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Cosmoline

Discussion in 'Preparedness & Survival' started by Modeler, Jan 3, 2013.

  1. Modeler

    Modeler Molalla, Oregon Soccer Fan

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  2. civilian75

    civilian75 Hillsboro, OR Well-Known Member

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    My thoughts? Grab cosmo direct stuff before it's gone. You ain't the only one with such thoughts.
     
  3. Modeler

    Modeler Molalla, Oregon Soccer Fan

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    So, how Cosmoline does it take to cover, say, one long skinny machine and one smaller machine?
     
  4. bigbronco1996

    bigbronco1996 SW Washington Member

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    You could always try one of these Poly Gun Bags I have a "friend" who has tried leaving a no good gun barrel in the rafters of his shed at the beach to test them. Over a year and zero signs of rust, as a mater of fact thats about the only thing not covered in rust there. Damn salt air.
     
  5. Bushman

    Bushman Auburn, WA Well-Known Member

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    How long do they work for though?
     
  6. zippygaloo

    zippygaloo Oregon Member

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    May I flip this around for a moment? How do I get the cosmoline out of the wood and off of the metal parts?
     
  7. Rascals

    Rascals Portland Or Active Member

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    Simple green. But oil it right after you clean it or it will rust. It takes off all oil and cosmoline.
     
  8. ATCclears

    ATCclears Seattle area, WA Well-Known Member

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    Another thread was discussing the use of petroleum jelly instead of Cosmoline. Any input?

    Peter
     
  9. civilian75

    civilian75 Hillsboro, OR Well-Known Member

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    I've used a combination of, 1st, Simple Green and, then, Break Free. WD-40 is also good to remove cosmoline, but very poor for rust proofing, for it evaporates within a few days. Carb cleaner, too, but it can damage polymers and some finishes.
     
  10. civilian75

    civilian75 Hillsboro, OR Well-Known Member

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    Sorry for the double post.
     
  11. mosinguy1

    mosinguy1 out by the ocean Active Member

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    Take the wood off and store in seperate bag with some type of perservative on it too both will fit in say pvc,plus it would be easier to clean and reassemble
     
  12. nwwoodsman

    nwwoodsman Vernonia Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter 2015 Volunteer

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    Lead dipped in copper is a better preservative of your gun rights than cosmoline and dirt.
     
    ocarolan, GOG, chariot13 and 9 others like this.
  13. Modeler

    Modeler Molalla, Oregon Soccer Fan

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    Maybe true, but this thread is about preserving the guns themselves.
     
  14. billcoe

    billcoe PDX Platinum Supporter Platinum Supporter

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    Here ya are: Brownells sells "Rust Veto". 1 lb for $14.45 or $34.95 for 4 lbs. A lb is 16 ounces for price comparison. LINK - RUST VETO | Brownells

    They say:
    I would think that the ultimate in storage would be this stuff (if you heat it by leaving it in hot water it will flow better), then insert the Rust Veto coated metal into a VCI bag (Volitile Corrosion inhibitor), seal that well (roll it up and Gorilla duct tape), then put it in a schedule 40 /ABS sewer drain pipe. Cap the ends right after tossing in some silica gel desiccant like this stuff. LINK - SILICA GEL PAKS - DESICCANT | Brownells

    I'm wondering if Pennzoil Marine Premium Plus Multi-Purpose Grease or even Mobile 1 synthetic grease might not be just as good if not better? http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENGRSMOMobil_1_Synthetic_Grease.aspx
    mobil1grease.jpg

    The Pennzoil is designed for water applications. I suspect it would work better than Cosmoline, not just that it is cheaper. It's designed for wheel bearings going into salt water.......it would most likely work perfect in your application. Probably get it at the corner auto parts or Boat store. LINK - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKJRJ0/ref=asc_df_B000KKJRJ02337894?smid=A1SV1BYDTUK2Z5&tag=dealtmp782833-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B000KKJRJ0 Anyone have any thoughts on that?

    Hope that helps. Bury it, walk away and forget it. Sometime @ the year 3052, some aliens will find it and be shocked and amazed.



    Edit, opps, I see you posted the Brownells stuff already. Me, I'd go with the Pennzoil/VCI bag/plastic sewer pipe combo.

    mobil1grease.jpg
     
  15. Modeler

    Modeler Molalla, Oregon Soccer Fan

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    That Rust-Veto probably would be good, except for the "out of stock" tag :(
     
  16. dolooper

    dolooper Coast Range, or thereabouts Well-Known Member

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    I use heat, plenty of rags, elbow grease, and a bunch of ammunition.

    I strongly recommend against using your oven at say 200 degrees for 5 or 6 hours with the small parts in an aluminum roasting pan inside the oven unless your wife/husband/partner/spouse/mother/girlfriend is either very accommodating, very supportive, or very gone for about 2 days.

    As for the long, skinny parts, I've found it useful to slide it into a section of stove pipe, set on end on top of rags, drop a 75 or 100 watt shop light down, and cover over night.

    After removing as much as possible, running patches, and lubing, there's nothing like shooting a lot of ammo through it to bring out any remaining cosmo.

    My $.02
     
  17. raindog

    raindog Portland, OR Active Member

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    Done this several times with milsurps. Here's how I de-cosmo a rifle:

    - break it down as far as possible - I love this book

    - boil a pot of water, then put all small metal parts in it. Only need a few seconds for the cosmo to separate

    - boil another pot of water. Hold small wood parts over it. The hot steam will bubble up the cosmo. Wipe, wait for more to come out, wipe, etc.

    - To do the rest of the stock, you can either do it in stages over hot water, or put it in the oven at 200 degrees. Let it warm up and cosmo will seep out. Wipe. Repeat. Even if you have to keep the oven door open because the stock is too long, you can make this work.

    - Finally, you're down to the barrel. I start with a panfuls of alternating hot water and hot soapy water, until no more cosmo comes out. Then I plug the barrel and fill with (non-chlorinated!) brake cleaner. Let it sit for a a half hour, then rinse with alternating hot water and hot soapy water.

    Now you've got a pretty de-cosmo'd rifle. But you should proceed with cleaning the barrel as you would with any normal rifle after you get it home from the range to remove any fouling.

    I usually wipe all the metal with CLP and put Butch's Gun Oil down the barrel when I'm done.
     
  18. oknow

    oknow amboy wa. Well-Known Member

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    no it's not reread the first line from the op (Lets say I wanted to preserve some sort of metal machine for a while)
     
  19. Shaolo

    Shaolo USA Active Member

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    It's really not a good idea to put anything like this in an oven you use to cook food with.
     
  20. nwwoodsman

    nwwoodsman Vernonia Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter 2015 Volunteer

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    Because the chemicals they use to make food with can be hell on your gun parts