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Building an AR

Discussion in 'Rifle Discussion' started by m'kay13, Oct 20, 2008.

  1. m'kay13

    m'kay13 Boardman, OR Member

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    So, let's say I buy a stripped lower, what next?

    Spare me the details, but what are the key components needed to build an AR? I mean, are we talking about spending hours searching the web and online courses, looking for screws, springs, bolts, etc.? Or can it be done like a kit, as in A+B+C+D=EBR?

    Also, what is the cost involved for building an AR with factory new parts from retail sources?

    I just want to make sure I was not about to jump in over my head.
     
  2. wichaka

    wichaka Wa State Well-Known Member

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  3. SgtKashim

    SgtKashim Wilsonville, Oregon Member

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    You can get full kits, minus the stripped lower, from Del-Ton for $460 ish. M-aparts runs a little higher, but in the same range. Figure another $120 for a lower. These kits already have the upper assembled, all you need to do is put the lower together.
     
  4. Buddhalux

    Buddhalux Hillsboro, Oregon Active Member

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    Is there any particular reason why you want an AR? Since the Afgan and Iraq invasions ammo prices have more than doubled. I'm seriously thinking about getting an AK just so I have something "cheap" to shoot when I feel like "venting" 400 rds.
     
  5. sweetbeard

    sweetbeard Beavertown OreGUN! New Member

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    Cool people have AR's DUH ! :thumbup:
     
  6. Buddhalux

    Buddhalux Hillsboro, Oregon Active Member

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    And people with Barrett's are compensating! :p




    I'll give ya $20 for a couple of shots though. I never got the chance to fire one when I was in. They were brand new and only in SOC units when I was leaving the Infantry.
     
  7. ch139

    ch139 teh gehtoe Active Member

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    I'm a big believer in "you get what you pay for" and I tend to favor good stuff. To that end, I usually wind up buying Colt when it comes to ARs.

    There are a couple other good flavors out there though and I think the "best bang for the buck" right now is the complete LMT lowers. Dealer cost is $275, find an FFL that'll do something along the lines of cost +10% and you can be into a high quality complete lower for just over $300. Worried about an upcoming ban? At this point you have secured yourself a "pre-ban" serial number and haven't spent a ton-o-money. Best of all, you have high quality equipment at a very reasonable price.

    As far as putting it together. The lower is done. You will need to find a complete upper or assemble the parts to make a complete upper. That upper (whichever way you decide to go) snaps onto the complete LMT lower, you just need to add ammo to shoot.

    wichaka's offer is very kind; I'd take him up on it if you're looking to assemble the different various parts.
     
  8. m'kay13

    m'kay13 Boardman, OR Member

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    I'm looking at an AR because I hunt coyotes, not because I want to lay down 400 rounds.
    That said, thanks for the generous offer and the advice.
    Now I just have to clean a little space in the safe.
     
  9. SimonJester308

    SimonJester308 kitsap county Member

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    Watch out when you install the pivot pin detent and spring. Mine was a real hassle and had to dig out of my daughters inflatable plastic ball pit, of course after the wife went to walmart and bought 400 balls for it. Trust me use the tool! Might want to get a pack of spare small parts just in case.
     
  10. ZeroRing

    ZeroRing 26th District, WA Active Member

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    Speaking of tools... are there any "special" tools needed for assembly or is it just your standard tool box type stuff that's needed?
     
  11. coctailer

    coctailer Portland, OR/Hastings, MI/Vancouver,WA I run with scissors.

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    Roll pin punches arethe only special thing I use.

    I build them all day every day.

    Wierd thing is, I've never had a problem with the pivot pin detent. I mastered my own method that only uses needle nose pliers. Installs in 2 seconds, and I've never had a "flier"
     
  12. Capn Jack

    Capn Jack Wet-Stern Washington Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    Get the "Roll Pin Starters" for sure. Saves on the finish and keeps you from buggering up the holes.:( The larger (detent) pins I use a Chop Stick for a punch.:p