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I'm looking to give my son a bore snake-type cleaning tool for Christmas.
Are they all pretty much the same, or do some rock/suck?
Any help is appreciated, to the extent that I will be watching for replies.

Many thanks, Rev
 
I prefer the kind that have a cable or plastic center, over the simple "string" type. Easier to push thru, quicker to get the job done rather than futzing around with.

Especially easier to use the cable type on firearms with any type of muzzle device as well.

I'll see if I can't pop up a link to what I use...

Otis ripcord is the type I use:


Looks like Sportsmans warehouse carries them as well.

Trick for a good clean is to let whatever one uses to clean set for a while. I've been doing a goodly shot of CLP, and letting it set overnight. Then pull thru a couple times the next morning.

They also are small enough (bagged) that I usually take a couple in the range bag. Run thru warm, with a quick shot of CLP, usually doesn't require follow up if shorter range sessions.

For our 5.45 rifles I use a dedicated set of .223 snakes, due to the corrosive primer salts. Even tho I clean them well (water, simple green & WD40), I don't want to risk any cross contamination to guns I don't "rinse" after use.
 
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Dem dang bore snakes is difficult to use on muzzleloaders....:eek: :D

I like the ones by Hoppes....I use 'em on my modern guns with good effect.
Every once and while I will wash 'em out ....I stuff them in a wore out sock to keep from becoming a tangled , knotty mess in the washing machine.
Andy
 
I have several generic brand bore snakes that were purchased from eBay, they have the pull string with the weight at the end and copper brush. They work just fine for me and I have never had any issues. I paid probably $5-$7 each.
 
I recently purchased a Hoppe's bore snake kit for my Henry .22. It comes with a small bottle of bore cleaner, gun oil and a handle. Packed in a compact nylon and velcro pouch. Cleans and protects all in the same stoke. My first time using one and it seems to work as advertised. There is definitely some resistance when pulling through the barrel. I did notice, when wiping down the outside of the barrel, that a small ring of goop from the bore gathered around the crown of the barrel. A quick wipe cleaned it up just fine.
 
I have both the Hoppe's and BoreSnake brands. I like them both. I have one .22 that the BoreSnake brand won't drop down - I kind have to push on it - but no complaints with either of them. The BoreSnake brand may be better quality, but not by a lot.

...

Trick for a good clean is to let whatever one uses to clean set for a while. I've been doing a goodly shot of CLP, and letting it set overnight. Then pull thru a couple times the next morning.

They also are small enough (bagged) that I usually take a couple in the range bag. Run thru warm, with a quick shot of CLP, usually doesn't require follow up if shorter range sessions.

For our 5.45 rifles I use a dedicated set of .223 snakes, due to the corrosive primer salts. Even tho I clean them well (water, simple green & WD40), I don't want to risk any cross contamination to guns I don't "rinse" after use.
Great point.

Even with fairly clean guns, I've noticed a difference it makes to shoot some cleaner down the barrel and let it sit for a few minutes before snaking. (MQTOC here we come!)

I don't shoot corrosive ammo much, but for one particularly dirty blow-back carbine, I have a separate snake set aside because the first pass through turns it almost black. Not using that nasty lookin' thing on any gun I care about.

Edit:
Oh yeah, I have an Otis kit that I bring when I'm travelling light. It's terrific. Tactical Cleaning Kit Costs a little more but I throw some large patches, a short brush and Q-Tips in it and I can clean about any gun with it. It's about the size of an Egg McMuffin. :)
 
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"I don't shoot corrosive ammo much, but for one particularly dirty blow-back carbine, I have a separate snake set aside because the first pass through turns it almost black. Not using that nasty lookin' thing on any gun I care about."

I am thinking about getting one just for that.
What solvent do you use? Water?
Does the old GI bore cleaner (comes in OD can with poison skull warning) work on corrosive residue?
 
I use simple green.

The regular simple green on our AK's, and the simple green "purple" on the AR's. I use the purple on the AR's as it doesn't cause that odd corrosion on aluminum which original simple green does.

Why not just just use all "purple" simple green for all? Have a lot of the original green concentrate...

Followed by hot water, all.

Followed by WD40, all. Bought the WD40 bulk, so have a bunch.

Use labeled spray bottles for all, they fit in a harbor freight tool bag with room for 2 thermoses and 2 spray paint cans (for steel plates) & rags & bagged snake & such.

The simple greens cut way way down on any follow up brush work I have to do is all. ie further takedown on the AK's after 3 range trips, or if they'll be put up for a long while. Then it's bore brush, shotgun brush for the gas tube etc.

The BCG's on the AR's I take down at home & sonicate in a 1:5ish solution of the purple. Usually keep that same solution 3 range trip cycles or so, unless sonicating anything with non-corrosive use.

Then WD40 the BCG parts. Lately followed with Lucas Oil brand aerosol chain lube (high molybdenum content) with good results.

Range & home (if needs be), all cleaning/water/WD40 is done over/in a 5gal bucket. Then dump that.

Sounds like a lot of work/time, but only takes about 15 minutes for 4-5 guns at the range/home (depending), and while sonicating am doing something else anyhow.
 
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