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Discussion in 'Maintenance & Gunsmithing' started by JGRuby, May 8, 2013.
I am looking at a essex 1911 that has been nickel plated - can this be durakoted?
James my experiance with Duracoat tells me you would need to sand blast the nickel finish to roughen it up enough to give the Duracoat good purchase on the nickel. I redid a Rem 870 and did a 220 grit sanded finish on the receiver and on the bottom edge where the trigger assembly fits into the inside edges were not as well scratched up and with I put the assembly in and out a couple times soon after the coating had dried it chipped and flaked away from the metal. Once I went at the area with 220 again and redegreased it then the Duracoat held tight and I have had no problems.
Sharp edges like the 90 degree along the bottom of the slide on a 1911 would be an area of special consern and you would want to make sure that was well roughed up.
A decent 80-90 psi sand blaster with about 70-100 mesh silica sand would be ideal according to the very good instructions I received with my Duracoat.
I have no experiance with Cerakote.
Thank you for the info - I just wanted to ensure that I could have it done - I am under the impression that if I were to have the slide bead blasted then durakote would work well.
I have two 1911's that have been durakoted but have no knowledge of the process. I actually like the black durakote better than blueing because it lasts a great deal better.
My recommendation would be to strip the nickel before coating with cerakote. There is a decent product from Brownells you can use.
ROOM TEMPERATURE NICKEL STRIPPER | Brownells
Then the gun can simply be blasted and coated. No issues...
I just recently "Duracoated" a Rem 700 SS Action and Barrel. One thing that's VERY important and that's to avoid the urge to handle the firearm too soon.
Best bet is to apply sufficient Duracoat to the prepped surface and then put the item away to cure. Once it's cured for a month the stuff is like a relative you allowed to stay on your couch. It's pretty much there forever and even the edges are pretty durable if you got the film thickness proper.
For prep on the SS Barreled Action I just scrubbed it with a piece of fine scotch-brite pad (the abrasive body shop stuff, not the "no-scratch" stuff from the grocery store). The Duracoat is sticking like dried dog doo-doo on a carpet.
They are right.. have to strip the nickel first