JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Messages
38
Reactions
0
Hello all.. After lurking about for a little. I think this would be the proper place to post this...

So I have a Bersa .380 and it really has grown on me. I figure that even when I get myself something else, this guy will stick around...

One of the things that I don't really like is how far the rear "handle thing" protrudes..

Since I can't explain it, pictures will have to do the job..


So this is a regular Thunder .380 (mine is also Duo-Tone..)


And pardoning the poor excuse for a photoshop..

This is how I envision it...



I also figured I might trim the hammer while I was at it..


So ok, thoughts, suggestions, comments, questions?..

Be brutal..
 
if it were me i wouldn't go that far with it but that's me. i have large hands and that would not work.
the beaver tail is there for a reason but that one does look a little long. i might be inclined to maybe cut the length in half. but make sure the hammer is still able to protect the hand. lightning the hammer can cause effect like litght strikes and that could be a issue. i wouldn't cut down the frame first and then the hammer. if you must do it have the hammer cut first then go shoot it. if it still works and with no issues then go for the frame.
it's much easier to replace just the hammer then trying to figure out how to add metal back to the frame if the hammer bit doesn't work. you would for sure get bit if the hammer was full size and the beaver tail cut down.
hope this helps.:s0155:
 
I would recommend against doing the changes you propose. One should never make cosmetic changes that can impair function or reliability.

Removing metal from the ring hammer will reduce its weight and can affect whether it will reliably set off a round when you pull the trigger. Regarding the tang/beavertail, it is there to aid in one's grip and that helps one's shooting.

Also, the cost of doing the work along with the refinishing would probably exceed the value of the Bersa. If you want a pistol that you can spend money customizing, you need to get into the 1911 and the world of 1911 custom gunsmith work.
 
I would not hesitate to make either of those modification if that's what I wanted.
The ring on the hammer can't even weigh half a gram so there's no reason for concern over hammer weight. If you are concerned about it, make the mod and go straight to the range with a couple boxes of ammo. On the highly unlikely chance you see a problem, replace the hammer.

As for the spur on the frame, I'd want to cut it off too. It looks to be one more thing to snag on clothing.
 
Sorry no go from my vote.

I'd suggest you purchase a weapon in the configuration you really want.

Only an opinion!

But you know the thing about opinions and what they are like!

T_H

I'm with this guy! If you do that to that gun and it doesn't work right your screwed. Even if it does function correctly you'll never be able to sell it for what it's suposed to be worth and you'd be stuck with your cool creation for ever.

Nope I wouldn't do it and would not buy a gun that has had it done to it.

+1 for buy a gun that fits your needs better.
 
Removing metal from the ring hammer will reduce its weight and can affect whether it will reliably set off a round when you pull the trigger. Regarding the tang/beavertail, it is there to aid in one's grip and that helps one's shooting.

I hadn't really thought about the weight of the hammer. I was assuming that the weight difference would be negligible. But since the entire hammer doesn't weigh too much. I see that it could very well affect something adversely...


If you want a pistol that you can spend money customizing, you need to get into the 1911 and the world of 1911 custom gunsmith work.

If I could afford a pistol that I could spend money on by customizing it, I would do so. :D

Bersa is my first gun. I wanted something inexpensive and small- it fit the bill...



But I see what most of you are saying. And I suppose that you are right. For now, I will leave everything untouched...

Thank you for your input...
 
I say go for it if you are confident in your ability. It's your gun, your choice and it's just a Bersa....

Take off a little at a time so you don't go too far. The amount you show removed in the pic may be just a tad too much.
 
and it's just a Bersa....

Ouch... :D


Interesting info in this auction photo... Apparently Bersa makes a Thunder .380 with a bobbed hammer and the spur on the back of the frame is similar to the one in your photoshoped image.

Yup, this is where it originally came to me. This Concealed Carry version came out after I got mine... I like it, but I don't see myself spending more money towards another Bersa- might as well save up for something nicer...

Notice the CC version also has shorter sights...
 
The "extended beaver tail" is there to keep the web of your hand from riding up and getting scraped by the recoiling slide. It's very common with small autos and is called, "slide-bite." The Walther PPK was famous for slide-bite because it had a short beaver tail and needs a careful grip, which is improved by a slip-on grip sleeve. When Smith & Wesson paired with Walther and redesigned the PPK they made the beaver tail much longer. You can compare photos of the Walther versus the Smith and see the difference. I'll bet that Bersa had that in mind....................elsullo ;)
 
Dang bunch a pansies!!! I'd leave the hammer be, but say have fun with the beavertail on there. I had a Bersa 22lr, loved that gun!!!

Slide-bite can be quite bloody. I have a permanent scar as a trophy of PPK fandom! It's annoying when the recoiling slide spatters your own blood on your shooting glasses.......................elsullo :p
 
I'd also need to know if that beaver tail housing in anyway holds the mainspring or its structure or parts, or anything else critical. It's possible that the new carry version also has a redesigned spring or housing to accommodate that.

It would be the pits to start grinding, and grind through to a hollow area and find critical parts supported by what I was grinding. :(

It would also be the pits to find that the whole thing is hollow, even if it doesn't serve an internal function.
 
I'd also need to know if that beaver tail housing in anyway holds the mainspring or its structure or parts, or anything else critical. It's possible that the new carry version also has a redesigned spring or housing to accommodate that.

It would be the pits to start grinding, and grind through to a hollow area and find critical parts supported by what I was grinding. :(

It would also be the pits to find that the whole thing is hollow, even if it doesn't serve an internal function.

Anyone who is not comfortable taking a gun completely apart shouldn't modify it themselves. Once it's stripped down to the frame, it will be obvious if there's any reason to not remove the spur.
 

Upcoming Events

Tillamook Gun & Knife Show
Tillamook, OR
"The Original" Kalispell Gun Show
Kalispell, MT
Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top