Authentic M1 Garands - $650

[JSJPDX]

Im kinda new to Milsurps, are low numbers good or bad?

It depends on what milsurp you are talking about and why you are purchasing it.

In the case of Garands, do you want a WW2 (lower # ranges) or Korea (higher # range) vintage rifle? With a WW2 piece do you want prewar or war years? What manufacturer do you want? Do you want/mind a lead dipped receiver (some serial number ranges had a heat treat issue with the heel of the receiver)?

For 1903 or 1903a3 variants there are those that would argue that higher number rifles are better because of heat treating issues with the receivers.

M1 carbines are another animal as well. Some manufacturers, any SN is good because there were so few manufactured (IBM or Rock-ola) and other manufacturers it depends on what you want manufacturing year wise.

If you're just looking for a good shooter, any SN will probably work great. Most have been arsenal rebuilt at least one or more times anyway so most are mixmasters.

If you really take the milsurp plunge it is a deep hole.

 

[BrentN]

It depends on what milsurp you are talking about and why you are purchasing it.

In the case of Garands, do you want a WW2 (lower # ranges) or Korea (higher # range) vintage rifle? With a WW2 piece do you want prewar or war years? What manufacturer do you want? Do you want/mind a lead dipped receiver (some serial number ranges had a heat treat issue with the heel of the receiver)?

For 1903 or 1903a3 variants there are those that would argue that higher number rifles are better because of heat treating issues with the receivers.

M1 carbines are another animal as well. Some manufacturers, any SN is good because there were so few manufactured (IBM or Rock-ola) and other manufacturers it depends on what you want manufacturing year wise.

If you're just looking for a good shooter, any SN will probably work great. Most have been arsenal rebuilt at least one or more times anyway so most are mixmasters.

If you really take the milsurp plunge it is a deep hole.

Sorry- I thought he was referring to the gauge reading at the throat and muzzle!

 

[Red98422]

It depends on what milsurp you are talking about and why you are purchasing it.

In the case of Garands, do you want a WW2 (lower # ranges) or Korea (higher # range) vintage rifle? With a WW2 piece do you want prewar or war years? What manufacturer do you want? Do you want/mind a lead dipped receiver (some serial number ranges had a heat treat issue with the heel of the receiver)?

For 1903 or 1903a3 variants there are those that would argue that higher number rifles are better because of heat treating issues with the receivers.

M1 carbines are another animal as well. Some manufacturers, any SN is good because there were so few manufactured (IBM or Rock-ola) and other manufacturers it depends on what you want manufacturing year wise.

If you're just looking for a good shooter, any SN will probably work great. Most have been arsenal rebuilt at least one or more times anyway so most are mixmasters.

If you really take the milsurp plunge it is a deep hole.

Sorry- I thought he was referring to the gauge reading at the throat and muzzle!

Thank you both for your response, I was indeed referring to the gauge reading.

I was just wanting a shooter, I don't want to worry about ruining something that has genuine collectors value or rarity which is why I have been extremely interested in this particular deal.

 

[Aero Denezol]

If you look around at prices on Gunbroker, CMP is still a good value and a sensible $$ way to keep adding shooters to your milsurp collection. FWIW, I shoot all of my milsurps, so I could care less about "parts matching" as long as the bore is good.

6 weeks is about right. I had a week or so delay because one of my pages was not properly notarized. Once cleared though, the shipping was like 2 or 3 days.

Did they reach out to you by email? I assume you had to send them wet-signature documents by Priority Mail or some similar service.

I didn't notarize my new application because I am a repeat customer, but now I see that you have to notarize if there is an address change, even if you are a repeat customer (I think the CMP website is terrible, btw). Anyhow I find this irritating, because the old address was my house, and the new address is my FFL. The FFL has responsibility to verify my identity.

 

[BrentN]

Thank you both for your response, I was indeed referring to the gauge reading.

I was just wanting a shooter, I don't want to worry about ruining something that has genuine collectors value or rarity which is why I have been extremely interested in this particular deal.

Oh I am definitely going to shoot mine.

 

[BrentN]

If you look around at prices on Gunbroker, CMP is still a good value and a sensible $$ way to keep adding shooters to your milsurp collection. FWIW, I shoot all of my milsurps, so I could care less about "parts matching" as long as the bore is good.



Did they reach out to you by email? I assume you had to send them wet-signature documents by Priority Mail or some similar service.

I didn't notarize my new application because I am a repeat customer, but now I see that you have to notarize if there is an address change, even if you are a repeat customer (I think the CMP website is terrible, btw). Anyhow I find this irritating, because the old address was my house, and the new address is my FFL. The FFL has responsibility to verify my identity.

Yes, they notified me by e-mail. I just printed out the pages, filled them out, and sent snail mail.

 

[BrentN]

1st day at the range! My son getting some trigger time with it.