Best CLEANER for hard to remove carbon and gunk.

[Hueco]

When using CLR (for anything) wear rubber (or nitrile) gloves, because it'll dry your hands out…

Approves:





(please tell me you've seen the video that spawned the meme)

 

[Hueco]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned Kroil yet. Love the stuff.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Because the OP asked for a dedicated cleaner, not an all-in-one or just plain oil or penetrant.

 

[Flymph]

BoreTech...

 

[Mikej]

BoreTech...

well that's what I picked up. Haven't had the chance to use it yet. Direct Drive swore by it. So if it doesn't work, you're BOTH going to be on the hook!

 

[Flymph]

well that's what I picked up. Haven't had the chance to use it yet. Direct Drive swore by it. So if it doesn't work, you're BOTH going to be on the hook!

I caved and bought it, just make sure to get nylon brushes and jags before you use it. LoL it's worth every penny!

 

[Member 34319]

CLR will remove just about anything from most metals. Other than that, Hoppes has never failed.

@Mikej you likely need a barrel extension cleaner, that's the hardest part to clean in any AR. If not entirely clean, it will track crap into the bore making it look dirty. Get one of these on a section of cleaning rod attached to a drill. Then follow with the other picture.

 

[Yarome]

Haven't had the chance to use it yet. Direct Drive swore by it. So if it doesn't work, you're BOTH going to be on the hook!

Been following this and waiting to see how it worked for you. I've always been a #9 guy, too. Tried a few of the "this stuff is like magic over Hoppes" through the years but most all of it ends up in the bin.

Did you get the copper fouling stuff or the bore cleaner?

 

[Ura-Ki]

Mix ATF DEX II Trans Fluid with Diesel and extra strength Ammonia, heat it till it's almost boiling and apply as needed!

 

[Mikej]

I caved and bought it, just make sure to get nylon brushes and jags before you use it. LoL it's worth every penny!

I did actually read the directions! And got the nylon brushes. I've always thought bronze did a more efficient job but I know that the solvent destroys them.

CLR will remove just about anything from most metals. Other than that, Hoppes has never failed.

@Mikej you likely need a barrel extension cleaner, that's the hardest part to clean in any AR. If not entirely clean, it will track crap into the bore making it look dirty. Get one of these on a section of cleaning rod attached to a drill. Then follow with the other picture.

View attachment 901708View attachment 901709

I've used the brush but don't have the mop.
Do you use any aerosol cleaner to flush the chamber? Brakleen? Carb cleaner? Seems putting the muzzle on a rag and shooting the camber, followed by clean patches from the breach would take care of the chamber pretty good?

Been following this and waiting to see how it worked for you. I've always been a #9 guy, too. Tried a few of the "this stuff is like magic over Hoppes" through the years but most all of it ends up in the bin.

Did you get the copper fouling stuff or the bore cleaner?

I got the "Eliminator". I don't have so much trouble with brass fouling. Letting the Hoppe's soak overnight after a couple of shorter soaks and scrubs removes the green. I'm not shooting hundreds of rounds through my old rifles before I do a cleaning. And Wifey maybe runs 200? It's the carbon in the grooves that's frustrating.

 

[Gonzales]

Call me weird… These are on sale. Just add your favorite cleaner.

Philips Sonicare - Sonicare DailyClean 1100 Rechargeable Toothbrush - Mint, $20

Model:HX3411/04
SKU:6370162

 

[Jimmer]

Looking for a solid gun Cleaner. Not a lube or oil. Currently using this CLP and it's just not performing up to my expectations.

What do you use?

View attachment 890153

I use the Birchwood cleaner-degreaser. Let er soak a bit then clean it up! Drop some XF-7 on it afterward and I've had no issues!

 

[Flopsweat]

I saw a Jerry Miculek video where he demonstrated how he cleans his AR's. He started out by spraying the chamber and BCG with electrical contact cleaner. If you've ever used that stuff you know that it rinses flux, carbon and grime off of circuit boards and switches really well, with little to no scrubbing half the time. He sprayed it into the chamber and let it run out the barrel. IIRC he just blew it out with an air hose and cleaned it with CLP after that. You do want to do this outdoors because that stuff will make fumes if you use a lot of it. Also try it on your receiver in an inconspicuous place first because it can mess with the finish. I have never used it on a blued gun or any of my revolvers - just the AR's. I hold the upper muzzle down and just hose down the chamber letting it run out into a bucket. Oh, that's another thing, don't do this over tile or concrete or near plants that you value. Once I've blown out the contact cleaner I soak it down with some CLP and then bore snake the barrel and swab the chamber out with a couple of q-tips. No scrubbing. I don't use it on the lower because there's no carbon build up there. This is super fast if you're cleaning more than one rifle.


edit:

Here's a newer video. Apparently Lucas Oil has a new contact cleaner that's polymer safe.

 

[3MTA3]

Since I discovered Slip 2000 their products are all I use, and I've used almost everything else: https://www.slip2000.com/

Their Carbon Killer is freaking amazing. Drop a part in a bath of the stuff and watch the carbon stream off and collect at the top. I barely have to even clean the rest off after a bit. It's water based and doesn't have a chemical smell. Just buy the big jar as you can dip larger parts and it's reusable.I use glass containers for dipping - water glasses to bread/meatloaf size then pour the rest back when done. Rinse then wach the container and it's perfectly safe - just don't let the wife see Not for use on exterior finishes.

I use their EWL lubricant as well. Again, totally amazing. The lubricated surface stays that way a long time and while very slick is not oily and non sticky.

The only thing their products don't do is smell ljke Hoppes 9. I would buy cologne with that scent.

 

[Mikej]

Since I discovered Slip 2000 their products are all I use, and I've used almost everything else: https://www.slip2000.com/

Their Carbon Killer is freaking amazing. Drop a part in a bath of the stuff and watch the carbon stream off and collect at the top. I barely have to even clean the rest off after a bit. It's water based and doesn't have a chemical smell. Just buy the big jar as you can dip larger parts and it's reusable.I use glass containers for dipping - water glasses to bread/meatloaf size then pour the rest back when done. Rinse then wach the container and it's perfectly safe - just don't let the wife see Not for use on exterior finishes.

I use their EWL lubricant as well. Again, totally amazing. The lubricated surface stays that way a long time and while very slick is not oily and non sticky.

The only thing their products don't do is smell ljke Hoppes 9. I would buy cologne with that scent.

HE NEVER SHOWS THE FRONT OF THAT CYLINDER! WTH kind of carbon collects at the extractor on a revolver? Rhetorical question. I just bought a jug of something promising to do better than #9 and it still doesn't get the groove in the rifle barrel 100% clean. That's after repeated wet/soak/brush/patch.

 

[3MTA3]

HE NEVER SHOWS THE FRONT OF THAT CYLINDER! WTH kind of carbon collects at the extractor on a revolver? Rhetorical question.

Having used the product I have no doubts whatsoever it would work. My stainless Redhawk used to get real bad and was awful to get it off. No longer have any revolvers so I haven't used it that way, but I can tell you that parts I was never able to completely clean no matter what I used or how long and with what I scrubbed them with gave it up to Carbon Killer in one soaking. The fixed piston in my Mini=14 machine gun being an example.

 

[orygun]

Marvel Mystery Oil.
It's actually a fuel additive meant for cleaning out injectors but it's cheaper and works better than any actual gun cleaner I've used. Just make sure you clean it off when you're done and use a separate lubricant.
Hope this helps!

That's a fantastic oil additive. We use it for many things around the shop. Why do you recommend cleanig off and oiling?

All the cool kids are using this now...
View attachment 890431

For bore cleaning I've switched to this...
View attachment 890432
Good ol' #9 has been retired, except for sniffin' now and then.

Bore Tech is good stuff. But I still use Hoppe's No9 for some things.

 

[Mikej]

Bore Tech is good stuff. But I still use Hoppe's No9 for some things.

That's what I got on recommendation from DirectDrive. It might do a little better, but I still quit while I'm getting traces of crud out of the grooves.

 

[WheatNuts]

Anyone have any recommendations for cleaning suppressor baffles? A lot of popular gun solvents don't do anything for the massive carbon buildup. I've been using brake cleaner, but there's got to be a better way

 

[Longwalkhome]

I have used Ed's Red for decades to clean carbon fowling, it works good.