Cosmoline

[Modeler]

Hi all,

Lets say I wanted to preserve some sort of metal machine for a while, possibly bury it for some reason maybe....

Where would I go about getting cosmoline?

I see some here, but it's $60+ per quart:

Cosmoline Rust Preventative & Coatings - FREE SHIPPING | Cosmoline Direct

Midway says that genuine Cosmoline has been discontinued. Brownell's has something that allegedly "works every bit as well as the original":

RUST VETO | Brownells

Any thoughts?

Read More

 

[civilian75]

My thoughts? Grab cosmo direct stuff before it's gone. You ain't the only one with such thoughts.

 

[Modeler]

So, how Cosmoline does it take to cover, say, one long skinny machine and one smaller machine?

 

[bigbronco1996]

You could always try one of these Poly Gun Bags I have a "friend" who has tried leaving a no good gun barrel in the rafters of his shed at the beach to test them. Over a year and zero signs of rust, as a mater of fact thats about the only thing not covered in rust there. Damn salt air.

 

[Bushman]

How long do they work for though?

 

[zippygaloo]

May I flip this around for a moment? How do I get the cosmoline out of the wood and off of the metal parts?

 

[Rascals]

Simple green. But oil it right after you clean it or it will rust. It takes off all oil and cosmoline.

 

[ATCclears]

Another thread was discussing the use of petroleum jelly instead of Cosmoline. Any input?

Peter

 

[civilian75]

May I flip this around for a moment? How do I get the cosmoline out of the wood and off of the metal parts?

I've used a combination of, 1st, Simple Green and, then, Break Free. WD-40 is also good to remove cosmoline, but very poor for rust proofing, for it evaporates within a few days. Carb cleaner, too, but it can damage polymers and some finishes.

 

[civilian75]

Sorry for the double post.

 

[mosinguy1]

Take the wood off and store in seperate bag with some type of perservative on it too both will fit in say pvc,plus it would be easier to clean and reassemble

 

[nwwoodsman]

Lead dipped in copper is a better preservative of your gun rights than cosmoline and dirt.

 

[Modeler]

Lead dipped in copper is a better preservative of your gun rights than cosmoline and dirt.

Maybe true, but this thread is about preserving the guns themselves.

 

[Siglvr]

Here ya are: Brownells sells "Rust Veto". 1 lb for $14.45 or $34.95 for 4 lbs. A lb is 16 ounces for price comparison. LINK - RUST VETO | Brownells

They say:

"Powerful Rust Preventer Does The Job Of Cosmoline~

When the manufacturer of Cosmoline® discontinued the product, we were shocked because we know many folks still consider it the best thing around for protecting guns from rust during long-term storage. Fortunately, we now have a substitute that works every bit as well as the original. Brownells Rust Veto is a soft, medium dark industrial-grade grease with a powerful combination of highly refined petroleum oils and waxes, plus corrosion and oxidation inhibitors, that preserves and protects stored firearms from rust and corrosion for years. The application and effectiveness of Rust Veto are the same as Cosmoline. It liquefies when heated to 140°-170° F., so you can immerse parts for complete penetration and coverage of intricate shapes and recesses. Melted Rust Veto can also be brushed or swabbed into/onto the metal to be protected."

I would think that the ultimate in storage would be this stuff (if you heat it by leaving it in hot water it will flow better), then insert the Rust Veto coated metal into a VCI bag (Volitile Corrosion inhibitor), seal that well (roll it up and Gorilla duct tape), then put it in a schedule 40 /ABS sewer drain pipe. Cap the ends right after tossing in some silica gel desiccant like this stuff. LINK - SILICA GEL PAKS - DESICCANT | Brownells

I'm wondering if Pennzoil Marine Premium Plus Multi-Purpose Grease or even Mobile 1 synthetic grease might not be just as good if not better? http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENGRSMOMobil_1_Synthetic_Grease.aspx


The Pennzoil is designed for water applications. I suspect it would work better than Cosmoline, not just that it is cheaper. It's designed for wheel bearings going into salt water.......it would most likely work perfect in your application. Probably get it at the corner auto parts or Boat store. LINK - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKJRJ0/ref=asc_df_B000KKJRJ02337894?smid=A1SV1BYDTUK2Z5&tag=dealtmp782833-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B000KKJRJ0 Anyone have any thoughts on that?

Hope that helps. Bury it, walk away and forget it. Sometime @ the year 3052, some aliens will find it and be shocked and amazed.



Edit, opps, I see you posted the Brownells stuff already. Me, I'd go with the Pennzoil/VCI bag/plastic sewer pipe combo.

 

[Modeler]

That Rust-Veto probably would be good, except for the "out of stock" tag

 

[dolooper]

May I flip this around for a moment? How do I get the cosmoline out of the wood and off of the metal parts?

I use heat, plenty of rags, elbow grease, and a bunch of ammunition.

I strongly recommend against using your oven at say 200 degrees for 5 or 6 hours with the small parts in an aluminum roasting pan inside the oven unless your wife/husband/partner/spouse/mother/girlfriend is either very accommodating, very supportive, or very gone for about 2 days.

As for the long, skinny parts, I've found it useful to slide it into a section of stove pipe, set on end on top of rags, drop a 75 or 100 watt shop light down, and cover over night.

After removing as much as possible, running patches, and lubing, there's nothing like shooting a lot of ammo through it to bring out any remaining cosmo.

My $.02

 

[raindog]

May I flip this around for a moment? How do I get the cosmoline out of the wood and off of the metal parts?

Done this several times with milsurps. Here's how I de-cosmo a rifle:

- break it down as far as possible - I love this book

- boil a pot of water, then put all small metal parts in it. Only need a few seconds for the cosmo to separate

- boil another pot of water. Hold small wood parts over it. The hot steam will bubble up the cosmo. Wipe, wait for more to come out, wipe, etc.

- To do the rest of the stock, you can either do it in stages over hot water, or put it in the oven at 200 degrees. Let it warm up and cosmo will seep out. Wipe. Repeat. Even if you have to keep the oven door open because the stock is too long, you can make this work.

- Finally, you're down to the barrel. I start with a panfuls of alternating hot water and hot soapy water, until no more cosmo comes out. Then I plug the barrel and fill with (non-chlorinated!) brake cleaner. Let it sit for a a half hour, then rinse with alternating hot water and hot soapy water.

Now you've got a pretty de-cosmo'd rifle. But you should proceed with cleaning the barrel as you would with any normal rifle after you get it home from the range to remove any fouling.

I usually wipe all the metal with CLP and put Butch's Gun Oil down the barrel when I'm done.

 

[oknow]

Maybe true, but this thread is about preserving the guns themselves.

no it's not reread the first line from the op (Lets say I wanted to preserve some sort of metal machine for a while)

 

[Shaolo]

It's really not a good idea to put anything like this in an oven you use to cook food with.

 

[nwwoodsman]

It's really not a good idea to put anything like this in an oven you use to cook food with.

Because the chemicals they use to make food with can be hell on your gun parts