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I bought a complete lower, then mulled over buying a complete upper or building my own for quite a while. I finally decided to purchase a complete upper when I met a local vendor at the portland gun show that builds them. I like being able to support local businesses and I didn't have to make all the parts decisions. Lower was 240.000 and the upper cost me 460.00. I'm happy and not too disapppointed about building my own.
 
Build lower, buy upper. To start anyway.

I agree with Rix.

I suggest looking for a lower locally. You can get ANY mil-spec lower with ANY logo on it and you'll get the same results. I've built two lowers, a Sharps Mil-spec, and a Deleware Machinery, both basically no-namers. The Deleware fit nice and tight to my uppers while the Sharps was a little sloppy. They both functioned flawlessy. My neighbor bought a brand new M&P and the lower to upper fit was way sloppier than either of mine. The fact is, every machined surface of the lower has a dimensional tolerance. Meaning some fits are on the larger end of the tolerance and others are at the smaller end. Unless you have a micrometer or dial calipers to compare the width of the upper's lugs to the lowers channels, you won't know what you're going to get. Doesn't matter if you order a complete and brand new M&P, Bushy, Oly. You might get lucky and you might not. Other than the upper to lower fitment, they are all the same mechanically.
Find a lower locally for the same price or better than what they go for online and save yourself the shipping and transfer fees. I got mine for $79 & $89 plus bgc. Then get a perfectly functional kit of your choice from a business like Del-Ton. The standard rifle length gas system makes for a smoother shooter, higher velocity, and improved accuracy at greater distances, but if you want a carbine, I recommend a mid-length gas system. The felt recoil is not as smooth as the rifle length, but not as jerky as the carbine length. You can opt for all kinds of upgrades as well, like chrome lining or tacticool handguards. The kit comes with everything you need except the lower reciever and a magazine. But most importantly, have fun. If you discover down the road that you wish you'd built it different, sell it to finance the AR of your dreams, or preferably keep it and build another one. Heck build two, one rifle and one carbine.
If you keep it basic, buy a local lower, and buy a standard Del-Ton rifle kit, you can keep costs around $600 or less.
BTW the "rifle kit" comes with a fully assembled upper and there a few to choose from http://www.del-ton.com/ar_15_kits_s/1.htm
IMHO, get a mid-length rifle kit (heavy barrel), with a flat-top upper. The flat top upper is the most versatile for optics/ accessories. The heavy barrel can be converted to a dissipator if ever desired. M4 feed ramps aren't neccesary unless you're going full-auto. M4 contour barrels give you nothing but the "look" of an M4, the ability to attach a grenade launcher, and marginally less weight over a heavy barrel.
Everything else can be modified at your leasure (accessories), but the barrel is probably the most difficult to change out later.
 
After having built my own, I would have to say that the AR is one of the easiest rifles I've ever built... But then again, I've got tools and skills. Anyway, I'm planning on building another one. Based on what I've learned/experienced, here's what I would advise:

1) Buy yourself a stripped lower (there are only ~4 major manufacturers who make lowers and re-brand them for everyone else's trademarks)
2) Buy yourself a lower parts kit, and assemble into the lower
3) Buy yourself an upper assembly (Barrel, gas block, gas tube, already assembled and head-spaced into the upper). Decide on what config you want, there are many, many, many to choose from. Mate to the lower
4) You now have a "Base" on which to start with. Choose your components and accessories (bolt, bolt carrier, assemblies, rails, buttstocks, grips, etc....)
5) Make sure your specs are correct, and make sure you have the proper tools

Your limitation will be money and how much "tacticool" you want to build into your... build
 
sad, but bushmaster used to be really something, things changed.

build it all yourself, the fun is getting all the "just right" parts. I use aero precision uppers and lowers, fit and finish is good, lpks go in just fine.

if you are looking for real accuracy, buy a bolt gun. ARs can be just as accurate but cost so much more, whats the point?

If you want a fun plinker look at spending 600-800, if you want a nice accurate (target) AR look at spending a grand and up. It's your choice. Your money.
 
sad, but bushmaster used to be really something, things changed.

build it all yourself, the fun is getting all the "just right" parts. I use aero precision uppers and lowers, fit and finish is good, lpks go in just fine.

if you are looking for real accuracy, buy a bolt gun. ARs can be just as accurate but cost so much more, whats the point?

If you want a fun plinker look at spending 600-800, if you want a nice accurate (target) AR look at spending a grand and up. It's your choice. Your money.

im not a fan of bushmaster, but i definitely give them a lot of credit for a number of things. they were really the first commercial manufacturer to standardize the parts industry, producing in-spec parts with reliable consistency, AND affordable, under their QPI division.. and were basically the first commercial manfer innovating design. they pretty much single-handedly brought the platform through the 94 AWB- when everyone else just basically STOPPED commercial production, bushmaster jumped in and started producing compliant weapons, and launched one of the best gun marketing strategies i've ever seen.

who knows where the industry and market would be today without bushmaster. seriously.
 
I'm a newb when it comes to AR's and I decided to put one together from parts, at least the lower anyways. I got my lower and lower parts kit from Palmetto State Armory. Got the LPK first, when they were having a sale trying to clear out stock. I waited to get a lower on sale or during a group buy. Then I got lucky when PSA ran a Father's Day sale on lowers. Lower was 49.95 + $7 shipping + $25 transfer/BG check.(This was my actual Father's Day gift from my wife and son) I put the lower and LPK together myself with help from ar15.com. I used tools that I have at home, nothing special.

I now have two more PSA lowers that I got in trade for some work I will do for a friend of mine.

As for uppers...Right now I have 2 uppers on my list, 1-BCM and 2-Spikes
 
Just went ahead and bought a RRA complete. I was wanted the warranty for my first AR15. I am looking forward to Building one though. Thanks for all the advice. I can definitely use this for future reference.
 
Yeah. But the warranty is what I wanted.

warrantys are super over rated. if your gun has a problem, you can fix it yourself with less down time than sending it back to the manfer, who will likely have it for 2-6 weeks before telling you "there's nothing wrong with it, you've just been using bad ammo" and sending it back to you un-fixed.
 
Buy your first so you know how reliable they should be, then build your second. Buy BCM, LMT or Spikes tactical (or Colt if you want to spend money for the name) and you won't be sorry.
 
I built my lower and bought a complete upper. The lower is a SLR15 (CY6) with a PSA parts kit. The upper is a chrome lined 1:7 PSA upper. I couldn't be happier with it. I had a couple issues with it today that were caused by running it too wet, my least one I ran almost bone dry, and I had a failure to fire due to the trigger pin sliding out and the other was something I will not mention on the open internet. What I found was running it real wet had caused oil to fill in the grooves in the pins causing them to easily slide out. I dried the rifle off and the pins snapped into place and are now holding strong.
 
I built my lower and bought a complete upper. The lower is a SLR15 (CY6) with a PSA parts kit. The upper is a chrome lined 1:7 PSA upper. I couldn't be happier with it. I had a couple issues with it today that were caused by running it too wet, my least one I ran almost bone dry, and I had a failure to fire due to the trigger pin sliding out and the other was something I will not mention on the open internet. What I found was running it real wet had caused oil to fill in the grooves in the pins causing them to easily slide out. I dried the rifle off and the pins snapped into place and are now holding strong.

if your trigger pin is walking out it's because you put your hammer spring legs under it instead of on it. you basically cannot over-oil an AR... they perform best with lots of lube.
 
Nope, I don't think I could even put the legs underneath. Hammer spring is on top. I disagree with the oiling. The oil filled in the grooves on the pins and they were not able to hold in place.
 
Nope, I don't think I could even put the legs underneath. Hammer spring is on top. I disagree with the oiling. The oil filled in the grooves on the pins and they were not able to hold in place.

you could most definitely put the legs underneath- people do it all the time. i've fixed probably a half dozen similarly misassembled FCGs in the last few years.

and i can tell you with 100% certainty that your trigger pin is not walking out because of "over oiling." there's another problem that needs to be addressed.
 

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