention....What happens IF you ever scratch your dies.

Aloha, Mark

 

[ma96782]

If I may offer this advice to first time reloaders.....
Note: some links may not work

>KNOW THAT: Handloading comes with some RISK.

An individual needs to gauge his or her own RISK TOLERANCE LEVEL to each situation in their life.

What's acceptable to ME........may not be, to someone else.

The Manual writers/publishers and editors, decide what's their safety margin and each will have their own threshold for safety. Load data between various manuals will vary.

>KNOW THAT: Handloading is PART EXPERIMENTATION.

Each manual contains many WARNINGS.

One popular warning, is against making "any substitution" of components, as it may be dangerous.

Try reading this subject: How do changing various components affect chamber pressure and velocity?
<broken link removed>

Then..........from SPEER..........

IMPORTANT NOTE: Reloading data published by SPEER are for SPEER bullets. Many of our bullets are of unique construction; there is no such thing as "generic loading data" any more. Other bullet makes may produce significantly different pressures and velocities. We make no warranty that our published loads are safe with another make of bullet. You, the reloader, bear the ultimate responsibility for knowing your firearm, loading equipment, and techniques.

So, what do you do, if you don't have the exact re-loading components as mention in the book?

IF you have a low risk tolerance level......perhaps, you'll wait until you have the exact components?

But, doing that isn't always practical.

For ME………..I'd take into consideration my RISK TOLERANCE LEVEL and maybe EXPERIMENT a little or not.

I'd search my available resources and various internet web sites. I'd attempt to figure out a SAFE (acceptable to ME) plan of action, using the available data. And/or perhaps, I might even contact the manufacturer.

ALWAYS REMEMBERING TO: Start low and work your way up.

>LASTLY……..KNOW THAT: YMWV.

Good re-loaders will not just "pick one" from the book or reproduce someone else's load and expect to see the exact same results. Conditions, equipment, components, lot#s and specs, can vary.
YMWV.

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WARNING: My way of doing things may not be suitable to some of the other folks out there........so, take it for what it's worth.......this is/was, only my advice, which you got for FREE, so it's only worth that much (if anything at all).
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Aloha, Mark

PART 2

As a "first press," IMHO get a bench mounted single station press. LEARN the techniques and "problem solving" of re-loading. Later, IF/WHEN, you want more production......consider a progressive press.
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Forgive me for saying and please, "SOME OF YOU OUT THERE," don't take offense.

But, for some folks it's best that they: "Learn to crawl before you walk, learn to walk before you run, learn to run before you drive or fly."

Some, are smart enough to start with a progressive press and be happy. Some, come running to this forum, asking for help with their progressive press problems. Maybe, IF they had learned on a single station press, they would KNOW HOW to fix the problem. And, I'm not saying that it's BAD TO ASK for help. It's just that, "YOU GOT TO KNOW YOUR LIMITATIONS."
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The BUY LIST………
Your list should be individual to you. Buy the equipment needed to accomplish the job, at a price that YOU can afford. More than likely, there will be some amount of compromise involved.
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Say, you're re-loading military 5.56mm brass cases for your AR with a single station press........consider your choice(s) for:

A re-loading manual (or several manuals).
A Press.
F/L Sizer Two Die set (or 3 die set).
Shell holder.
A way to clean dirty cases (liquid cleaner or tumbler/vibratory machine w/ media or a wipe down w/rag).
A way to de-prime military cases (regular die or universal de-capper or hammer and anvil method).
A way to de-crimp military cases (swage or ream).
A way to prime cases (on press or off press).
A way to lube cases (what lube and applied w/fingers or pad & lube or spray lube).
A way to test your re-sized cases (case gauge or actual rifle chamber).
Caliper (though, not absolutely needed if you use a case gauge).
A way to trim cases (hand powered or motorized).
A case de-bur/chamfer tool, if your trimmer didn't do it all in one pass.
A way to measure and dispense powder (dippers or disk measure or hopper/dispenser).
A way to weigh the powder (electronic or balance beam scale)

Powder.
Primers.
Bullets.
And cartridge cases.

I feel that these basic tools and components will do, for simple ammunition production.

Note that: The list above can be shortened or lengthened.

Remember, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

There are many other tools that one can purchase to do other specific jobs. It's up to YOU to choose which tools you need and which tools you want. Some tools are there to make a job simpler and some are there to hopefully make you "better" ammunition..........though, was the purchase absolutely necessary?

Choose wisely.
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IF you're looking to go cheap (not a bad "cheap")..........IMHO, consider, "LEE."

For dies.......use any brand (from a major mfn) that you like. They are basically, all of high quality. The differences are in the, "features and small parts."

LEE makes good dies (and they give you a bonus: a shell holder and powder dipper w/load data chart).

When re-loading bottle neck cases (.223/5.56mm) to be used in a semi auto, IMHO, buy the FULL LENGTH re-sizer, two die set. Generally, you don't need a SB die set (unless you run into trouble). IF, you want the LEE FCD they also have a three die set that includes it, for a little extra.

When re-loading for straight walled pistol cases (9mm, 45 ACP, .38 Special, etc...), IMHO, buy the carbide, three die set. The carbide re-sizer will eliminate the need to lube cases. And, IF you want the LEE FCD, I believe that LEE has a four die set, for most of the popular calibers.
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ASSUMING, that you purchase a single stage press.

Basically (For non-crimped primer pocket, rifle brass like .223 Rem., say a batch "lot" of a 100 cases):
1) Inspect and clean the cases- a liquid bath in hot water, a squirt of dish soap and some wht vinegar, will get them clean. Though, not shiny.
Or, you could just wipe the cases off with a solvent dampened rag.

IF you want, clean with a bit of shine……Birchwood Casey Case Cleaning Solution (#33845 CCI) is a fast and cheap way. Mix with water (follow the directions on the package) soak the brass, drain and dry. Save the solution as it can be re-used.
2) Set up your press with the shell holder and de-capper/FL re-sizer die.

3) Lube the cases. LEE lube (#90006) can be applied with fingers. Or, buy a spray on lube from one of the "other brands."

4) Then, run some test cases through the die, it'll de-cap/re-size the brass in one pass.

5) Next, using a case gauge, check the brass to ensure that the proper re-size, has been achieved. Insert a case into the case gauge. The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks the headspace. While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on). IF, it's not the "correct size," your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don't forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed.

*IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge is a case gauge. There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads. I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices).

Examples of various gauges……..
<broken link removed>

6) When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot. Also, do some random tests throughout the run.

7) Trimming brass. Remember the case gauge? Well, if your brass failed the gauge test, you will need to trim the brass. Or check the brass length with a caliper.

The cheapest way to trim brass, is with the LEE case trimmer. You'll need the cutter & lock stub and shell holder & case length gauge tools. The assembled trimmer runs on hand power or with a drill. Once the trimming is done, use a chamfer/reamer tool (LEE #90109) to "knock off the edge" on the newly cut case necks.

8) Clean the brass to take off the lube.......repeat, Step #1.

9) After the brass is thoroughly dry, re-prime the cases with a new primer.

The LEE auto prime hand tool makes fast work of this job. BTW, you'll need a special shell holder (not your reg. press shell holder) made especially for the LEE auto prime.

OR........use your press mounted primer tool.

10) After the cases have been re-primed, place the cases in a loading block.

11) Using a simple powder measure, calibrate it to throw the weight of powder charge that you want.

12) Check the thrown weight with your scale.

13) When you're satisfied that the weight is "correct." Charge each of the cases with powder. Do some random powder weight checks, throughout the run.

14) Next, remove the de-capper/re-sizer die from the press and replace it with the bullet seating die. Then, place the bullet on top of the opening of the case neck. Run the case w/bullet into the bullet seating die.

15) Inspect your rounds. You're done.
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IF you're dealing with military cases (I'll assume the primers are crimped)……..so, add these steps...........

2) With once fired military brass, this next step only has to be done once. You could de-cap primers with the standard de-cap/re-sizer die. Though due to the primer crimp, there is a high incidence of parts breakage. IMHO, de-cap the once fired military brass using either, a "universal" de-capper die or with a skinny nail/punch and anvil (with a hole in it, large enough for the old primer to fall out of, but still support the case rim). Or, buy the LEE military primer de-capper set (#90102-.30 cal., #90103-.22 cal.). Simply, run the nail/punch down through the case neck. The nail will enter the flash hole and rest against the old primer. Put the case on the anvil (old primer centered over the anvil's hole). Then, with a hammer knock out the old primer, letting the old primer fall through the hole in the anvil. Yes, the military crimp is sometimes that stubborn.

3) Again, since we're using once fired military brass, this next step has to be done only once. The primer crimp will need to be removed. The crimp gets either swaged or reamed/cut. My friend has a Dillon swage and I use a Lyman hand reamer/cutting tool. Both can do the job......one is cheaper. Lyman hand reamer (#7777785 Large, #7777784 Small). I do the crimp removal while watching TV. It's as simple as: pick up a case, insert the tool into the primer pocket and twist, remove case, next.....

*Commercial cases, usually don't have a primer crimp to bother with. So, steps 2 and 3 can be omitted. Likewise, for the next time you load these "already treated" military cases.
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To adjust dies correctly.......see the link……. www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm
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There are many LEE single station presses to choose from. <broken link removed> <broken link removed>

If you're in the market for a "kit." I like this one.www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1217810820.1709=/html/catalog/rlpress2.html#breech
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IMHO, a good compromise between a single station and a progressive is a Turret Press........ <broken link removed>
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NOTE: There are many ways to skin a cat. I tried to write this, keeping in mind a CHEAP WAY to do things. Thus, the choice of LEE products. Shop for your best prices. LEE products are frequently discounted.

That being said, a good press will last a lifetime and then some. Be it a LEE or RCBS or whatever other brand.

I bought a lot of my starter equipment, USED. And, I still have a lot of it.

My first press was a used RCBS Jr. and I later traded it for a used RCBS Rock Chucker. My friend wanted a smaller press and it was a straight across trade. So, how could I refuse?

Anyway, after a long time of using a single station press…………I up-graded.

I bought a Dillon. Then later, three LEE M1000 presses (just for pistol calibers).

Even after I got the progressive presses........well, just say that for ME, there will always be a job for the single station press on my bench.

And, even IF (and/or WHEN) you get a progressive........with bottle necked cases, depending on how you like to do things, you may not really gain all that much speed. BECAUSE, of the case prep steps involved (case lube, military primer crimps and trimming cases).

However, for straight walled commercial pistol cases, using carbide dies with a progressive press will really speed things up.
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How much $$ will I save??
To help you with your math on your cost per round.........just plug in your cost of components.

http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp

Aloha, Mark