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I hacked the handguard on my 10.5" 300 blk. Twice! Once when converting it over from a longer 5.56 barrel, and then again for the same reason as you.

Whole gun got rattle canned so wasn't worried about the exposed metal.

Might want to look into something called "aluminum black"

Please do not fire again with a crush washer. That is a recipe to kill your can do to misalignment.

THIS!!! DO NOT shoot it with a crush washer! @Taco_lean is correct, lots of potential for things to go very bad for your can
 
If the suppressor seats on the crown of the barrel a spacer of any kind would be a big mistake. Either cut or replace the hand guard to provide proper clearance. There are products available to refinish the raw end of the hand guard as others have mentioned.
 
I'm leaning towards just replacing the barrel. I really like the hand guard and don't want to have a baffle strike from misalignment due to washers or something.
 
I've got the same one on my SBR 10.5" .300 Blackout.
I did some reading and found that a standard flash hider like your picture shows will contribute to accelerated erosion to the first baffle and by switching over to a brake cuts down the erosion issues by shunting a portion of the hot gasses sideways, instead of straight into the baffles.
Another tip is to hold down the release latch when attaching the can, because of accelerated wear to the ratchet pall, which can then lead to it not gripping as tight when snugged up.
 
I heard about barrel extension which is for this kind of problem but never had chance to give a try yet. So for 300BLK barrel it is 5/8 x 24?
or
 
Buy a shorter handguard or cut existing and finish raw aluminum with aluma black. I have cut several, not a big deal depending on vent holes /m-lok/keymod pattern. I wouldn't mess with spacers with that type of muzzle device.
 

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