Buying Liberty safe but split on Mechanical or Keypad...

[nammac]

I'm a mechanical, old school, dial, analog type spinner combination lock type guy. With practice, it's at least as quick as digital, with none of the "electronics failure" worries.

 

[P7M13]

I'm stealing this.

I think this phrase was used by speakers at the rally no less than 5 times.

 

[titsonritz]

I'm stealing this.

May as well, I did.

I think this phrase was used by speakers at the rally no less than 5 times.

Yes, sir.

 

[jbett98]

If you choose a simple to remember set of numbers like 30-40-55, you can zip through the dialing procedures rather quickly.

 

[2A2Dend]

Combinations can be changed to anything you desire, for simplicity.
Like changing your forum password, bank account, etc.
If you have the tool(s)

 

[3MTA3]

I like a combination dial lock with a key to let me access the safe quickly if I'm in and out of it during the day.


View attachment 562701

That's the same one I have and really like that feature.

 

[billdeserthills]

OK, so I've decided to get a another Liberty safe as I have a dealer withing 10 miles of my house, they deliver and they have great local support.

I have one each Mechanical & Dial safes currently, the bigger Mechanical safe is in my Shop with most of my weapons, the smaller dial safe is in the Master closet for quick access to my most often used guns. I like both but for some reason need a little nudge as to what direction to go with on this one...Thoughts?

Why not have both with a Doomsday Lock

or

 

[Pete F]

I like a combination dial lock with a key to let me access the safe quickly if I'm in and out of it during the day.


View attachment 562701

Doesn't the key defeat the purpose of the dial. Picking a lock is way easier than cracking a dial, or is there more to it?

 

[Pete F]

Why not have both with a Doomsday Lock

or

I do like the idea of the redundant lock, but have not seen any reviews. Since they are fairly new, I wonder what or if problems will crop up. The instructions for the dial are a little ridiculous:
OPENING YOUR SAFE USING THE COMBINATION LOCK

1. Factory combination is "50"
2. Please refer to your safe owners manual for your unique combination and carefully follow the instructions to open using the dial in the center of your lock
3. Turn dial RIGHT (clockwise), pass the first number in your combination FOUR times and stop on the FIFTH time, when the number line is fully lined up with the OPENING INDEX
4. Turn dial LEFT (counter-clockwise), pass the second number in your combination THREE times and stop on the FOURTH time, when the number line is fully lined up with the OPENING INDEX
5. Turn dial RIGHT (clockwise), pass the third number in your combination TWO times and stop on the THIRD time, when the number line is fully lined up with the OPENING INDEX
6. Turn dial LEFT (counter-clockwise), pass the fourth number in your combination ONE time and stop on the SECOND time, when the number line is fully lined up with the OPENING INDEX
7. AFTER YOUR NEW COMBINATION HAS BEEN DIALED INK TURN THE DIAL TO THE RIGHT AND STOP ON [0] AND TURN THE HANDLE OF YOUR SAFE TO OPEN (UNLOCK)
8. TO LOCK THE SAFE, CLOSE THE DOOR, ROTATE HANDLE TO LOCKED POSITION AND ROTATE DIAL 3 TURNS IN EITHER DIRECTION

 

[jbett98]

Doesn't the key defeat the purpose of the dial. Picking a lock is way easier than cracking a dial, or is there more to it?

The key just locks the dial from spinning.
When you want to get in and out during business hours or you're moving items in and out you can insert the key, turn the dial to zero and remove the key which locks the dial after spinning the locking bolts closed.
When you return, you just insert the key, turn the dial back to the normally open position and then spin the handles to access the safe.

 

[etrain16]

I have a Cannon safe with their "EMP" lock - electronic/mechanical combo. Day to day, I use the electronic because it's fast. But if the electronic fails, the mechanical is there. I've had the safe for 6 years now, not a single issue with the electronic lock, still running great.

I don't know if Liberty has a similar option, but I'd do the combo again in a heartbeat.

This is the exact lock I have:

 

[3MTA3]

Doesn't the key defeat the purpose of the dial. Picking a lock is way easier than cracking a dial, or is there more to it?

When the key is locked the dial can't move, so it gives three levels of security:

1. Key only so barely better than a locking cabinet
2. Dial only - very secure
   
3. Key and dial - most secure option

 

[2A2Dend]

Thanks for the post @etrain16
I'd be inclined to buy the lock to install, if able, rather than mess with buying a new safe.
I like the locking tech though!!

 

[thorborg]

Go for the mechanical, albeit usually you will pay a premium for them over the electronic ones. it may be worth it.
I didn't read all the post so pardon me if it was covered,
BUT, Electronics locks use solenoids* to actuate the locks. A well placed strong permanent magnet on the out side of most safe's will activate the solenoid operated bolts with its magnetism.
A short search will find U tube videos to see for your self how others have done it.

* Solenoid: noun: a coil of wire around an iron core; becomes a magnet when current passes through the coil sometimes moving the core, other times moving a contact operating a switch.

 

[ATCclears]

Mechanical.

As an aside, I had a great experience with North West Safe.
Northwest Safe Company - Gun Safes Sales and Moving - Home Page

 

[kritos666]

Go for the mechanical, albeit usually you will pay a premium for them over the electronic ones. it may be worth it.
I didn't read all the post so pardon me if it was covered,
BUT, Electronics locks use solenoids* to actuate the locks. A well placed strong permanent magnet on the out side of most safe's will activate the solenoid operated bolts with its magnetism.
A short search will find U tube videos to see for your self how others have done it.

* Solenoid: noun: a coil of wire around an iron core; becomes a magnet when current passes through the coil sometimes moving the core, other times moving a contact operating a switch.

^^ what that guy said.

 

[HB of CJ]

Respectfully ...

How can I say this gently. Total fail. What this means is that you are setting yourself up for a total failure and at the exactly the wrong time or place. Gun safes come in many different types and flavors. Try to forget the current hype about different mass produced cheapo gun safes.

Instead try to understand what you are attempting to do and how to do it properly. Think outside the failure box. Sit down with your private independent insurance agent and learn up on what constitutes a "REAL" safe and what is not. It is easy to get swept away with current hype.

Then ... find and interview a certified and license lock smith. Pay the interview bucks. Not cheap. The licensed lock smith may, (MAY) be able to learn you up on the reality of safes. What works. What does not work. Most if not all of the current retail "gun safes" are complete garbage.

Yep. What do you have to protect? Total value. Not just the guns. Consider EVERYTHING you may store inside that space. Consider you theft insurance. Is it adequate? It might just be better to relearn what you know about home security. A somewhat steep learning curve. Just me.

Respectfully.

 

[jyuzamas]

I have had digital for 15 years now and no problems. I change my battery once a year period whether it needs it or not. My eye are not as good as they were 15 years ago and I am glad i have digital because i dont think I can see the dial without glasses. I also went digital with my truck safe due to eye sight fading.

 

[kritos666]

Respectfully ...

How can I say this gently. Total fail. What this means is that you are setting yourself up for a total failure and at the exactly the wrong time or place. Gun safes come in many different types and flavors. Try to forget the current hype about different mass produced cheapo gun safes.

Instead try to understand what you are attempting to do and how to do it properly. Think outside the failure box. Sit down with your private independent insurance agent and learn up on what constitutes a "REAL" safe and what is not. It is easy to get swept away with current hype.

Then ... find and interview a certified and license lock smith. Pay the interview bucks. Not cheap. The licensed lock smith may, (MAY) be able to learn you up on the reality of safes. What works. What does not work. Most if not all of the current retail "gun safes" are complete garbage.

Yep. What do you have to protect? Total value. Not just the guns. Consider EVERYTHING you may store inside that space. Consider you theft insurance. Is it adequate? It might just be better to relearn what you know about home security. A somewhat steep learning curve. Just me.

Respectfully.

I didn't want to open this can of worms. However after A LOT of research. I found real safes cost $$$ I ended up with a much smaller one then planned, but have much more confidence in it, than I would have in my first 2 choices (liberty and rhino) Mind you this was 5 years back, things may have changed. Also, as mentioned security that is not a layered solution is lacking. Its not just one solid box, where is it located, how is it attached to the structure. (that is just the safe, what about the security of your home, etc) You will be better served in your research talking to folks that make security their living as opposed to folks at a box store. At then end of the day, you have to go with what you can afford, but make the most informed choice possible.

Just my 2 cents,

 

[DB is Here]

At then end of the day, you have to go with what you can afford, but make the most informed choice possible.

While I agree with this statement, I think we can also agree that "Buy once cry once' is often our best route.