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also, that seekins bolt seems a little pricey, for what appears to just be dual ejectors, but I haven't looked into them much. An $80-120 (depending on coating) Toolcraft will do just fine for anything casual.

As far as i know, even enhanced bolts like surefire, lmt, and jp don't really enhance accuracy. You need a bolt specifically mated for your barrels extension to really see the it make a difference. Some high end barrel builders offer that, but it's beyond my interests.
 
also, that seekins bolt seems a little pricey, for what appears to just be dual ejectors, but I haven't looked into them much. An $80-120 (depending on coating) Toolcraft will do just fine for anything casual.

As far as i know, even enhanced bolts like surefire, lmt, and jp don't really enhance accuracy. You need a bolt specifically mated for your barrels extension to really see the it make a difference. Some high end barrel builders offer that, but it's beyond my interests.
This is some thread gold for me. Got a whole topic it seems to dig more into before committing to that part. Thanks!
 
Whether its a DD, Noveske or an Oracle, ergos are going to be the same.
Disagree. DPMS produces crap. Shoulder a DD or a Noveske, they feel similar. Shoulder them 200x and you will notice the difference and which feels better, If you look closely at the design, the Noveske looks like a "parts off the shelf" build done at a very high level of quality control. The DD looks and feels like a high dollar custom rifle. I hear Noveske has better barrels than DD. I wouldn't know.
For example, I have two uppers, both 6.8 SPC. One I built and one pre-built. The one I built was el cheapo. The prebuilt was WOA and Geissle. The Geissle handguard feels great but the sucker is heavy. The el cheapo is a 1/4" smaller in handguard diameter but because of the weight, balances better. The Geissle is nicer on the bench, el cheapo way better in the field.
If you're just looking at plinking and home defense, buy a $400.00 pre-assembled, out of the box.:D
You can learn how it works, do all of your experimenting and it will go bang same as an $800.00
model. :rolleyes:

Now, you have a black rifle, you've taken the edge off of your urge and you can make more logical choices as to what you really want and need.:cool:
I bought a PSA upper with that philosophy. When I have the time will tear it down and rebuild because it is a crappy shooter, 2MOA on a good day, and very finicky about ammo.
 
What I was trying to say is, if you are anything like I was when I built my first AR, your choices will change as you become more and more familiar with the system. I found the AR system fascinating in it's flexibility and like most here ended up with a drawer full of extra parts as my desires changed.:(

What was meant by my suggestion was to start with an inexpensive, (basic) rifle, learn it and go from there. :)

Once you've been hooked by, "The Black Rifle" you wont stop at one. ;)
 
Disagree. DPMS produces crap. Shoulder a DD or a Noveske, they feel similar. Shoulder them 200x and you will notice the difference and which feels better, If you look closely at the design, the Noveske looks like a "parts off the shelf" build done at a very high level of quality control. The DD looks and feels like a high dollar custom rifle. I hear Noveske has better barrels than DD. I wouldn't know.
For example, I have two uppers, both 6.8 SPC. One I built and one pre-built. The one I built was el cheapo. The prebuilt was WOA and Geissle. The Geissle handguard feels great but the sucker is heavy. The el cheapo is a 1/4" smaller in handguard diameter but because of the weight, balances better. The Geissle is nicer on the bench, el cheapo way better in the field.

I bought a PSA upper with that philosophy. When I have the time will tear it down and rebuild because it is a crappy shooter, 2MOA on a good day, and very finicky about ammo.

LOL I was referring to the actual ergonomics which are going to be the same for all. But the "feel" of the components is something entirely different.
 
You might consider just paying the price and buying exactly what you want from a premium builder. Not me. I'm retired. If you buy a complete rifle you MAY not begin to collect expensive parts you may never use. The expense adds up.

Also building a precision AR15 requires some tools and gadgets. Expensive. Also a 100 yard bench rest. Also lots of time and enjoyment. Once you enter the gates of heck building AR15s you can never never go back. Too much fun.

hundreds of builds and many many rebuilds. Long ago and far away. :)
 
So by now I'm sure the OP has heard enough thoughts on "buying over building".

His OP and subsequent posts CLEARLY state he is looking to build. For various reasons but for the experience and education seems to be at the top of the list.

Sooooo.......how bout any further posts suggesting buying an off-the-shelf rifle NOT be made mmmmkay? :)

@Hueco keep us posted on your progress.
 
LOL I was referring to the actual ergonomics which are going to be the same for all. But the "feel" of the components is something entirely different.
And in referring to ergonomics, I am specifically referring to the "feel", as ergos are how the operator relates to the environment (and the tool). For example, shifting a 2oz weight from the receiver to the end of the handguard changes the ergonomics, and over time over time, significantly.
Carpal tunnel is a prime example. A small change in the angle of typing or holding the mouse, and no more carpal....
 
I know @Hueco is looking to go high end, but this thread seriously has me looking at the in package lowers in the safe thinking...

"I haven't put one together in a minute."

Now I'm looking on PSA for kits...
 
Huerco build ON; ignore some that's the hardest part. Take down pin detents are the hardest part, 3' spring into a hole with a 1/4" pin on top. Bar of steel with ten Super magnets on it might not find it. ESP. In shag carpet( shut up 'boomer') log cabin 1/4" gap flooring.

Go to Ar15performance and 6.8forums and read.
I have build four; minus 2 uppers assembled. Plus three with a friend, 5 with AR15 Performance barrels 1/2" for 5 @ 100yrds for five of those barrels. Mine had 3x9 Leopold scopes.All were 6.8 SPC ll.
Build tips post #30
Do Not over torque barrel
I have used cheap($68) round Al fore ends most were mid gas.
Use the adj.(no personal) exp. to adjust ejection to 3:30 to 4:30 pattern
Go slow ; Pm me if you need any tools except punches. YES on the torque wrenches and
Barrel nut/ torque tool sq. lug wrench.
 
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If you can wait, Black Friday sales are the route to serious savings on AR parts. Aero Precision has complete uppers for $300 off.
Oh, I can definitely wait. Most of what is on my list is out of stock at the moment anyway :rolleyes:

Will be looking forward to all the holidays between now and EOY for sales.
 
Ok here is a specific tip learned the hard way. When using the correct roll pin starter punch for the bolt catch pin only drive it in part way with the starter and finish with a ball end roll pin punch. The first time I did one I failed to see the starter punch face contacting the raised boss on the inside and left a dandy dufus mark.:confused:
 
Here's one:::I use a Lyman lead ingot and cut a "ledge" to 'back' the boss on the mag release
It's easy to hold it up against the boss as you start your pin. Also frog tape to protect finishes. I even cut the lead edge to "fit into" that dual boss of the mag release.
Then I bought the Mega lowers with a screw (instead of a pin) on the next builds.

This stuff is fun to do for me. JUST remember to take time,,, come back to it if it's not working in easy, like maybe tommarrow.....more thought /// no sorrow.
 
Bolt catch Roll Pin

1) Find a drill bit of the correct diameter.
You are using the smooth end (shank) of the bit for this.
2) Get the catch functioning while it is pivoting on the drill bit.
3) Tape off your receiver for protection from Bubba marks.
4) Move the drill bit slightly to make a pocket to start roll pin.
5) Put a piece of blue tape loosely over the pointy end of drill bit (to keep from flying out)
6) Oil roll pin (keep driving end dry)
7) Start roll pin with starter punch
8) Finish driving with standard roll pin punch (I used the shaved version for this particular pin)

Always check bolt catch function before driving the pin.
Check the roll pin for burrs, diameter, length etc to make sure you have a good one and the right one.
The roll pin chases the drill bit out using the above method.

You can use a punch for the temp pivot, but I like the drill bit better.

Tape :
A wild Bubba hammer strike or punch slip will cut right through blue painter's tape.
Put the blue tape down first for it's superior release qualities and then cover with duct tape to protect from Bubba damage.
 
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The takedown pin detents. It took me years to figure out how to get them in painlessly without actually stooping to buying the correct tools. I remember one lower where the front detent got launched 4X before I got it in. The bolt release roll pin too. Hold the pin with a pair of needle nose pliers in one hand and squeeze it in with a set of smooth jaw knipex pliers. 100% satisfaction no mars. And the gas tube roll pin. Ugh. Buy a set of roll pin punches.

Then I decided to stop being a dumbass.

Tools:

Receiver block
Get that magpul barrel wrench. Its great.
A decent stock wrench
Geissele reaction rod
The pivot pin tool (Amazon.com : Real Avid Pivot Pin Tool : Sports & Outdoors)
Bolt catch pin tool
(Amazon.com : Pridefend Bolt Catch Pin Install Removal Tool Kit Starter Punch in Tin Case : Sports & Outdoors)
Laser bore sight insert.
 
Rear Takedown Detent (set screw trick)
The last one I did, I tapped the bore 4-40 and used an 1/8" long 4-40 set screw to hold the spring and detent in place.
Some receivers are already tapped and can be used conventional or with the set screw trick.
Grease the detent tracks in both the takedown pins and the selector switch for smoother performance.
Note:
You may have to shorten the spring by the length of the set screw. I did not.
Smooth function will tell the tale.

Front Pivot Detent (hitch pin trick)
If you're not using the hitch pin trick, you just might have springs flying around the room.
I've used the blade trick, but this is stupid easy...
(again, grease that detent track)
 
Build your lower in a large box on your workbench. The box should catch the springs and/or pins you are going to launch and save you a lot of search time
Never do your build on a thick carpet;)

ETA: This pivot pin tool is worth it's weight in gold IMO
Delta Series AR Pivot Pin/Roll Pin Installation Tool : WHEELER ENGINEERING DELTA SERIES AR PIVOT PIN/ROLL PIN INTALLATION TOOL | Brownells

I have the Real Avid tool which make so much easier since I lost few springs.

Real Avid AR-15 Pivot Pin Tool
 

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