Best adhesive for a split handguard?

Discussion in 'Curio & Relic Discussion' started by Modeler, Oct 5, 2014.

  1. Modeler

    Modeler
    Molalla, Oregon
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    Today I've been cleaning up the Chinese Type 53 (Mosin M44 analog) that I got off Gunbroker last week. I noticed a crack in the handguard that seemed to have been glued back together, as soon as I started heating it up to get the cosmoline sweated out the glue failed and it split back into two pieces. The temp was around 100 degrees, which seems pretty low for glue failure to me. I have some epoxy, but it starts to soften a bit above 100 degrees, so I'd like to use something with a higher temp rating. Any ideas?

    NCM_0040_zps0bdd668d.jpg
     
  2. DieselScout

    DieselScout
    S Clackamas County
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    Acraglass maybe?
     
  3. erudne

    erudne
    The Pie Matrix
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    call Brownell's tech line monday
     
  4. U201491

    U201491 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe west systems G-Flex
     
  5. Modeler

    Modeler
    Molalla, Oregon
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    I have a bunch of West Systems epoxy and have extensive experience with it, but it doesn't handle heat well.
     
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  6. U201491

    U201491 Well-Known Member

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  7. Modeler

    Modeler
    Molalla, Oregon
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  8. Blitzkrieg

    Blitzkrieg
    WA
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    Titebond 3 (Lowes) for the actual mend, with a fiberglass layer inside.. you may find Bondohair helpful for the latter, it's used for auto body repair

    Woodworker here... it's my new biz. PM me if you need help
     
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  9. jbett98

    jbett98
    NW Oregon
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    Gorilla Glue might be up to the task.
    They have one that's specifically made for wood.
     
  10. coop44

    coop44
    Tacoma ,WA
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    401 loctite, any other glue you use will take up too much space. just be careful to perfectly align the pieces.
     
  11. Modeler

    Modeler
    Molalla, Oregon
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    Looks like a cyanoacrylate, for some reason I hadn't thought of that. I need some anyway for another project.
     
  12. coop44

    coop44
    Tacoma ,WA
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    yep a "crazy" type glue. I've repaired many a broken "toe" and other cracks with it. not sure if the 401 is still available, but there are still versions around for porous surfaces. the repair turns out stronger than the stock
     
  13. Blitzkrieg

    Blitzkrieg
    WA
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    So is Titebond, and it is a wood specific glue
     
  14. jbett98

    jbett98
    NW Oregon
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    Getting any adhesive to stick on an oily surface is the biggest obstacle.
    Treat the broken edges with acetone or some other oil removing solvent before applying the glue.
     
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  15. Blitzkrieg

    Blitzkrieg
    WA
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    Liberally.. and then apply the glue immediately before oils can migrate into the surface
     
  16. EM60

    EM60
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    If you Gorilla glue that and clamp it tight, and let set over-night, it will not break there again. You might break it somewhere else, but not there.
     
  17. Blitzkrieg

    Blitzkrieg
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    Problem with Gorilla Glue is it foams all over the place and may mar the exterior finish (not sure if that matters to the OP)

    And to modeler, sand the existing glue off, first
     
  18. EM60

    EM60
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    Gorilla glue does foam, but it is easy to clean if you do it before it totally sets. And nomatter what you glue it with your going to have to touch it up anyway. Just saying I have used gorilla glue on a lot of stuff and there is nothing I have found that comes close. You do have to clamp the pieces tightly together whether you use a vice or wood clamps.
     
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  19. jim97701

    jim97701
    Bend
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    I gotta throw my hat into the titebond 3 ring. I work at a window and door manufacturing plant and we use it to glue up parts on special order products. You have to make sure to use 3 and not just regular titebond, there is a difference.
     
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  20. Modeler

    Modeler
    Molalla, Oregon
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    I used some Loctite gel CA glue, I'll check tomorrow and see how it worked. Thanks for all the advice!
     

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