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I grew up waiting for the school bus in the neighbors Old school saw shop. Oliver Steffen did hand saws circular saws and chainsaws He also worked on all small engine machines. Dude had been doing it for like 40 years by the time I came along.

He used a long clamp that held about 12" of chain by the guides at the bottom of the teeth. He then had a little slide like guide that held his round file at the perfect angle. He would file each tooth a few strokes and then move to the next when that side of the chain was doe it got flipped around and the other side was sharpened. He then ran a stone across the top of the chippers to even them out and then he lubed the chain and it was done.

His shop work bench had been used for chainsaw engine repair so long if you pushed down hard on the Masonite top oil would come up.

In the winter his little wood stove was burning so hot you could almost see through the sides of the Iron. He had the old Carbon tetrachloride fire extinguisher glass globes hanging from the ceiling.

I was always amazed the place didn't blow up. Waited for the bus for 5-6 years in that place. Learned a whole lot about engines and stuff from that old bastard. Even got a couple good kicks in the bubblegum when I pissed him off.
 
Isn't it so interesting the hoopdeloop when the op said he had his chain professionally sharpened and the fail? but I think was fail upon fail. no big though
Yes, sharpen your own crap your own self. and and maybe even do whatever.. $200/hr adds up.
 
Sometimes, cutting punky wood produces powder, no-matter how sharp the chain is.:s0143:

I'd take the chain back to be looked at; sometimes, they mess up.

Learning how to touch up your chain between tanks of fuel will reduce wear on the saw, the clutch, sprocket, and chain.
 
I prefer a skip tooth chain on my saw. Less chain to sharpen.
If the saw shop uses a Silvey sharpening machine, it will grind a square faced cut and you will need to always keep going back to that shop to maintain that square profile.
 
I prefer a skip tooth chain on my saw. Less chain to sharpen.
If the saw shop uses a Silvey sharpening machine, it will grind a square faced cut and you will need to always keep going back to that shop to maintain that square profile.

Me too; which reminds me to mention that the sharpest chain will produce powder if the rakes are too high.
 
Another tip is to flip the bar over each time you sharpen the chain.
That will decrease the likelihood of uneven wear to one side of the guide rails.

If you're right handed, start sharpening the chain with the motor to your left, as that is generally an awkward position compared to having the motor to your right.

As stated before, count the file strokes as you go and try and keep the file as clean as possible and only apply pressure on the forward stoke, because you will dull the file teeth by "sawing" the file back and forth.

Stop working when you're tired, as I have had 48 stitches put into my left thigh from pushing myself to hard out in the woods. Do not sharpen the bottom dog tooth on the saw body.
That's what snagged my pants.

Funny thing about cutting yourself with a sharp chainsaw, it cuts two grooves into a leg and the emergency room doctor and I had a interesting discussion on whether it would be better to cut off the flap of meat left in the middle or just try a long single strand of suture thread with a sailor stitch looping back and forth.
He finally decided on the long stitch method and it sure felt weird when I went back to have it removed.
Left a heck of a scar.
 
Stop working when you're tired
Best advise there is for cutting of any kind.
But with a chain saw is more important.
I just cut down a big tree in my front yard to let the Maple tree have more light.
I'm 57 and in my youth would have benn to the top of the tree no problem.
This time I'm 10 feet above ground and decided I was done when I tried to lift the saw and it didn't go up.
Then I questioned what this old man was doing in the tree anyway,lol
Oh and if you aren't good with or are new with chain saws,just use a regular chain as the fancy ones bite more and will kick back easier.If you aren't familiar with them,don't try them.
And for any young guys out there,make enough money while you are young, so when you get old you can call the tree service instead of climbing trees
 
Round chains always suck. Chisel bit is the only way to go and they aren't that hard to clean up/resharpen with a file.

This! ;)

You can cut as much wood as a much larger saw if you are using a chisel chain and it is using a round (chipper) chain. It is like using an ax to cut down a tree instead of a maul. :)
 
When I cut cedar shake bolts for a living decades ago, I always had two extra chains with me.
It was a lot easier to switch chains then try to sharpen one out in the woods.
It's so much easier when the saws bar is held in a table vise and a cold beer is nearby.
 
Aren't chisel chains more dangerous? I use a green chain, cause I heard there safer.
Safety Chain incorporates devices that keep the teeth from engaging the wood while it is travelling around the end of the bar in order to reduce "kickback." These devices are not active except at the end of the bar. Safety Chain can be either chisel or chipper design, but there is little demand for chisel bit Safety Chain, so no one makes it. Experienced chainsaw operators know how to avoid or manage "kickback," and don't feel a need for Safety Chain. ;)
 
I prefer a skip tooth chain on my saw. Less chain to sharpen.
If the saw shop uses a Silvey sharpening machine, it will grind a square faced cut and you will need to always keep going back to that shop to maintain that square profile.

Me too!!! I love it when a saw is spitting chips & pulling on a big log just holding it & lettin it work!!!;)
 
Another tip is to flip the bar over each time you sharpen the chain.
That will decrease the likelihood of uneven wear to one side of the guide rails.

If you're right handed, start sharpening the chain with the motor to your left, as that is generally an awkward position compared to having the motor to your right.

As stated before, count the file strokes as you go and try and keep the file as clean as possible and only apply pressure on the forward stoke, because you will dull the file teeth by "sawing" the file back and forth.

Stop working when you're tired, as I have had 48 stitches put into my left thigh from pushing myself to hard out in the woods. Do not sharpen the bottom dog tooth on the saw body.
That's what snagged my pants.

Funny thing about cutting yourself with a sharp chainsaw, it cuts two grooves into a leg and the emergency room doctor and I had a interesting discussion on whether it would be better to cut off the flap of meat left in the middle or just try a long single strand of suture thread with a sailor stitch looping back and forth.
He finally decided on the long stitch method and it sure felt weird when I went back to have it removed.
Left a heck of a scar.

THIS POST Lets see that scar! Sounds like a doozy!

LOL!!!:s0122:
 
Last Edited:
Another tip is to flip the bar over each time you sharpen the chain.
That will decrease the likelihood of uneven wear to one side of the guide rails.

If you're right handed, start sharpening the chain with the motor to your left, as that is generally an awkward position compared to having the motor to your right.

As stated before, count the file strokes as you go and try and keep the file as clean as possible and only apply pressure on the forward stoke, because you will dull the file teeth by "sawing" the file back and forth.

Stop working when you're tired, as I have had 48 stitches put into my left thigh from pushing myself to hard out in the woods. Do not sharpen the bottom dog tooth on the saw body.
That's what snagged my pants.

Funny thing about cutting yourself with a sharp chainsaw, it cuts two grooves into a leg and the emergency room doctor and I had a interesting discussion on whether it would be better to cut off the flap of meat left in the middle or just try a long single strand of suture thread with a sailor stitch looping back and forth.
He finally decided on the long stitch method and it sure felt weird when I went back to have it removed.
Left a heck of a scar.


So should we call you chainsaw?
Worked with a guy who pulled a similar stunt cutting manzanita and he had to crawl to his house and fortunately his wife came out and found him before he bled out. We called him chainsaw or hop along for a year or two after that trick. The kicker? He was a plant operations chief and safety officer when at work (prison system) and would have chewed anyone's backside for not wearing full safety gear or not using enough caution.
 

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