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Couple of questions, I was looking at Apex and Zev triggers do either improve the trigger performance?
Whats a good crisp custom drop in trigger for the Glock platform?
 
Agency Arms and Overwatch Precision.
so far everywhere is out of stock. But if I may ask... Im not that familiar with Glock trigger systems (just now researching)... but the Agency drop in trigger includes only the trigger bar but nothing else (housing, disconnect, slide parts etc.) so does only a trigger and bar assembly only improve trigger pull performance?
 
This is one of the best sources for upgrading Glock triggers. Many Glock parts do not allow for polishing as they are hard surfaced only and it is very easy to polish through the hardened surface. The Ghost kit is fairly to install. There are many youtube videos to help with install.

The Ghost trigger kit greatly improved my shooting ability with a Glock platform.
 
This is one of the best sources for upgrading Glock triggers. Many Glock parts do not allow for polishing as they are hard surfaced only and it is very easy to polish through the hardened surface. The Ghost kit is fairly to install. There are many youtube videos to help with install.

The Ghost trigger kit greatly improved my shooting ability with a Glock platform.
The thing with Ghost connectors (I've tried several) is that they wipe out the "wall" and give you a "rolling break".
If you like having a "wall" stay away from Ghost.
 
While we are on this, does anyone know a manufacturer of any parts for a Glock 30 (.45) no one seems to make any kind of parts that I can find. This is why I had to send it to springer precision to get it optic cut and cerakoted. Only things I've been able to do besides a slide plate cover.
 
Couple of questions, I was looking at Apex and Zev triggers do either improve the trigger performance?
Whats a good crisp custom drop in trigger for the Glock platform?
One does not exist.

I have a JohnnyGlocks custom drop in trigger in my G34 and I paid $75 for his highly polished striker... it is incredibly smooth for a Glock trigger, and the break is clean, reset is short... but crisp? .... Naw, I haven't had that since arth forced me to give up my 1911/2011 single action pistols due to the manual safety.

Glock pistols were not designed for precision. They were designed for dependability and ease of use. They will always have too much take up and pretravel, since that is what finishes cocking the striker and also is part of the safety design. The Glock has a ledge that the cruciform rides on as the trigger is pulled, that keeps the striker held back until the cruciform falls into the notch and releases the striker. It is a good system, but it is not one that is sharp/crisp.

After all the $$$ I spent on trying out triggers for my Glock, I have decided that a (-) minus connector, a $.25 cent polish job, and some good synthetic gun grease on the connector is as good as it gets. IMO Glock really lacks because of the plastic striker channel liner... somebody needs to come up with a nitride liner or some kind of smooth metal. Even after polishing the liner, it still feels gritty.
 
Couple of questions, I was looking at Apex and Zev triggers do either improve the trigger performance?
Whats a good crisp custom drop in trigger for the Glock platform?
Zev is too boutique and risky with their 2# and 3# striker springs for me to take seriously.
Apex is strong in the S&W Shield market and not so much in Glock World.

I have Overwatch TAC and Agency.
These two are reliable and very similar to one another.
They reduce perceived pull weight because they get your finger lower which increases "lever length".
"Reach" is reduced.

As you know, the safety blade on the Glock trigger stays "proud" of the trigger shoe face when fully depressed.
This annoys a lot of folks and it's one thing that most aftermarket triggers address.
The safety blade safety goes flush when the trigger is depressed.

The area on the Glock pistol that has most influence on trigger pull weight is the striker spring.
On a self defense pistol I would not monkey with the striker spring.
Wolff Gunsprings is the best place to get Glock striker springs in different weights.
They go from 6# down to 4# in half pound increments.
No one reputable goes below 4# for Glock striker springs.

I have used the 4# striker spring in a range gun.
Yields about a 2(+)# pull weight.

You can use a reduced power safety plunger spring but that really does nor have much effect on pull weight.
And you can do the "25 cent Glock polish" job. (Mother's paste and Dremel buffer wheel)
You can chuck up a cut off Q-Tip (with paste) in your drill motor and do the polish thing (see Youtube)

Glock trigger spring (not striker spring) Gen 4 and earlier :
Many will erroneously call this spring the "reset spring" when it is actually a trigger pull assist spring.
It pulls the wrong way to be a reset spring. In a Glock, the reset spring is the striker spring.
Glock striker springs are 70% charged when in battery and the trigger spring helps overcome the charging of the last 30%.

Some trigger monkeys will swap out the OEM trigger spring (5.0#) for a 6# aftermarket spring.
Seems like a good idea, right ?
Let's overcome that last 30% even more !
And it does that but what it also does is degrade "reset quality".
Some will make that trade for a different way of reducing pull weight.

Glock OEM trigger spring = 5.0#
Glock OEM striker spring = 5.5#

Glock connector
If you are tuning Glock triggers you will get into the "connector"
It's a simple but key part in the Glock trigger system.
It works as a ramp to separate the cruciform from the striker lug during the trigger press.
Then it works as a leaf spring during reset.
The degree of slope on the ramp is the main difference between the various connectors.

I've tried a bunch of different connectors and have some full circle back to the Glock "minus" connector and the Glock "dot" connector. They are marked on the back side. No mark is the standard connector.
The minus connector is a Glock-controlled part.
You can get them on the "gray market" for about $18

So to recap on just the Glock aftermarket trigger...
I'd get Agency or Overwatch.
OR I'd try the new Timney which many shooters are liking.

With the Timney, you will want to verify cruciform/striker lug contact (interface) using an armorer's inspection plate.
This is a cut down slide end cap. Make one or buy one.
Look at the stock interface so you'll know what you're looking for.

Good luck
 
Last Edited:
Zev is too boutique and risky with their 2# and 3# striker springs for me to take seriously.
Apex is strong in the S&W Shield market and not so much in Glock World.

I have Overwatch TAC and Agency.
These two are reliable and very similar to one another.
They reduce perceived pull weight because they get your finger lower which increases "lever length".
"Reach" is reduced.

As you know, the safety blade on the Glock trigger stays "proud" of the trigger shoe face when fully depressed.
This annoys a lot of folks and it's one thing that most aftermarket triggers address.
The safety blade safety goes flush when the trigger is depressed.

The area on the Glock pistol that has most influence on trigger pull weight is the striker spring.
On a self defense pistol I would not monkey with the striker spring.
Wolff Gunsprings is the best place to get Glock striker springs in different weights.
They from from 6# down to 4# in half pound increments.
No one reputable goes below 4# for Glock striker springs.

I have used the 4# striker spring in a range gun.
Yields about a 2(+)# pull weight.

You can use a reduced power safety plunger spring but that really does nor have much effect on pull weight.
And you can do the "25 cent Glock polish" job. (Mother's paste and Dremel buffer wheel)
You can chuck up a cut off Q-Tip (with paste) in your drill motor and do the polish thing (see Youtube)

Glock trigger spring (not striker spring) Gen 4 and earlier :
Many will erroneously call this spring the "reset spring" when it is actually a trigger pull assist spring.
It pulls the wrong way to be a reset spring. In a Glock, the reset spring is the striker spring.
Glock striker springs are 70% charged when in battery and the trigger spring helps overcome the charging of the last 30%.

Some trigger monkeys will swap out the OEM trigger spring (5.0#) for a 6# aftermarket spring.
Seems like a good idea, right ?
Let's overcome that last 30% even more !
And it does that but what it also does is degrade "reset quality".
Some will make that trade for a different way of reducing pull weight.

Glock OEM trigger spring = 5.0#
Glock OEM striker spring = 5.5#

Glock connector
If you are tuning Glock triggers you will get into the "connector"
It's a simple but key part in the Glock trigger system.
It works as a ramp to separate the cruciform from the striker lug during the trigger press.
Then it works as a leaf spring during reset.
The degree of slope on the ramp is the main difference between the various connectors.

I've tried a bunch of different connectors and have some full circle back to the Glock "minus" connector and the Glock "dot" connector. They are marked on the back side. No mark is the standard connector.
The minus connector is a Glock-controlled part.
You can get them on the "gray market" for about $18

So to recap on just the Glock aftermarket trigger...
I'd get Agency or Overwatch.
OR I'd try the new Timney which many shooters are liking.

With the Timney, you will want to verify cruciform/striker lug contact (interface) using an armorer's inspection plate.
This is a cut down slide end cap. Make one or buy one.
Look at the stock interface so you'll know what you're looking for.

Good luck
I agree with most of your statement and you brought up some things I hadn't considered. Good info
 
With the Timney, you will want to verify cruciform/striker lug contact (interface) using an armorer's inspection plate.
This is a cut down slide end cap. Make one or buy one.
I used the clear plastic inspection plate when I was monkeying with pretravel reduction. I forgot to change it back to the OEM and went to an IDPA match with it still in.... it blew out in the middle of the match and shot parts out on the ground. Good for smithing... not good for firing rounds. :eek:
 

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