Best Powder check die

[iGun]

Static might be a cause but a bigger cause is the failure to clean the case neck of all lube or crud. On necked cases lube is almost always used for sizing, neck turning, expanding, etc. If it isn't properly cleaned out it can cause powder granules to stick and in turn the powder check "plunger" will stick. What AMProducts mentions about cleaning the plunger holds equally true for any cases where lube was applied inside the neck.

That makes sense. Teflon (PTFE) can become statically charged very easily.

 

[AMProducts]

Static might be a cause but a bigger cause is the failure to clean the case neck of all lube or crud. On necked cases lube is almost always used for sizing, neck turning, expanding, etc. If it isn't properly cleaned out it can cause powder granules to stick and in turn the powder check "plunger" will stick. What AMProducts mentions about cleaning the plunger holds equally true for any cases where lube was applied inside the neck.

This is a major reason why I recommend a wash, lube & size, wash, tumble, then load procedure for all bottle necked cases. Having lubricant left on the case just attracts dirt, grit, and depending on the lube used can tarnish the case. If you want pretty factory-looking reloads, tumble them clean before loading. Steel pins work (if you want to combine the wash/tumble into one step), jewelry mix also works, some people use the really small ceramic beads. The main thing with the steel pins, is applying an anti-corrosion coating during or after water bath.

I've used a few different product for wet-bath burnishing and protecting, Miractec CP does a good job, however I now only use the wet bath with a water based alkaline solvent (purple power) to clean the lube off, and prefer burnishing with corncob with a wax based preservative. It adds a good deal of lubricity (if it's carnauba/paraffin based) to the surface of the shell, and also makes the surface hydrophobic.

Corrosion Inhibitors

 

[M4 AR]

I use the powder check only as another safety check. I use an led light kit, check the powder cop, and visually look into each case. I'm not setting any production records, load roughly 200-250 rounds an hour. Which is fast enough for me.

As far as powder sticking to the plunger. Bullseye has been the main problem.

I have cleaned the plunger, wiped it w/ dryer sheets. Not sure if its just the static in my house?

 

[Janes]

I just received my lockout die and found out that it will not work for the 223's. I there something elese that will check the powder on the 223's?

 

[iGun]

I just received my lockout die and found out that it will not work for the 223's. I there something elese that will check the powder on the 223's?

Ah crud. Did you tell us that you were loading rifle cartridges? If so, sorry about that. The RCBS lockout die only works on pistol cases.

For .223, you don't need to worry about a double charge since that much powder won't fit. There is a Dillon powder check system, but there are mixed opinions on it. I don't use a powder check for .223/5.56mm reloading and have yet to see a squib charge. But I still keep an eye out for the powder level in the case.

 

[Janes]

No I didn't tell you that If was reloading 223's I asked if the lockout die will fit all. I guess that I should have told you that I was reloading 223's Even on the website it doesn't say what it will work on. So I will just keep an eye on the powder charge.

 

[deadshot2]

Here's an alternative to a powder check die that works pretty good.

At $149 it's more expensive than a plain die but it also does a lot more. Can be set up for just about any progressive press and will remind you if you "short stroke" or on the presses where you have to manually advance the shell plate, remind you to do so.

It comes with an LED light that you can position where it's best to view the cartridge and coupled with a mirror, can even allow one to see down a deep case even if their eyeball is below the level of the case mouth.

It can also be programmed to tell you how much powder you used in a session.

I've had one on my XL-650 for over a year now and find it to be great. If I fail to push the handle forward (usually when distracted) and not seat a primer, it beeps, flashes the light, and just about calls me a "dumb@ss" for not paying attention

It also reminds me how many rounds I have produced since the last press maintenance. Kind of like an "odometer" that tells me it's time for an "oil change".

No, it doesn't check the powder charge but it does monitor the steps that are the primary cause of no-charge or double charge.

Lastly, it keeps track of number of rounds per session, rate per hour, and if you get on a "tear" and go too fast it warns you of that too. Going too fast on a progressive usually means insufficient time for powder to flow through the funnel and the likelihood you'll break something.

 

[Janes]

Thanks, that is really impressive. I watched the video and it does a lot of things. May just have to buy one some day.

 

[deadshot2]

Thanks, that is really impressive. I watched the video and it does a lot of things. May just have to buy one some day.

It took me at least 6 month's of "should I? Or no, I'll pass." Couldn't be happier that I went ahead.

 

[Janes]

Does anyone use a LED ligth to check the powder charge in 223's? I bought a LED light and a small mirror, but was unable to see down into the casing. With the powder that I am using if I double charge it would spill out and I would know, but with an underchage I can't see into the casing. Right now I don't want to buy the monitor press. Is there another way to check this on an Dillon 550 press?