Best CLEANER for hard to remove carbon and gunk.

[DirectDrive]

You get this online or locally? I'll order it right NOW, dammit!

I have not tried the Carbon Remover but I do like their Bore Cleaner better than #9
Got it on line at Midway.

Not hard to find a positive, independent review which got me to try the Eliminator Bore Cleaner.
Accurate Shooter's Forum

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[cigars]

There's always the top rack of the dishwasher. Set it to the high temp or sanitize cycle, no soap.

 

[Flymph]

I use MPro-7 as a solvent. I also recently picked up some Frog Lube solvent and grease, I like the solvent more than the grease. I also like MPro-7 oil, as it's a bit thicker than most gun oils. I mostly use CLP to wipe down large areas, as it seems to lubricate and protect more. Mostly CLP on AR's, and revolvers. MPro-7 solvent and oil on pistols, with Slip 2000 EWG for grease.
Gun Scrubber works, but you have to be careful with it as it can stain finish. I'm pretty sure Gun Scrubber is just brake cleaner tho.
If you oil up, and clean regularly, it will help mitigate buildup.

 

[Mikej]

I have not tried the Carbon Remover but I do like their Bore Cleaner better than #9
Got it on line at Midway.

Not hard to find a positive, independent review which got me to try the Eliminator Bore Cleaner.
Accurate Shooter's Forum

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Ordered the eliminator! 16oz $28.99 Amazon. I'll have it tomorrow. I don't seem to have so much problem with copper/brass fouling. Yes, it takes some time, but end up coming out clear. It's the carbon in the grooves! My old Lee Enfield NO1 MK III probably still has carbon from the end of WWI-WWII deep in the barrel grooves.

 

[Flymph]

Ordered the eliminator! 16oz $28.99 Amazon. I'll have it tomorrow. I don't seem to have so much problem with copper/brass fouling. Yes, it takes some time, but end up coming out clear. It's the carbon in the grooves! My old Lee Enfield NO1 MK III probably still has carbon from the end of WWI-WWII deep in the barrel grooves.

Post some more feedback after you get a chance, I'm curious.

 

[Mikej]

Post some more feedback after you get a chance, I'm curious.

Count on it! Direct Drive is a pretty fart smeller, I mean "Smart feller"! So I'll trust him.

 

[DirectDrive]

Count on it! Direct Drive is a pretty fart smeller, I mean "Smart feller"! So I'll trust him.

The pressure is on !

 

[Dinglenutz]

M-Pro 7

 

[Howard1955]

Probably depends on what part of a gun you're cleaning. I don't know if there's one "magic bullet" cleaner that does it all.

But if you're cleaning a stainless revolver (especially the faces of the cylinder), the best thing I've found is Mother's.

It works great, but might be too abrasive if you really got carried away with your scrubbing. But you'd really have to overdo the scrubbing to do any damage, I think.

People use it to shine up their stainless guns, or remove shallow scratches.

I've been getting mine at BiMart.

 

[Mikej]

Probably depends on what part of a gun you're cleaning. I don't know if there's one "magic bullet" cleaner that does it all.

But if you're cleaning a stainless revolver (especially the faces of the cylinder), the best thing I've found is Mother's.

It works great, but might be too abrasive if you really got carried away with your scrubbing. But you'd really have to overdo the scrubbing to do any damage, I think.

People use it to shine up their stainless guns, or remove shallow scratches.

I've been getting mine at BiMart.

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That's the worst! A beautiful all stainless gun, with a dirty face.

Yankee Marshal did a vid some years ago using a scotch bright pad and what-ever basic solvent. I used Hoppe's, with a piece of the pad wrapped around a toothbrush handle. Took some elbow grease but worked pretty good.

 

[Howard1955]

That's the worst! A beautiful all stainless gun, with a dirty face.

Yankee Marshal did a vid some years ago using a scotch bright pad and what-ever basic solvent. I used Hoppe's, with a piece of the pad wrapped around a toothbrush handle. Took some elbow grease but worked pretty good.

I've been using it for a while, just applying Mother's with a cloth and some rubbing.

I almost forgot - if there's ever a situation where spray paint needs to be removed, Powder Blast solvent works great for that.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

OP asked for a cleaner, not a combo all-in-one product, for cleaning carbon build up.

 

[Caveman Jim]

That CLP has NUTHIN' going for in that department!

It was recommended to me by @Mygrainman, He also gave me a little tip that would go along way with the CLP for cleaning off carbon on the bolt.
He said dip the rear of the bolt into CLP and get a 30 CAL piece of brass kind of chamfer it a bit on the inside and work it like "date night!!!"

 

[doobee8]

Hoppes and TIME. LET IT SOAK!

 

[DirectDrive]

A friend just bought a new pickup.
When backing his camp trailer up he got the brand new truck up against a city street light pole (aluminum).
Put a nice bruise on his new truck between the narrow panel between the bed and the door.
So genius gets a Scotch Brite pad thinking he's going to buff this out.

Wrong !
He then tells me how the paint comes off these new trucks pretty easy !

We've been torturing him ever since.
No signs of let up.

 

[billdeserthills]

Cleaning carbon rings with Dremel & Flitz

Cleaning Carbon Rings with Dremel/Flitz

For years I have been wanting to get my cylinder face free of Carbon Rings. I tried a lot of solutions (even Flitz) with a lot of elbow grease and never came close to ridding the face of the rings. Tonight I rubbed Flitz on them, chucked a felt polishing wheel on the Dremel, let the Flitz...

www.thehighroad.org

 

[Busyhawk]

Another vote for Bore Tech and if that doesn't do the trick my last resort is Simichrome Polish. If Simichrome can't fix the carbon problem then it is not Carbon! Be aware of CLR...it does't like to be used on some coatings! I like CLR for my Thunderbeast Can (titanium) but the comp/adapter is coated (WAS) and it ate the coating off in no time. Just my .02

 

[gmerkt]

For me, the true test for carbon cleaning is the inside of an AR bolt. The chamber inside the carrier and the back end of the bolt. Ordinary solvents like Hoppe's No. 9 won't do it. Years ago, I bought one of those Outer's tools for scraping the stuff off; it gets the big chunks but that's about it. In my own experience, two chemicals work well. One is CLP Break Free. The other is G96 and it works better. G96 originally came out as G66, thirty years earlier. It works well in cleaning out the inside of an AR bolt carrier, no brushing needed. I just dry wipe it out with long Q tips. Gets very clean.

I've got a small box full of various cleaning chemicals I've purchased over the decades. Some work better than others. Some work not well at all.

I still use Hoppe's No. 9 for bore cleaning. It just occurred to me while making this post that I should try the G96 as a bore cleaner, it might work better than Hoppe's.

One time I was cleaning a Colt SP1 with a typical anodized finish, a run of Hoppe's No. 9 left a streak of discoloration on it. Be aware of the possible reactions to finishes of chemicals you use.

 

[Mikej]

It was recommended to me by @Mygrainman, He also gave me a little tip that would go along way with the CLP for cleaning off carbon on the bolt.
He said dip the rear of the bolt into CLP and get a 30 CAL piece of brass kind of chamfer it a bit on the inside and work at like "date night!!!"

That's a heck of an idea! I was using a modified motorcycle wheel spoke to gently scrape the carbon off the bolt. PIA. I decided it was clean enough!

Hoppes and TIME. LET IT SOAK!

You mean like, over night? Yeah, did that. More than once.

I'll be looking forward to trying this new stuff on my schmutz!

 

[OldTengu]

Breakfree, Hoppes copper fouling remover, hoppes black gun cleaner, windex, rem oil wipes (the spray always causes surface rust for me, but not the wipes)... etc.
mostly I use breakfree clp (any other kind is terrible) the hoppes copper fouling remover (the windex is an ok substitute but either one will cause rust if left too long) and the hoppes black.