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word of advice... when installing the front pivot pin put the lower reciever in a 1 gallon zip lock bag so when the detent and spring goes flying you wont lose it. i have found that if i lay my lower on its side i will install the spring and detent for the front pin and use the front pin to push the detent in while pushing it thru the receiver. to me, its much easier to do than the razor blade method. i can usually get it first try doing it 'my' way.
 
Stop telling him all the tips and tricks!!! Let home enjoy the pain of looking for the detent pin for and hour before giving up. Then finding it the morning the usps package arrives with the new ones!!
 
I actually saw the video on how to install the pivot pin, and I have a pivot pin install too that I picked up for a few bucks. I'm good to go when the LPK gets here. DAMN UPS! Website says it's on the truck. Where are you??!!
 
Back from Cabelas!
They have half an aisle of AR tools!
Pivot pin tools are $7!
I install sproingy parts in a white pillow case so when they sproing they have less places to go.
Should they sproing, I have a couple magnets in zip locks.
Wave them around the floor and desktop till I hear "CLICK" gotcha, you little sproinger!
 
The last time I assembled an AR lower was when I was an instructor at the Small Arms Repair School at Aberdeen. We did not even have vises, just pin punches and tiny brass hammers, maybe a few needle nose pliers. I do suggest oiling the holes and pins prior to insertiono_O
 
I've been know to make my own detent pins after sending them into a black hole that resides in my shop.
My wife graciously gave me a pair of her small aluminum knitting needles that were the perfect diameter.
 
I did mine with out the vise. Did by he magwell vice afterward for next build....bought the special wrench too. And roll pin punches. The Clevis pin trick works like a champ. I ended up with four Clevis pins cause they were packaged that way but now I am set with them if SHTF. My next lower is in state, just waiting for FFL and me to quit traveling. Looking at upper buy this weekend
 
Well, I got the LPK today and all was well until I hit a snag four steps into the building process.

Turns out that the safety selector switch is machined so poorly that it will not turn when it's all assembled. I disassembled it, looked it all over based on a quick Google search, and saw that the groove that the detent rides in is so ragged that the switch it totally immovable when assembled.

Now I have to call Palmetto and/or find a new one locally.
 
Well, I got the LPK today and all was well until I hit a snag four steps into the building process.

Turns out that the safety selector switch is machined so poorly that it will not turn when it's all assembled. I disassembled it, looked it all over based on a quick Google search, and saw that the groove that the detent rides in is so ragged that the switch it totally immovable when assembled.

Now I have to call Palmetto and/or find a new one locally.
Run up to Curts and get a nice ambidextrous bang switch. I just got the Seekins one from there. It's frickin schweeeet! tmp_20521-20151022_203106-337498832.jpg tmp_20521-20151022_203022-38312375.jpg
 
Well, I got the LPK today and all was well until I hit a snag four steps into the building process.

Turns out that the safety selector switch is machined so poorly that it will not turn when it's all assembled. I disassembled it, looked it all over based on a quick Google search, and saw that the groove that the detent rides in is so ragged that the switch it totally immovable when assembled.

Now I have to call Palmetto and/or find a new one locally.

or buy one from this guy @eldbillbo sounds like he has three

<broken link removed>
 
Chasing detent pins and springs? If you have a on/off magnetic dial indicator base set just remove the indicator and turn on the magnet. Much more powerful than most other magnets!:)
 
Turns out that the safety selector switch is machined so poorly that it will not turn when it's all assembled. I disassembled it, looked it all over based on a quick Google search, and saw that the groove that the detent rides in is so ragged that the switch it totally immovable when assembled.

I thought I had a similar problem, until I pushed the hammer down. Selector switch was stiff, but actually moved. Do you have the FCG installed yet?
 
I always use a big plastic bag. I think I'm going to label it "Sproing". :) I've never used a clevis pin but it looks neat. I just press the detent pin into place with the pivot pin, slide the pivot pin halfway into place, rotate it until the detent pin pops into the channel and then press the pivot pin the rest of the way in. If I can do it an awful lot of you can. Oh, and I put grease on everything before I install it. Any slow moving parts in my ARs get grease now - it stays put better than oil and makes the controls feel smoother.
 
Thanks for the suggestions on selector switches guys, but I'd really rather not spend a ridiculous amount of money on a chunk of metal that simply clicks back & forth.
 
I just ran into the same problem. I called Amazon CS, told them that someone in China had hacked their process and was selling counterfeit ProMag items drop-shipped from China (that MagPul would NEVER allow to happen) and that tracking indicated that delivery would take 4-6 weeks, and then Amazon CS: 1) Forced me a refund from the Chinese "vendor", and 2) Shipped me out a REAL ProMag vice block from one of Amazon's US domestic warehouses, next day delivery at their expense. The vice block is the real thing, and it works just fine. :)
 

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