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Whats important about oil and the AR is that you are using it. Are some choices better than others? I am sure they are. The only choice that is critical though is the choice to put oil on it. I have used cooking oil, motor oil, threading oil and even a bit of bacon grease (works good and smells delicious)

An AR needs lubrication, a dry AR is a problematic AR. I have never used any of the "fancy" stuff, mostly what I use is air tool oil, because I have a lot of it and it was free :D
 
I have been trying Slip 2000 with good results. They make several different types depending on use. LWRC recommends it on my M6A2 - EWL (Extreme Weapons Lubricant). They also make a grease that has solved my AMT Hardballer galling problems. Older Stainless .45 autos and maybe some newer ones will benefit from this. They used a softer steel. It is completely non-toxic and not that expensive. I have also used Hoppes, CLP, Rem-oil and Tri-flow. Tri-flow tends to separate, but worked great for a while. Hoppes had always been my go to prior to Slip 2000. I still use it on blued steel for rust prevention in storage.
 
Whats important about oil and the AR is that you are using it. Are some choices better than others? I am sure they are. The only choice that is critical though is the choice to put oil on it. I have used cooking oil, motor oil, threading oil and even a bit of bacon grease (works good and smells delicious)

An AR needs lubrication, a dry AR is a problematic AR. I have never used any of the "fancy" stuff, mostly what I use is air tool oil, because I have a lot of it and it was free :D

Exactly, it doesn't matter what you use, just use something and plenty of it.
 
What are folks feelings on Teflon? I just started using "Blaster" brand dry lube w/Teflon (?$6 at box stores).

Goes on wet similar to Hornady One Shot w/"dyna glide", then dries to leave the Teflon behind. The "Blaster" brand does take a bit longer to dry, but canned air dries it rite out.

That "Blaster" brand does leave a decent amount of white Teflon film behind though, seemingly moreso than One Shot's coating.

-From what I've read, you want to keep Teflon away from barrels though, so they're getting CLP.

Again, just started using the Teflon, but earlier in the week ran a few AR's "a bunch" without issue.

Overspray does make a bit of a mess, so you do have to clean it up rather quickly or you'll be picking Teflon out of grooves & such...
 
Dry lube, in my experience, rubs off and does not replace itself. A fluid, continues to flow and continues to re-coat itself.

Teflon? One of the ingredients of our Vietnam-era small arms lube, LSA-T. We used it internally and externally on every component of small arms for lubrication and preservative.
 
Dry lube, in my experience, rubs off and does not replace itself. A fluid, continues to flow and continues to re-coat itself.

Teflon? One of the ingredients of our Vietnam-era small arms lube, LSA-T. We used it internally and externally on every component of small arms for lubrication and preservative.


I remember in basic and AIT we had to use RBC and then LSA... I remember thinking, "this sheite is just kerosene, man!!" (Smelled just like kerosene.... duh). Then hit permanent party at my first duty station and it was all Break Free CLP....
 

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