CZ P10c - Upgrade or go with Optics Ready?

[Gprm1911]

As a new firearms enthusiast, I didn't realize that the optics ready version of the CZ has a different slide and threaded barrel.

For the goal of having a Red Dot, Light and Compensator, is it more reasonable to build off of what I have and upgrade the slide or is getting the model that is optics ready a better path? I'd have to sell mine to get into the optics ready version.

Photo is not mine but the setup I'm attempting to get to;

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[CZrespecter]

You don't have to sell to get an optics ready slide. You can have yours milled by a few different companies. The normal price is about $125 plus whatever the quoted wait time is, if I were to go if I didn't already have an optics ready pistol I'd go with direct milling.

 

[Gprm1911]

You don't have to sell to get an optics ready slide. You can have yours milled by a few different companies. The normal price is about $125 plus whatever the quoted wait time is, if I were to go if I didn't already have an optics ready pistol I'd go with direct milling.

Yes, I've also heard that coating is extra and it's about $40 shipping each way, wait time around 6-8wks - thus the quandary.

 

[CZrespecter]

Yes, I've also heard that coating is extra and it's about $40 shipping each way, wait time around 6-8wks - thus the quandary.

I understand that completely, I would personally get a direct milled slide because optic plates might come loose and shift zero. Imo it's better to pick an optic and stick with it and go direct milled, if you're worried about price just ask if your life is worth the extra dollars and that "poor" is a mindset and not a reality when buying potentially life saving equipment.

 

[Member 34319]

As a new firearms enthusiast…

For the goal of having a Red Dot, Light and Compensator…

Being new, shoot it as is. Spend the money you would trying to get that tacticool look on ammo and training instead.

 

[CZrespecter]

Being new, shoot it as is. Spend the money you would trying to get that tacticool look on ammo and training instead.

He's also completely right if you get anything for a new gun get a light on it first.

 

[Gprm1911]

Being new, shoot it as is. Spend the money you would trying to get that tacticool look on ammo and training instead.

Lot's of wisdom here, thanks. My current training has moved me down from a .45 acp to 9mm to .22lr. All to support an increase in marksmanship.
Training my body to not jerk in response to anticipated loud bangs is difficult.
Getting my grip down is proving to be more difficult than I imagined, sweaty palms and all.

What about a magwell? Been hearing that they help with grip.

 

[Gprm1911]

I understand that completely, I would personally get a direct milled slide because optic plates might come loose and shift zero. Imo it's better to pick an optic and stick with it and go direct milled, if you're worried about price just ask if your life is worth the extra dollars and that "poor" is a mindset and not a reality when buying potentially life saving equipment.

Refreshing reframe of perspective, thank you.

 

[Tlock]

I tried talon grips and they helped alot. They eventually wore out so I sent my frame off to rocket city stippeling for a custom job that's permanent. I also run a carver custom mag well

 

[Member 34319]

Lot's of wisdom here, thanks. My current training has moved me down from a .45 acp to 9mm to .22lr. All to support an increase in marksmanship.
Training my body to not jerk in response to anticipated loud bangs is difficult.
Getting my grip down is proving to be more difficult than I imagined, sweaty palms and all.

What about a magwell? Been hearing that they help with grip.

I wouldn't say a magwell helps with grip in my opinion. Especially on a full sized handgun.

Go fast stuff isn't really needed unless you, go fast.

Most of the crap out there for guns are for two types of people. Those that compete and might actually get some benefit out of some of the add ons. Then there are those that don't compete, or shoot, and have nothing else better to do than modify things excessively when they are entirely not needed. The pictured pistol in your original post is definitely off the second variety.

 

[DLS]

Places like Brimstone in Camas do a superb job killing slides and there is no shipping needed.

I'd suggest getting a couple of lessons with a decent trainer, based in what I see in your posts. You will spend far more in ammo and get less proficiency striking on your own. That will iron out your grip and trigger press / flinching in short order.

Personally I like the direct mount option over adapter plates. The sight sits a bit lower on the slide a d less to go wrong.

Having said this I ha e been known to run a pistol with the plate. But I use Loctite and a torque wrench when mount6the site and retorque the fasteners every 5-600 rounds. So never have had one loosen on me.

 

[Member 80998]

Lot's of good info.
IMO… and to keep it simple..

1) learn to pull the trigger without moving the gun.. DO NOT worry about aiming right away.

2) a TLR2-HLG Laser/Light attached to the rail will show you how much you are moving the gun when you pull the trigger. Secure it and don't take it off or the laser will be off target usually. You can move it to your next gun that you buy.

3) Dry fire with no ammo in the same room and see how much the muzzle moves with the laser on (don't dry fire .22 rimfire).

4) Use the proper hand, thumb and wrist positioning on the grip with the proper grip strength (lot's of opinions on this). Try dominant (trigger) hand 30% and the other hand 70% to help you to better control your trigger finger to not move the gun when firing.

5)Locking your wrist and a proper grip technique stabilizes the handgun so it will not move as much and return to the point of aim (zero) faster.

IMO… The P10-c is awesome (I own the Optic ready model, no threaded barrel)… but even that requires the purchase of an optic plate and new sights to cowitness with the optic… add about $175 - $200 and the time to research and the expense to install the new iron sights.

IMO the Walther PDP Pro SD will give you the most overall value or the PDP 4" Compact if you want just a carry gun. It's inexpensive for what you get. Super reliable and accurate.
The Optic plate is free. The sights that are on it will co-witness with the optic.

The trigger on the Pro SD is their newest performance trigger which is rated the best factory striker trigger on the market by most… and is better than the P10-C trigger out of the box.

The PDP 4# Compact trigger is awesome out of the box.

 

[Flopsweat]

Lot's of good info.
IMO… and to keep it simple..

1) learn to pull the trigger without moving the gun.. DO NOT worry about aiming right away.

2) a TLR2-HLG Laser/Light attached to the rail will show you how much you are moving the gun when you pull the trigger. Secure it and don't take it off or the laser will be off target usually. You can move it to your next gun that you buy.

3) Dry fire with no ammo in the same room and see how much the muzzle moves with the laser on (don't dry fire .22 rimfire).

4) Use the proper hand, thumb and wrist positioning on the grip with the proper grip strength (lot's of opinions on this). Try dominant (trigger) hand 30% and the other hand 70% to help you to better control your trigger finger to not move the gun when firing.

5)Locking your wrist and a proper grip technique stabilizes the handgun so it will not move as much and return to the point of aim (zero) faster.

IMO… The P10-c is awesome (I own the Optic ready model, no threaded barrel)… but even that requires the purchase of an optic plate and new sights to cowitness with the optic… add about $175 - $200 and the time to research and the expense to install the new iron sights.

IMO the Walther PDP Pro SD will give you the most overall value or the PDP 4" Compact if you want just a carry gun. It's inexpensive for what you get. Super reliable and accurate.
The Optic plate is free. The sights that are on it will co-witness with the optic.

The trigger on the Pro SD is their newest performance trigger which is rated the best factory striker trigger on the market by most… and is better than the P10-C trigger out of the box.

The PDP 4# Compact trigger is awesome out of the box.

Great points but I would offer this one minor tweak: I have found that for action shooting, a firm grip with both hands mitigates recoil noticably better. Follow up shots are quicker/more accurate. Dry firing, as you mentioned, with a laser or a boresight or Mantis, will help you learn to press the trigger without moving the gun.

On a related note, when target shooting, you'll often be told you'll get a little better accuracy by placing a particular part of your trigger finger on the trigger. If you're trying to shoot quickly, I've found that leaving your finger wherever it naturally sits - given your particular grip and the particular gun you're shooting - is most conducive to accuracy and control. Often this can mean that the trigger is past your first knuckle, but don't let that worry you - just give it a try. Hope that helps.

 

[Member 80998]

??? I won't do this again

 

[Nosferatu]

Screw all the naysayers. Pimp that puppy out to your hearts delight! Red dot, mill the crap out of the slide, comp, magwell, bright colored anodized accents and paint that sucker gold! Go nuts, you only live once that we know of.

None of it will make you shoot better, but you'll be the bestest looking spray-and-prayer at the range that day, I guarantee it!

 

[titsonritz]

3) Dry fire with no ammo in the same room