Before you spend $350-400 on a handgun

[cameronhu]

...But if you can find an XD for fewer than 400, any caliber, I will buy it right now...

I bought a stainless .45 XD tactical on gunbroker last week for $400. Just arrived today. Looks brand new.

True story.

 

[Brandon44647]

I just last week purchased a NEW Springfield XD9 for $480 , Call me paranoid if you want, but somethings I won't buy used. I would rather spend a few extra bucks & know what I just bought hasn't been abused or not taken care of......

 

[MarkAd]

My qualifactions for my statements - They are mine and therefor without fault.

First time buyers - RESEARCH is the key.
Repeat buyers - RESEARCH is the key.

I spend about 2 to 4 weeks studying any gun I want to get before buying it.
If the shop offers it use layaway if it appears to be a super deal on something.

If I buy from a private party I aleady know what I am looking for and what I am willing to pay.

I BTW bought a crap gun (milsup) for 80 bucks and it is a good straight shooter. But I had also done research on that gun before I got it.

And I think the original post is a front for the gun site listed at the bottom of the post.

 

[cameronhu]

I just last week purchased a NEW Springfield XD9 for $480 , Call me paranoid if you want, but somethings I won't buy used. I would rather spend a few extra bucks & know what I just bought hasn't been abused or not taken care of......

You're paranoid

I hear what you're saying, though. There are a lot of things I won't buy used. Guns... well, I don't mind so much as long as they're clean and in good shape. I usually think of them as investments.

 

[Trlsmn]

I'd be really interested to hear about your technical qualifications for judging the quality of firearms or the materials that go into them. You must be an expert that has studied the subject carefully. Probably a degree in metallurgy? Maybe a specialty in firearms metallurgy and manufacturing?

So lay it out: What makes a "crap made gun" and what makes you qualified to make that judgment?

What makes you so worried about a guy giving some good advice? I know Fromotoc and he has plenty of real world experience with guns, does he need to roll out the sheep skins just to make a post?

I can also say that Fromotoc has nothing against surplus guns!

 

[krawl]

WOW missed last 2 pages. I never saw Rugers knocked. My first handgun was a P89. For range guns honestly I'd rank it near the top. ONly reason not for carry is too damn heavy. Ruger can be hit or miss, but their P-series seems to do well. Just depends on your need- but again check prices!!!!

 

[tionico]

I'd buy a lot more guns locally if it weren't that I've had problems FINDING the ones I want. Cabelas have great inventory, but their prices are, in general, a bit on the dear side of things. Washington gun shows are alright, but if I'm on the prowl for a certain model, I can spend a couple hours combing every table and still walk out with nothing.... either don't have it, or are delusional on price, or its worn out/trashed. I've only rarely seen any bargains on here, most are priced between reasonable (no bargain, no thievery) and delusional.

I've had VERY good success on the online auction sites... got several incredible bargains on guns offered as used, but in reality never fired, or so close to it as to be insignificant. I like buying something in as new condition for sixty percent of new discount.

I've been blessed in finding a FFL Transfer dealer that will accept shipments from anyone, private party or licensed. He charges $20 long guns, $25 handguns, and is amazingly easy to work with. If your transfer dealer won't accept shipments from a non-FFL licensed dealer, find another dealer who will WORK for you. He's at no more risk accepting shipments from non-licensed parties.

I'd far rather buy locally, cash, FtF..... but, I've only found three handguns to my liking in this category. Gunshows in WA I can put down my cash and walk out with my new piece.... long guns as well. In Oregon, with their new laws, I can still buy a long gun, paying additional for the BG check, but, due to Federal regs I cannot buy a handgun direct... must be shipped to my FFL Dealer up here. And at that point, most times I'm far better off with online. Worst problems I've had so far (a dozen transactions or so) is one where poor packing allowed very small scratching, and another auto pistol that was supposed to have two mags shipped with it, they'd left one back at the seller's. Within one day of my bringing it up, they'd shipped a replacement via FedEx air. Most trades have been flawless, and what I ended up with out at my dealer's place has, with one exception, been astounding.

BUT-- as someone mentioned RESEARCH. No, more than that. Glocks do not fit my hand. Had I found and bought one, I'd have been VERY disappointed.

 

[s12tactical]

Aside from the "crap gun" comment, I believe the OP brings up a good point. Buying a firearm can be an intimidating thing for some folks. Purchasing one through a site like gunbroker.com (which is a sponsor, by the way) may seem a bit more intimidating.


I agree, buying locally is better - And it is the _first_ place I look when considering a purchase. But a person shopping for a good firearm shouldn't be dissuaded from using an online seller out of ignorance or fear.

I'm afraid...how can I get over my fears and also

 

[skud_dusty]

The problem is the days of the $300 police turn in Glock, and $250 used but cared for Ruger are gone. These days the police turn in Glocks are fetching almost $450. As you pointed out with the P6 they started at a good price point (less than $300) and now I see the SAME pistol going for almost $400. A surplus euro police pistol with lots of holster wear isn't worth that much money to me...Sig or not.

I bought a used but not abused 2nd gen Glock 19 almost 4 years ago now for $300. It had dim night sights and came with 3 high caps. It had minor holster wear, but worked just like any other Glock. Sadly with the current political climate that just isn't the case anymore.

Thankfully rifles are finally coming back to "normal" prices. Just a year ago I was seeing WASRs selling for $600. Now I've seen some posted from larger FFLs for $400. To put this in perspective 3 years ago I bought a Romanian Ak with 3 mags and KVAR furniture for $375. It wasn't as pretty as my Polish Tantal, but it was put together a bit better than the Century monkeys could do with the WASR.

/rant & ramble off

There are still good deals out there...you just have to look really hard.

 

[tionico]

I'm afraid...how can I get over my fears and also

simple. Gunbroker.com is, I think, the largest, auctionarms.com much smaller but still huge. First, do your homework, learn precisely what YOU want... make, calibre, model, series, features, options, range of year of manufacture. Build a search (easy to do) once yhou've registered. ANY arms meeting your specs will turn up. To start out, perhaps you'd be wiser to limit things in your watchlist to those on offer from vendors with higher numbers of transactions.... a hundred or so should be safe. (some larger dealers are in the thouands, all A+ transactions.... these are completely reliable). Figure out the max you will pay for your treasure... keeping in mind the added costs of shipping (this will range from $13 to $80 for the same type of item.... some folks just have one way they will ship, and you can't convince them to use anyting else... but ask about shipping costs if they seem high). Most items have the shipping plainly listed. Terms of payment are also listed... most add fees for plastic, some don't. Some offer a no-charge layaway plan, up to 90 days. Always figure your landed cost, including your own transfer dealer's fees, which you should already know. If your dealer won't accept shipments from a private party (and there is NO legitimate reason he won't but some are dug in.... not sure why) find a different dealer who has no problem with this. Some vendors on these sites are not FFL licensed, and still do a fairly high volume. I've got some VERY good bargains from private parties, so if I had a dealer who would not accept these, I'd have lost them. Get that sorted out before you start shopping online.

One good way of getting a "feel" for a particular vendor online is to ask a specific question about what he has on offer. If the response comes back quickly, and is specific to your question, that is a good thing. If they ignore you, or answer some OTHER question, or don't answer yours, maybe hesitate......

There was one gun last week, I REALLY REALLY wanted one just like it, I've been looking (still am). No photo, one line of copy describing it, feedback of three. I emailed, asking if there were any photos, I thought I knew what it was, but wanted to make certain. I also asked for the part of the serial number that dates the piece. No response. Two more emails during the run of the item. No response. I didn't bid... and if that gun is what I think is, I could have had it for about four hundred less than others listed at the same time. I was not able to be positive what it was, no pics, and three emails went unanswered.... it closed, no bids. I still want it, IF it is what I think it is. Hasn't been relisted...... he had at least a dozen other items listed, same sort of thing on all of them..... they've all closed, no bids. Maybe he went away on vacation hoping they'd all sell while he was off in wherever... maybe he's legit, and has what I want.... but I was not willing to risk it. If his rating was over a hundred, I'd have reconsidered...... but at three..... maybe I missed the deal of the decade.

Just as with self-defense, don't pull that trigger until you are absolutely certain it will hit the thing you want it to hit. Any doubt, wait....

 

[s12tactical]

simple. Gunbroker.com is, I think, the largest, auctionarms.com much smaller but still huge. First, do your homework, learn precisely what YOU want... make, calibre, model, series, features, options, range of year of manufacture. Build a search (easy to do) once yhou've registered. ANY arms meeting your specs will turn up. To start out, perhaps you'd be wiser to limit things in your watchlist to those on offer from vendors with higher numbers of transactions.... a hundred or so should be safe. (some larger dealers are in the thouands, all A+ transactions.... these are completely reliable). Figure out the max you will pay for your treasure... keeping in mind the added costs of shipping (this will range from $13 to $80 for the same type of item.... some folks just have one way they will ship, and you can't convince them to use anyting else... but ask about shipping costs if they seem high). Most items have the shipping plainly listed. Terms of payment are also listed... most add fees for plastic, some don't. Some offer a no-charge layaway plan, up to 90 days. Always figure your landed cost, including your own transfer dealer's fees, which you should already know. If your dealer won't accept shipments from a private party (and there is NO legitimate reason he won't but some are dug in.... not sure why) find a different dealer who has no problem with this. Some vendors on these sites are not FFL licensed, and still do a fairly high volume. I've got some VERY good bargains from private parties, so if I had a dealer who would not accept these, I'd have lost them. Get that sorted out before you start shopping online.

One good way of getting a "feel" for a particular vendor online is to ask a specific question about what he has on offer. If the response comes back quickly, and is specific to your question, that is a good thing. If they ignore you, or answer some OTHER question, or don't answer yours, maybe hesitate......

There was one gun last week, I REALLY REALLY wanted one just like it, I've been looking (still am). No photo, one line of copy describing it, feedback of three. I emailed, asking if there were any photos, I thought I knew what it was, but wanted to make certain. I also asked for the part of the serial number that dates the piece. No response. Two more emails during the run of the item. No response. I didn't bid... and if that gun is what I think is, I could have had it for about four hundred less than others listed at the same time. I was not able to be positive what it was, no pics, and three emails went unanswered.... it closed, no bids. I still want it, IF it is what I think it is. Hasn't been relisted...... he had at least a dozen other items listed, same sort of thing on all of them..... they've all closed, no bids. Maybe he went away on vacation hoping they'd all sell while he was off in wherever... maybe he's legit, and has what I want.... but I was not willing to risk it. If his rating was over a hundred, I'd have reconsidered...... but at three..... maybe I missed the deal of the decade.

Just as with self-defense, don't pull that trigger until you are absolutely certain it will hit the thing you want it to hit. Any doubt, wait....

I'm feeling somewhat better now...its just hard to send away a money order to some stranger, not knowing for sure if they will send the item that you bid on...just so many variables that can go wrong.

 

[cameronhu]

I'm feeling somewhat better now...its just hard to send away a money order to some stranger, not knowing for sure if they will send the item that you bid on...just so many variables that can go wrong.

If you use Post Office issued Money orders, and send them certified mail, you should be pretty safe. Not too many scammers are stupid enough to call down the wrath of the Postal Inspectors for a thousand bucks.

 

[s12tactical]

If you use Post Office issued Money orders, and send them certified mail, you should be pretty safe. Not too many scammers are stupid enough to call down the wrath of the Postal Inspectors for a thousand bucks.

you make a good point...

 

[tionico]

I most often use a bank cashier's check to pay for my purchases, unless they don't ask for a surcharge for plastic, or will accept a personal check. Bank checks are issued to a named party, and almost anyone cashing, or accepting for deposit, will seek sufficient identification, or verification of the depositor's identity and account number. If there is a problem, they are traceable.... at least as far as into which account it is deposited, and often who signed it, their ID, etc. If a check goes astray in the post, they can be cancelled, the money returned to your account, and a new one issued. Another level of safety. And far cheaper than waiting in line, paying the fees, and NO recourse if it gets lost, and/or paying for certified mail. I get cashier's checks from my bank at no charge.
There is almost never a wait, and I can most often get the check when I am already at my bank doing other business. Extra time amounts to half a minute, and no going out of my way...... often, I've found a vendor who asks for certified funds, when I explain I can send a personal/business check today, or wait until next Monday for the certified funds, they will accept the private check. Getting it sooner is better than later, they think. I've never an issue with waiting until it clears their bank..... and tell them so. EVERYONE I've dealt with on Gunbroker or Auction Arms have been very fine people, easy to deal with, grade their wares conservatively (I've won at auction several items held out as "fine" to "as new" or "like new in box", and, when they arrive, find the item to be truly as new... some of them I am convinced have truly never been fired. NO signs of aver having been..anywhere. And get them for several hundred less than new.... and don't pay state sales tax (which, on, say, thousand bucks, can be significant.... eighty nine bucks, these days, in Washington.)

As to overall safety, Gunbroker in particular is pretty careful, Deadbeats don't last long, they have some sort of buyer protection plan in place, and do NOT take kindly to any sort of shenannigans. Part of why I recommend only dealing with vendors with a perfect record in over a hundred transacions is YOUR protection. NO ONE will take the time and effort to build up a hundred good transactions, then stiff the next one. Taking a little care to assess the whole picture will go a long ways toward protecting yourself.

BUT-- beware of "auction fever", the syndrome wherein one gets caught up in the excitement of the auction and spends more than an item is worth in a frenzy to "win". Winning is, in the full sense, outbidding the competition AND getting a bargain on your purchase. I've managed to do exactly that more than once on both Gunbroker and Auction Arms. KNOW exactly what you are looking for, and what it is worth, to you this week. Then, before bidding, grab hold of yourself by the scruff, and DO NOT bid higher than what you know it is worth, less shipping, fees, etc. to get it TO YOUR DOOR and through your transfer dealer. Adopt an almost "I don't care" stance when it comes to bidding.... place your max proxy bid, then close your window and wait to see whether you get an email notifying you of your win. The one tactic I've employed several times is to be online coming down to the final minutes of bidding... but do nothing until the last two minutes or so. Rarely are the "competition" watching at that precise time. Someone else will think he's got it, I come in with two minutes remaining, place my max proxy bid.... and find I've got the item for several hundred less than I had thought possible. Other times, someone else wants it worse than do I, I've already set my limit and it goes for well above that number..... there will almost always be another one just like it within a short time.

 

[Joe Link]

Check out the group buy for the Beretta 96D's, only $280 for a nice gun with night sights.

 

[spider]

i'd buy a crappy ruger anyday

 

[HappyRoman]

If you can buy lots of guns, why not, try them all, keep the one's you really like and trade others.. isn't that what most are doing on this site?

 

[Tactical SS]

Local shop had two Springfield 1911s brand new for ~$550 cash price. One OD Green with brown US grips, other black with brown US grips.

 

[PhysicsGuy]

Nothing better than bringing back a 6 month old thread

 

[MDH]

Less a bump, more a thread resurrection.