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Hey there NWFA'ers!

Assembled my 1st AR pistol build and day 1 at the range is in the bag.

I used an Anderson lower and a Oregon Rifle Works upper, Toolcraft NiB BCG w/ 158 Carpenter steel bolt, Radian Raptor Charging handle, Phase 5 EBRV3, Ballistic Advantage Hanson series 10.3" barrel, and the Maxim CQ-B brace.

When firing a single round from a variety of mags (PMAG, Lancer, steel, etc) the bolt locks back after the case is expelled. When firing more than 1 round from the same mags, the bolt does not lock back.

Buffer spring? Over/under gassed? EBRV3 needs an adjustment?

:):):)
 
I am not sure I understand the question. It should only lock back when mag is empty.

I'm sure he is talking about on the last round after shooting the rest.

First thing I'd look at is the gas system, is the the gas block loose or improperly aligned? Is it pinned or the barrel dimpled with knurled set screws and red loctite? Is the the gas tube aligned properly with the carrier key? Is the bell end if the tube damaged? Is the carrier key loose?

That said I am no fan of NiB BCG or that Phase 5 thing, your issue could easily be one of those items. After ruling out the gas system with zero results I'd be looking there next. I'd ditch the BAD with a standard bolt release, do you have a spare bolt or one from another weapon? What buffer weight are you using.
 
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run it without the battery assist device.....no offense meant but those things suck in my experience and cause issues with the bolt catch....

The issue with that is it is integral so he needs a standard bolt catch to replace it. Also, despite what some say, roll pins are intended to be a one time use item, but I agree, this my be the what the problem is as I mentioned above I'd replace it with a standard bolt catch just to rule it out.
 
I had a bad lever on one build that caused bolt lock as well as override the bolt lock feature..

I was about to write off bad levers altogether until I put it on another build. It functions exactly as it should on the current AR I have it on. I agree with @oli700 try it without the BAD lever and see what happens.. if thats it, ditch the bad lever. They always sell on here anyway so you can trade sell for other gear.
 
I asked the same question that had a Nickel Boron BCG and I was using the black nitride ones. I took the NiB apart and lubed it up. Shot about over 700 rounds now with my NiB one. Sure stays a lot cleaner that my black nitride ones.
 
I had a bad lever on one build that caused bolt lock as well as override the bolt lock feature..

I was about to write off bad levers altogether until I put it on another build. It functions exactly as it should on the current AR I have it on. I agree with @oli700 try it without the BAD lever and see what happens.. if thats it, ditch the bad lever. They always sell on here anyway so you can trade sell for other gear.

My one lower with a chrome lined barrel had the same issue with the bad lever. I bought a Phase 5 single piece lever for the lower instead.

Phase 5 // Extended Bolt Release V3 (EBRv3)

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Contrary to popular belief those B.A.D. levers are not drop in. For optimum reliability, they should be fitted and tuned to your lower.

I know there are many opinions on this, but don't use a thin oil for lube. Use something with some viscosity which allows the BCG to glide on the rails.
 

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