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I want to try some longer, heavier bullets in my new 6.5 Grendel, it's a Howa Mini-action bolt gun. Got a good set of Redding dies, but the bullet seater is the Competition Micrometer die, and the instructions are pretty adamant about NOT using it with compressed loads, something I'm finding hard to avoid with some of the longer bullets, especially at mag length OAL. Can someone recommend an alternative that will work instead, and still let me load high precision rounds? The goal is long range, out to 1000 yards I hope, eventually. Thanks.
 
I am using extruded rod powder (IMR3031) for my 62g AR rounds and they are compressed loads. I found that after weighing I remove the case from the press & and lightly tap it in my bench top to settle it down. Not a conventional method but it works for me on my Lee turret with Lee seating dies.

Good luck David
 
Not an exact answer to your question, but are you using a long funnel to drop the powder? This will allow the powder to settle better without needing as much compression.

Also, as mentioned, tapping the cases, or better yet, setting them on a vibrating platform of some sort will often negate the need to compress.
 
I'm not a fan of compressed loads for a number of reasons. If you aren't already using one, you may need to switch to a ball propellant to avoid compression. Ball powders tend to have a higher density that doesn't involve as much volume for the weight. The previously suggested tapping of cases to settle powder isn't unconventional at all, commonly used but I find ways to avoid it in the first place.
 
I'm not a fan of compressed loads for a number of reasons. If you aren't already using one, you may need to switch to a ball propellant to avoid compression. Ball powders tend to have a higher density that doesn't involve as much volume for the weight. The previously suggested tapping of cases to settle powder isn't unconventional at all, commonly used but I find ways to avoid it in the first place.

I tend to agree, but this is by way of an experiment, with a bit of expediency thrown in :rolleyes:. Powder in question IS ball, CFE 223, and bullet is a 130 gr. Nosler RDF in a 6.5 Grendel. My plan is to run two different batches of test loads, one at published COAL of 2.26", the other at .020 off the lands of my rifle, 2.38". This is the highest BC bullet I have or have found for this rifle, and the CFE gives the highest velocity with it, if I can live with the compressed load. Per Nosler's data, the max load at 2.26" gives 110% case fill, I haven't worked with compressed loads enough to know it that's going to be problematic. But at this point, my main concern is damaging an expensive seating die, thus the question. Later, and thanks to all for your responses.
 
Powder in question IS ball, CFE 223,

Okay, you got me on that one. BUT: Realize that compared to other ball powders in its approximate burn range, CFE 223 takes a greater charge by volume. I've worked some with CFE 223 ("the Green powder") and it is not one of my favorites. I've noticed that by using a charge in the middle of the range recommended by Hodgdon, my result was a pretty hot load. Also, this is the dirtiest rifle powder by far that I've ever used. So now I've only got 6-1/2 pounds to go and would gladly trade it for just about anything in a similar burn range, ball or stick.

Having said that CFE 223 calls for greater charges than similar ball powders, I will say it also generates a bit higher velocity. And pressure. When I'm shooting semi-autos, I can feel in the mechanism when I have a hot load. My mid-range load of CFE 223 in .223 Rem. fired in an AR I could tell was battering the rifle compared to my typical mid-range loads of 748 or 335.

Strangely enough, I had a similar experience with CFE pistol. I loaded some .38 Super using middle of the range Hodgdon online data. Pretty hot loads, I discontinued using CFE Pistol in .38 Super, set the bottle aside for a year or two, then tried it in .45 ACP with acceptable results.
 
;)
Okay, you got me on that one. BUT: Realize that compared to other ball powders in its approximate burn range, CFE 223 takes a greater charge by volume. I've worked some with CFE 223 ("the Green powder") and it is not one of my favorites. I've noticed that by using a charge in the middle of the range recommended by Hodgdon, my result was a pretty hot load. Also, this is the dirtiest rifle powder by far that I've ever used. So now I've only got 6-1/2 pounds to go and would gladly trade it for just about anything in a similar burn range, ball or stick.

Having said that CFE 223 calls for greater charges than similar ball powders, I will say it also generates a bit higher velocity. And pressure. When I'm shooting semi-autos, I can feel in the mechanism when I have a hot load. My mid-range load of CFE 223 in .223 Rem. fired in an AR I could tell was battering the rifle compared to my typical mid-range loads of 748 or 335.

Strangely enough, I had a similar experience with CFE pistol. I loaded some .38 Super using middle of the range Hodgdon online data. Pretty hot loads, I discontinued using CFE Pistol in .38 Super, set the bottle aside for a year or two, then tried it in .45 ACP with acceptable results.

I too use CFE223 & CFEpistol, with both powders I generally get the best results from the lower end of the suggested load data.
I'm going to sell the remaining 2# of CFE223 (it's nasty stuff) and go back to IMR3031.;)

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Last Edited:
Thanks for the follow-up, guys. I changed plans, side-stepped the whole compressed load issue by using TAC in place of the CFE 223. I did load some lighter bullets with it, but the results were inconclusive for a combination of reasons. Bottom line, I'll be doing some retesting, both my rifle and my chronograph were giving questionable results. The bummer is, I'm running out of shooting season, if I don't figure out some good loads soon, I'll have to wait until next spring. Later.
 
I believe many of us didn't really address your original question, which was "best seating die". I like the no frills Lee seating die, I've been loading .223 for 3 years so far in my Lee turret with no issues with slight compressed loads.

Good luck out there.
 
I know about running out of "shooting season." Even in older age, I spend too much time catching up on other projects that like better weather. As a result the shooting takes a back seat. But these things usually aren't planned that way.

Just my own experience of powders in .223 Rem., not 6.5 Grendel. Ball powders meter well but tend to be dirty. I like 748 and H335. I like stick powders because they tend to be cleaner, especially the newer production lots. Top of the list is H332, which is a stick powder with very small kernels so it meters about like a ball powder but it's application isn't best for heavier .224 bullets. Another good one is IMR 8208 XBR, relatively new powder. I've used IMR 3031 and 4895, both good. Surprisingly, some of my best accuracy in a bolt gun .223 came from loads using IMR 4320, which is kinda slow for the cartridge. Meters very well. Hodgdon Varget is about the same burn rate as 4320, has produced some very accurate loads but is a bit bulky. IMR 4166 didn't work out for me, kernels too fat and would bridge in the powder drop tube. Works well in .308 for gas guns. I've talked about CFE 223 in a post above, won't use it again unless I run out of everything else. What I have of it now is a reserve powder.

I don't know for a fact if the following is true or not. "I got it off the internet." As you know, Hodgdon distributes IMR powders. What I read was that 8208 XBR was a failed batch of H332. Both made in Australia. So Hodgdon branded it as an IMR product. Look at the data, very close. Look at the powder, they look alike. Could be true.

Yes, I never mentioned anything related to seating dies. In my experience, they all work about the same for strictly bullet seating. If a crimp is going to be used, I do it in two steps, seat first, crimp again as another process. Even with bullets lacking a cannelure, I often give a gentle taper crimp to get the edge of the case at the mouth completely flush with the bullet sidewall.

Compressed loads. As I said earlier, I avoid them now. But in the past, I've had some that after seating a bullet, the compressed powder actually pushed the bullet partially back out of the case.
 
I tend to agree, but this is by way of an experiment, with a bit of expediency thrown in :rolleyes:. Powder in question IS ball, CFE 223, and bullet is a 130 gr. Nosler RDF in a 6.5 Grendel. My plan is to run two different batches of test loads, one at published COAL of 2.26", the other at .020 off the lands of my rifle, 2.38". This is the highest BC bullet I have or have found for this rifle, and the CFE gives the highest velocity with it, if I can live with the compressed load. Per Nosler's data, the max load at 2.26" gives 110% case fill, I haven't worked with compressed loads enough to know it that's going to be problematic. But at this point, my main concern is damaging an expensive seating die, thus the question. Later, and thanks to all for your responses.
It's a good question and I wish you the best of luck at finding the best answer. Good luck with your long range shooting endeavors as well... I personally would just be using a good ol RCBS seater, but to each their own...
 
The seating die means nothing. It's the seating stem that does the work and a proper fit means it can also reduce run-out. All seating dies can easily handle compressed loads. The best thing to do for compressed loads is to get a powder funnel with a load drop tube.
See:
Forster Blue Ribbon Powder Funnel with Long Drop Tube
 
All seating dies can easily handle compressed loads.

Not according to Redding, they specifically state that compressed loads will cause a specific type of damage that is NOT covered under warranty. As it's a $140+ die, I have no desire to break it :rolleyes:. Of course, I'm one of those weird types that actually READS all the documentation that comes with new tools ;). Later.
 
Not according to Redding, they specifically state that compressed loads will cause a specific type of damage that is NOT covered under warranty. As it's a $140+ die, I have no desire to break it :rolleyes:. Of course, I'm one of those weird types that actually READS all the documentation that comes with new tools ;). Later.
Oh come on, are you going to believe a little piece of paper or noylj?
 

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