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Unless you have a pinned FSB, get a rail that's easy to remove and install. Use a Fat Wrench or similar to properly torque it each time (don't use a torque wrench to loosen the fastener(s) unless it's designed for that). Get a cheap Picatinny riser that has a full length clamp to "bridge the gap", it makes quick work with rail alignment. Manganese phosphate or Parkerized barrels need regular oiling. Nitride and stainless not so much, depending on the quality and alloy. Throw a silicone gun storage sock over it to help with lint and dust during storage and transport.
 
Buy stainless barrels. Anymore, I am not interested in carbon steel barrels in AR's and only consider stainless hunting rifles.

With old parked rifles that are not supposed to be disassembled often for cleaning, I very lightly grease before assembling.
 
Been using a patched cleaning rod and running it in from the open muzzle end. Results suck. Technique sucks. There must be a better way. What am I missing? Any better secret techniques you can share?
I use foaming CLP and compressed air.
 
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If it's real bad, I'll use brake cleaner with the straw spraying through the holes and flushing out the front. I apply Rem-Oil or other aerosol gun oil after in the same manner.
 
Air compressor with "puppy training pads" to soak up all the excess is the easiest way I've found.
Nah. Just hold it over the grumpy neighbors grass when you're blowing out all the grime and excess CLP. :s0140:
 
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