DizzyJ

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I like to use matches and an “ove glove”.

Takes a little longer but I know I didn’t overdo it.

Plus I can light my Pall Mall at the same time.
 

DizzyJ

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All the annealing machines I've seen have a rheostat that varies the time the case is in the flame. And I can say for sure that time varies by a measurable time between something like .30 Carbine, 30-06, and .458 magnum and all calibers in-between. It's the temperature, not the time. Heck, even different lots and manufacturers can change the time by a second or so.
It’s a combination of heat and time.
 
I like the Annealeez (sounds like a Swedish sex lube from the 80’s… LOL!) because you load the hopper and it’s practically automated without having to manually handle each piece of brass.
Set it up, adjust time for temperature (I use Templiaq), load it up and let it go to town. You just need check the hopper once in a while. I originally bought the annealer for forming .30 Carbine to 5.7 MMJ/Spitfire as cold forming leads to split cases either forming or upon first firing. Works good.

 
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True, but the time establishes the temperature.

Depends on the quantity of a given temperature applied, which determines the amount of time required for the desired results.


Big flame applied equals less time, little flame applied equals more time…. someone must be going through a TON of matches!


:s0112:
 
Last Edited:

3MTA3

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I like the Annealeez (sounds like a Swedish sex lube from the 80’s… LOL!) because you load the hopper and it’s practically automated without having to manually handle each piece of brass.
Both machines are the same style, but the Mike's is a lot more expensive. The money is definitely there, but not sure if one does a better job than the other. The Mike's video showed several cartridges including 300 BO which needed a bit of accommodation due to length and minimal neck reduction. Annealeeze needs a special conversion kit, so that brings the total cost a bit closer still.
 

DizzyJ

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True, but the time establishes the temperature. My point was that the flame is a specific temperature, so the time the case is in the flame establishes the temperature but it is the specific temperature that is the important factor.
So does the power.
 

arrowshooter

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I also run a Mike's and set the time by turning off the lights and adjust the speed until the brass just starts to turn red then drop it.

I thought the water was used to cool the case so heat does not travel too far down the case. From my observation, this step is not needed since the brass starts to cool once dropped from the flame. The only time I can see heat travel as being an issue is if the flame was too cold making the duration too long thus heating the whole case up instead of just the neck.
 
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Both machines are the same style, but the Mike's is a lot more expensive. The money is definitely there, but not sure if one does a better job than the other. The Mike's video showed several cartridges including 300 BO which needed a bit of accommodation due to length and minimal neck reduction. Annealeeze needs a special conversion kit, so that brings the total cost a bit closer still.

Yeahbutt, “Annealeeze”…. Think of all the fun you can have mispronouncing that! You got nothing with, “Mike”.

:s0140:
 

arrowshooter

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Plus you can play "bow, bow, bow, chicka bow wow" music while annealing
It's got nothing to do with brass. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

6411bdee0e731303c1442fd33d3c572eae760d6f_1.jpg
 

ma96782

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Since you are only doing a couple of cases.
Annealing on the Cheap.


And, an even cheaper method.


Aloha, Mark

PS.......I got one of those (RE : Post #4). "Lazy" being my middle name. I've yet to baptize it.
 

3MTA3

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Since you are only doing a couple of cases.
Annealing on the Cheap.


And, an even cheaper method.


Aloha, Mark

PS.......I got one of those (RE : Post #4). "Lazy" being my middle name. I've yet to baptize it.
On that second video do you anneal until your fingers turn a light shade of red?
 

Koda

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Eric Cortina has a couple of youtube videos where he intentionally overheats brass to failure, its quite a bit I would say it would be pretty hard to screw up using a "poor mans" DIY method. I use a Lee case trimmer lock stud chucked in a drill for 5 seconds max and have improved my group size.

 
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I use the Giraud system made in TX.

Works very well. I like the large hopper, load up set and let’er run.

#1 thing with any system using a propane torch, get away from using the little camp type bottles. Use an adaptor and a large BBQ type tank. The little bottles as they run down will start to very the flow of gas, and your flame tip will drop. The big tank does not very enough to measure with the annealer in use.

#2 save damaged cartridges for sacrificial set up brass. Your going to nuke a few setting it up with the Templiaq.
 

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