Bore brush?

[IheartGUNS]

Bronze vs nylon

Watched some yt videos, and why is it that some people are afraid to use the bronze brush? Some say its to harsh for the barrel and they don't recommend using it. I've tried both, and the bronze does a better job. The only crappy thing about the bronze brush is that they don't last very long. Also what do you think makes the bigger difference, the brush or the cleaning solution.

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[mjbskwim]

Well bronze is softer than steel or chrome lining,so I don't see what the problem is.
I would guess if you are using corrosive primed ammo,the cleaner would be more important.But with normal guns and ammo,I think most work pretty good.

Now get ready for all the rest of the comments cause no 2 shooters agree on cleaners.Kinda like motor oils

 

[Trailboss]

Bronze is fine for any firearm made after WWII and most made before. Much better than the nylon. Solvent is really important for lead and copper/brass dissolve.

 

[longcolt]

They also make those stainless steel brushes that are spun like a spring. They seem to work well to remove excessive deposits of lead in cylinders and chambers. I use them on occasion and they don't seem to scratch or damage the hardened steels that guns are made with. I will use them will a generous amount of shooters choice or something similar.

They will work when the bronze does not touch the build up of lead.

I do not run them down the barrel over the rifling.

 

[DoubleTapDrew]

Nylon brushes seem to work well on teeth. I think bores require something more aggressive like bronze.

 

[mjbskwim]

Hahaha
I like the nylon if I think I'm going to hit the bluing at all,but yeah.LOL

 

[simpleguy]

I use both........they both have a different purpose. I'm not a believer in the "it's got to be this way" way of thinking. Each cleaner has it's own purpose. I think it's a combination of the brush and the product, essentially there's no free lunch.

When I'm cleaning my guns I have a 4 step process.
1. Brass brush dipped in solvent(Hoppe's #9 or the like), 5-10 scrubs through, I start running patches and repeat until cleaned. This gets rid of powder residue and lead fouling.
2. Nylon brush with a copper solvent(note: copper/brass solvents are amonia based and eat brass brushes), 5-10 scrubs through, I run pataches and repeat till cleaned. This gets rids of copper deposits/fouling.
3. Oily patch run through the bore, this replaces any residue left over from the above processes.
4. Run a dry bore mop down the bore.
Done.

 

[deadshot2]

If brass brushes are hard on a barrel, just think how much damage those jacketed bullets are doing to the bore

I like to run a hoppe's soaked brush through the bore 15-20 times before any other cleaning begins. This loosens most all the crud and gets down to any copper fouling that might be in the bore.

A patch to clear out the Hoppe's and any loose sludge.

Then either some Gunslick Foaming bore cleaner, a 30 minute "soak" then patch until they come out clean. If I think I have some severe copper fouling, a good application of Sweet's 7.62 and a 30 minute soak. After the Sweet's it's a patch or two of Hoppe's to clean the ammonia laded Sweet's out of the bore. Then patch until clean.

The bore comes out looking like a freshly finished, brand new barrel.

After this process the "cold bore" shot is 1" high and 1/2" right. Every shot from there on is dead on as long as the wind and shooter cooperate

If those "bronze brushes are too harsh" people were right, my barrel should have been worn out at least 2 years ago.

I even use them for cleaning the necks of my cases after they are worn a little from cleaning the bore.

 

[halmbarte]

I think of nylon brushes as a really good way of spreading oil or solvent in the bore. If you've got hardened crusties in the bore, you're going to need a metal bristle brush and solvent to get that out.

I don't get too wrapped up in trying to make the bore spotless. It's only going to get dirty again the next time you shoot. OTOH, if you get the bore wet with solvent while the gun is still warm from shooting, the solvent will have a real good chance of keeping the fouling from getting hard enough that you need to scrub it out.

H

 

[G1GRANDEUR]

nylon brush can be handy with patch wrap around.

 

[Greenbug]

After proper barrel break-in on a rifle, I seldom ever have to use a brush of any kind, just a good fitting patch. If I do use a brush, the type depends on the kind of solvent I am using. For copper removing solvents I will use a nylon brush. The more aggressive copper solvents will eat a bronze brush and give you false positives on remaining copper in your barrel (green/blue patches). For barrel break-in I always use a bronze brush. I would not use a stainless steel brush in my bore ever. The stainless steel brushes are cylinder/chamber brushes, they say so on the package, mainly for use in removing heavy carbon deposits in revolver cylinder chambers.

 

[longcolt]

After proper barrel break-in on a rifle, I seldom ever have to use a brush of any kind, just a good fitting patch. If I do use a brush, the type depends on the kind of solvent I am using. For copper removing solvents I will use a nylon brush. The more aggressive copper solvents will eat a bronze brush and give you false positives on remaining copper in your barrel (green/blue patches). For barrel break-in I always use a bronze brush. I would not use a stainless steel brush in my bore ever. The stainless steel brushes are cylinder/chamber brushes, they say so on the package, mainly for use in removing heavy carbon deposits in revolver cylinder chambers.

Yes, and that is what I said too, that I don't use them in the bore. Only to handle leading issues.

 

[Misterbill]

Your barrel is hardened steel. Anything softer than that is going to be just fine. Pick your poison, it doesn't really matter. Personally all my brushes are brass. I'll let you know when I have an issue. So far, 30+ years and no issues.

 

[coop44]

mostly brass/bronze and a few nylon brushes, because the store was out of brass at the time.

btw your barrel is not hardened steel. It has to have some "give". I have drilled enough and chambered enough, never had one that was as hard as a reciever to drill.

I would not use a stainless brush on anything other than a stainless bore or a chrome lined one.

Btw I have had really good results using electrical cleaning methods. A bit more work, but absolutely no wear on the bore.

 

[Mark W.]

It is how ever good form to use a bore guide or to be very careful of rubbing the cleaning rod against the very end of the muzzle and the last of the rifling. Since the last 1/2" of the rifling is the most important to accuracy you want it to remain as close to new condition as possible for as long as possible. I will try to use a rod much smaller then the bore and then use a soda straw or if there enough room a Boreguide like this:

Pro-Shot Brass Muzzle Guard 22 to 26 Cal Rod

to protect the end of the rifling.