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I am a 1911 guy and I recently bought a Keltec Sub2000 that takes Glock mags so I am thinking about building a Glock from a Polymer 80 frame. The problem is that every Glock I've tried I haven't liked the trigger. So while I know I won't be able to get as good as a single action, what can I do to make it better?
 
I'd get the best Trigger Kit I could find and go from there. But, I've always chosen to Start with a real Glock. I personally, don't see the point in the 80% Frames.
 
I'd get the best Trigger Kit I could find and go from there. But, I've always chosen to Start with a real Glock. I personally, don't see the point in the 80% Frames.
That's what I'm planning, I just don't know what the best trigger kit actually is. As for why a Polymer 80 frame, it's for too reasons, the grip angle is supposed to be close to a 1911 and if I'm going to replace a bunch of stuff eventually anyway I might as well start with what I want to begin with.

personally I've never encountered a 'good glock trigger'....I've heard of them but never actually encountered one.
This is what I've found too, but for thin, light, and standard capacity it's hard to beat. Especially considering the availability of 30+ round magazines for the carbine.
 
I suggest you take a look at the Brownells Catalog and website for some of the answers. Of course, if you ask 10 different people which trigger they like best, you just might get 10 different answers. I don't mind the Glock grip angle but the Glocks have been the only automatics I've ever dealt with that run perfectly from the very first round and then keep on running and running.
 
Glocks have been the only automatics I've ever dealt with that run perfectly from the very first round and then keep on running and running.

that part of the Glock mystique may well be true; all the ones I've had were 'reliable' mostly....
on the other hand, despite multiple intense training periods over the years I was unable to adapt to their needs;

In most of my range, I've come to expect "minute of peach pit" at 50' being attainable goal; with Glock I could never count on better than "minute of pumpkin" groups in any caliber. Yes, I've heard all about 'combat accuracy'.....I was raised on 'bullseye accuracy' as the goal....Don't mistake this for 'blaming the instrument'; I just don't play it very well. Part is the trigger, which I came to utilize pretty well; part is the grip angle; and part is the preternatural light weight & screwy balance. YMMV. To each their own.
 
Don't mistake this for 'blaming the instrument'; I just don't play it very well. Part is the trigger, which I came to utilize pretty well; part is the grip angle; and part is the preternatural light weight & screwy balance. YMMV. To each their own.
Well said. I happen to shoot Glocks pretty darn alright. I got my first Glock from my dad who despite being a respectable shot, couldn't get used to it and hated it for years while everyone told him it was the best thing since sliced bread. I happened to love them and have acquired a number more over the years. Not for everyone, but I sure like them.

To the OP, I'm sure you've surfed the web and come up with a million different opinions, so I figure I'll add mine in the mix. I haven't had great luck with aftermarket trigger components. I've tried the Haley Skimmer and various Lone Wolf and Ghost components and have always returned back to stock for reliability and safety. Many trigger assemblies will defeat some of the built in safety mechanisms and allow the pistol to drop fire. Also, once you start changing the shoe, connector, and various springs, not everything works in concert as intended. That being said, I do have some interest in the Overwatch Precision TAC trigger which uses an OEM trigger bar and NP3 plated OEM connector. If I was building a frame from the ground up, I'd probably go that route.

I have come to prefer the Gen 4 dot connector in all my Glocks for the best combination of acceptable pull weight with a cleaner break. With Glocks I've come to accept them for what they are. I think the trick triggers are fine for range guns but I will never trust them 100%. I've experienced and seen too many problems with aftermarket assemblies. As the poster above said, YMMV.
 
I'm a Glock guy and compete with Glocks. I know Glock triggers really well.

1) On a stock trigger I switch out the trigger return spring to a 6lb. Then I like the Ghost disconnector. $25. I put this setup in every Glock. My competition Glock 17 has this setup--plus 2000+ rounds to smooth it all out--and it is my favorite trigger. But there's no shortcut to lots of rounds.

2) I also run a Zev Fulcrum Ultimate, with the striker and the whole deal, on my Open gun. $240. It is definitely a shorter, lighter trigger. But I wouldn't call it better.

But Glock triggers of any variety aren't wonderful.
 
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.25¢ trigger job is about as good as it gets with Glock triggers. When you start messing with springs and connectors I haven't seen much improvement for the cost and also decreases the reliability and safety.
 
reviving this thread, because I can't seem to find where I want to be. The reset in my Glock 19 is super long. I have a Zev connector currently. The pull isn't so much an issue, but that the travel is super long and break is squishy.

There are SO many aftermarket trigger options. I have no interest in an unreliable combination. I don't want to spend $200 on a ZEV fulcrum if it isn't going to achieve the results I want. I called a gunsmith and he wasn't much help. Anybody have suggestions?
 
I'm also still interested, I couple AR projects and unrelated projects got moved up in priority so I haven't gotten around to getting the 80% frame, kind of holding out until they have a 45/ 10mm version so I can get them both at the same time.
 
I have the apex trigger in my 17s with a 4 pound striker spring and a 3.5 pound connector. Might be the cheapest route with a new trigger shoe. I wouldn't recommend the lighter striker spring for carrying. I only use them on range guns or competition guns.
 
I run it stock. Very few people are good enough to realize the benefits of any modification. Ive had to qualify with the G22 and G17 out to 50 yards and they shoot just fine out of the box. I can shoot tiny groups with a finely tuned 1911, and get REALLY good at reloads. Or I can sacrifice tiny groups for good groups while putting a lot more ammo down range with faster splits with a Glock.
 
seems like the more i mess with a glock from factory....the more i have to mess with it. 5000 rounds thru my glock 23 with a factory trigger...just polished.

a friend gave me a pyramid trigger and i had issues every other magazine after that. gave it back to him.

the truth is, glocks dont have "good" triggers if you are used to shooting a 1911 with some crisp glass like trigger... i own one... what it comes down to is that glock pistols just work...over and over again....in stock form. YMMV :)
 
reviving this thread, because I can't seem to find where I want to be. The reset in my Glock 19 is super long. I have a Zev connector currently. The pull isn't so much an issue, but that the travel is super long and break is squishy.

There are SO many aftermarket trigger options. I have no interest in an unreliable combination. I don't want to spend $200 on a ZEV fulcrum if it isn't going to achieve the results I want. I called a gunsmith and he wasn't much help. Anybody have suggestions?
I used this. I cut the over travel nub at an angle. I found the 3.5lb pull was too light for me in a woods gun (g20) so I got an increased striker spring.

GHOST ROCKET 3.5 for Glocks GEN's 1-5

The end result is a shorter pull with about .030" over travel, and a short reset, while still maintaining all the factory safeties and pull weight.
 

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