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Check the rivets. Make sure all are well domed and not smashed and mangled. If they are, over time they'll losen up.

Unscrew the slant brake and check and see if there are any dings in the crown, fr there (if you have one) test a 14x1L muzzle device to make sure it has the right threads. Early wasrs didnt.. They had a funky 20 or 28x1/2 thread.

Next inspect for pitting

Check down the barel, make sure the rifling is strong.

Next take the gas tube off, check for rust. If any corrosive ammo was shot through it and not cleaned there will be rust here as well as the bolt itself. Also check the gas pistol head for damage, marring. If it has some that means the piston is hitting the gas block as it reciprocates. While this isnt a deal killer it should be addressed and potentially a price point changer.

If all that looks good, check the rear trunion, does it look well squared?

The sticky bolt isnt an issue, only when slowly and manually operating the bolt will it hang up, thats due to the bolt riding over and setting the hammer. This can be remedied, its not a big deal, however a pause before the bolt goes into battery can be troublesome down the road.

Lastly ask what kind of mags are included if he want $ for that. Korean mags are training mags at best.. They are soft metal junk worth around $8 per.
Tapcos again can be had for $10 or under.
Surplus mags can run $10-$20 depending on manf- Origin.
Magpul gen 1 $13
Magpul gen 2 $20-$25
Us palm $25-$30
Toth $25
Circle 10 $40-$80 (depending on color)
Bakelite $40-70 (depending on steel cages/feed lips, manf., capacity (40rnd being $$)

If all that looks good then yes, the rest can be fixed. Furniture condition doesnt matter you can replace that later.

AKs are getting up there in price, $500 is a decent deal. Even if you have to refinish it. $450 would be a solid price if the mags were junk (korean, tapco, promag)

Excellent!^^ I've bought only one AK, and spent a good time looking through on-line sights being that local stores only had on or two Century made. There's piece of mind in buying brand new, the least of which is the "New AK Smell". Mmmm
 
I recognize that rifle and pondered buying it myself. I have dealt with that seller before and can say that he is a pretty good kid. If I was more serious about an AK I would not hesitate to purchase it from him....but that's just my 2 cents
 
Looks like WASRs are going for $600 and up these days. In that kind of condition $400-450 would make sense to me. I just undervalue beat up AKs because it's so typical for people to abuse these with RPK drums and a lack of maintenance. $500 is probably a fair price but I'd personally just hold off and get a new one. All the advice you got about checking the crown for damage, gas system for corrosion, rivets for roundness and cracks, sights for straightness, magwell for wobble (maybe bring a proper steel mag if you think only aftermarket will be on hand) is good advice if you decide to go handle it in person.

A WASR is a factory AK with a CHF CL bbl so a lot of AK people would put it above most of the other options you have, especially US builds. Altogether, I prefer a good WASR over most Yugos, but I tend to put Saigas and Bulgarian Arsenals at the top of the pile. Truthfully a WASR that passes an inspection is pretty much toe to toe with the most expensive and "best" AKs. Henderson defense converts these to full automatic as FFL 07 (I think) and rents them out and they have several WASRs with insanely high round counts. The rifles marked WASR-10/63 have a slightly better reputation for QC than the previous batches marked WASR-10. I traded my WASR away at some point, and while I probably did "trade up," it was a solid rifle and I kinda regret letting it go! If this one passes your inspection and you can negotiate a slightly better price then I say go for it.
 
Check the rivets. Make sure all are well domed and not smashed and mangled. If they are, over time they'll losen up.

Unscrew the slant brake and check and see if there are any dings in the crown, fr there (if you have one) test a 14x1L muzzle device to make sure it has the right threads. Early wasrs didnt.. They had a funky 20 or 28x1/2 thread.

Next inspect for pitting

Check down the barel, make sure the rifling is strong.

Next take the gas tube off, check for rust. If any corrosive ammo was shot through it and not cleaned there will be rust here as well as the bolt itself. Also check the gas pistol head for damage, marring. If it has some that means the piston is hitting the gas block as it reciprocates. While this isnt a deal killer it should be addressed and potentially a price point changer.

If all that looks good, check the rear trunion, does it look well squared?

The sticky bolt isnt an issue, only when slowly and manually operating the bolt will it hang up, thats due to the bolt riding over and setting the hammer. This can be remedied, its not a big deal, however a pause before the bolt goes into battery can be troublesome down the road.

Lastly ask what kind of mags are included if he want $ for that. Korean mags are training mags at best.. They are soft metal junk worth around $8 per.
Tapcos again can be had for $10 or under.
Surplus mags can run $10-$20 depending on manf- Origin.
Magpul gen 1 $13
Magpul gen 2 $20-$25
Us palm $25-$30
Toth $25
Circle 10 $40-$80 (depending on color)
Bakelite $40-70 (depending on steel cages/feed lips, manf., capacity (40rnd being $$)

If all that looks good then yes, the rest can be fixed. Furniture condition doesnt matter you can replace that later.

AKs are getting up there in price, $500 is a decent deal. Even if you have to refinish it. $450 would be a solid price if the mags were junk (korean, tapco, promag)
Have you heard of google....try using it. You wouldnt have to ask so many questions.
Go to google, type in the search bar "contactor wasr"...first thing that pops up is an atlantic firearms ad for a contractor wasr
If it bothers you so much then scroll on by. Google has great info but real time opinions matter more to me than a general definition. Thank you for being so informative...yet not.
 
If it bothers you so much then scroll on by. Google has great info but real time opinions matter more to me than a general definition. Thank you for being so informative...yet not.
Not informative?
Hey pal, You asked what to look for when it came to value and if it was worth $500.
I told you the quick highlights of what to look for upon inspection, if any of those thing were off then you could talk the price down or walk away. Sight unseen with just a picture no one can know.
All you were getting was head nods or suggestions.

I also gave you current AK mag prices (depending on what mags were included) so you could potentially talk down the price if they were junk.

What the hell else were you looking for information wise if those points didnt help? Seriously? Just another head nod or suggestion for another rifle?

I dont know what else you expected man. Want one of us to hold your bubbleguming hand as you buy it? Good lord.

If you're going to be an a$$ and give a back handed comment about it why the hell should anyone help you?
 
Not informative?
Hey pal, You asked what to look for when it came to value and if it was worth $500.
I told you the quick highlights of what to look for upon inspection, if any of those thing were off then you could talk the price down or walk away. Sight unseen with just a picture no one can know.
All you were getting was head nods or suggestions.

I also gave you current AK mag prices (depending on what mags were included) so you could potentially talk down the price if they were junk.

What the hell else were you looking for information wise if those points didnt help? Seriously? Just another head nod or suggestion for another rifle?

I dont know what else you expected man. Want one of us to hold your bubbleguming hand as you buy it? Good lord.

If you're going to be an a$$ and give a back handed comment about it why the hell should anyone help you?
That response was directed at someone else. I don't know why it included your response. Sorry for the confusion. Your response was very helpful
 
From my own experience, the only AK I have ever owned, a WASR, was nothing but problems. The sights were true but it exhibited the magazine-wobble problem, and had that same issue where the bolt would seem to catch a little bit on the hammer while drawing it back slowly. Now I'm no expert, but the AK would not function reliably with any combination of ammo or magazines, and had the nasty tendency to "slap fire", which as I understand it, is where the hammer does not fully engage on the sear surface, and the motion of the bolt flying forward breaks the hammer loose of it's uncertain purchase on the sear. The result is two rounds fired with one pull of the trigger. This was remedied by installed a Tapco two-hook trigger group. But the rifle never did function properly, so I sold it with full disclosure of its issues. Not trying to dissuade you, just sharing my experience.
 
I appreciate the time it took to type out the many informative facts and opinions. I know I can turn to this place for intelligent conversation when needed. Thanks again.
 
I thought I would add I.O. makes American made Ak-47's I found the IO we have is better built then the Century Arms we have. Why some older first gen I.O. had minor issues the newer since 2013 after their move to ne facilities and allot changed, seem very well made I think due to manufacturing changes alone . We paid right around 675.00 Came with two I.O. Mags they make a higher end model at the time was about 900.00 and change. So did you purchase ?
 
I have 3000 rounds down a century yugo Npap I bought new for $550 2 years ago. It has had one malfunction I believe to be ammo as the primer was struck hard, but no bang. They can be good guns, but some can be crap. Choice was the Npap, or Wasr 10 for the same price. Mine will probably go for many thousand more rounds judging by how it has worn. For what that gun looks like it's been through, I would pay $450 after shooting/inspecting and thinking it's good to go with a lower round count. Of course, what's another $50 for someone like you who maybe doesn't have one or wants it more. If it had a higher round count and wear, I would probably pay no more than $400 because the price of a new Npap or Wasr now is $650 around my area
 
I talked it down to $360. A gunsmith took a very good inspection and revealed it was in excellent shape for being built in 1975. He reported no issues whatsoever. The exterior and cleanliness of the weapon was it's only issue. All could be soaked in solvent and pretty a day.
 

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