JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Messages
144
Reactions
507
Approaching my 60th birthday. Been doing the muzzleloader thing for over 45 years now. Not sure if it's my age, but every now and then a new BP shooter asks me for advice/help. Then they ignore it and go ahead and do something completely contrary, with predictable results.

So here's my list of recently ignored advice:

1. Don't run a dry patch down a dirty bore.
2. Pop a couple of caps before you load your first shot.
3. If you're going to wipe the bore, use a damp patch not a dripping wet one.
4. Don't use Pyrodex in your flintlock, try some of my Goex instead.
5. Nipples are consumables, you need a new one.
6. Flints are consumables, knapp it or put in a new one.


Yeah, some of them seem pretty obvious, others not so much. I guess people just need to find out for themselves. I was probably the same way once.
 
Some people (myself included) just like to find things out on our own. If it's not obviously dangerous, I'll usually try things out several ways to see which works best.

That being said, I'm always appreciative of advice from someone with more experience than me. And even if you say "A is the best way" and I go and do B and it doesn't work, It's still great to know about A and that it will probably work better.:D
 
Have considered using SiliKroil for cleaning/treating some of my vintage steel rifle barrels. Anyone have any experience/advise with this as opposed to CLP, Hoppes, or other leading fluids?
 
I have used KROIL on many a old rusty original barrel , bore and other metal parts.
It does a great job of bringing back to life a old gun.

That said watch how and what you are doing so you do not remove age patina.
( or as little as possible )

But for neglected bores it is excellent in removing rust.
Be sure to check the breech after you use it ... KROIL can loosen the threads in the breech.
Andy
 
I have used KROIL on many a old rusty original barrel , bore and other metal parts.
It does a great job of bringing back to life a old gun.

That said watch how and what you are doing so you do not remove age patina.
( or as little as possible )

But for neglected bores it is excellent in removing rust.
Be sure to check the breech after you use it ... KROIL can loosen the threads in the breech.
Andy
Good info, hadn't considered the threads loosening with muck gone. The mfg. claims it penetrates to millionth of an inch, or some molecular size...so I'll be mindful of that impact on everything.
 
I have used KROIL on many a old rusty original barrel , bore and other metal parts.
It does a great job of bringing back to life a old gun.

That said watch how and what you are doing so you do not remove age patina.
( or as little as possible )

But for neglected bores it is excellent in removing rust.
Be sure to check the breech after you use it ... KROIL can loosen the threads in the breech.
Andy
In addition to affecting metal patina, have you observed an impact on bluing?
 
Well there's asking for advice, and there's seeking info. Some times some are just researching. Some times some actually want to know what you think. I always tell people my advice costs them nothing and is worth what they paid.
There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves.

Will Rogers
 
Well there's asking for advice, and there's seeking info. Some times some are just researching. Some times some actually want to know what you think. I always tell people my advice costs them nothing and is worth what they paid.
There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves.

Will Rogers
 
My contribution by recommendation is Rusty Duck's Black Off for cleaning the ole smoke pole.
Smells like isopropyl alcohol but cleans like the dickens.
I'm a big fan of 777 ('cept for the 'crud ring, which is characteristic of gluconic acid-based propellants).
Very reliable and consistent ignition IF you're using 209 primers.
 
Approaching my 60th birthday. Been doing the muzzleloader thing for over 45 years now. Not sure if it's my age, but every now and then a new BP shooter asks me for advice/help. Then they ignore it and go ahead and do something completely contrary, with predictable results.

So here's my list of recently ignored advice:

1. Don't run a dry patch down a dirty bore.
2. Pop a couple of caps before you load your first shot.
3. If you're going to wipe the bore, use a damp patch not a dripping wet one.
4. Don't use Pyrodex in your flintlock, try some of my Goex instead.
5. Nipples are consumables, you need a new one.
6. Flints are consumables, knapp it or put in a new one.


Yeah, some of them seem pretty obvious, others not so much. I guess people just need to find out for themselves. I was probably the same way once.

Thanks for the good information, Rocklock! I'm not going to use it either, because my front loader days were 25yrs ago!
I appreciate that you were good enough to share it, here! Good work! :)

I'd like to see you post more often. I like information on all things shooting!
 
:D:D
Well there's asking for advice, and there's seeking info. Some times some are just researching. Some times some actually want to know what you think. I always tell people my advice costs them nothing and is worth what they paid.
There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves.

Will Rogers

LOL!!! My Grandpa rigged an electric fence charger to a carefully insulated piece of iron on the scrap pile, in the gap, between the barn and the machinery building. There was a problem with the Aflalfa and potato harvesters pizzing in the back, on the scraps.
Grandpa set that puppy for, "Three Miles of Fence," and walked away! No more problems! :D
 
I was lucky that I had two mentors who understood my problem obeying authority, and that I needed clear language in their recommendations. As one once said to me, "Jimmer, you keep doing that, and if it doesn't kill you first, I may kill you with the beating I will give you." I think I was 23. Bill learnt me a lot, but since moving away, I still have too many episodes to count of me pissing on high tension wires.
 
No. 4 was what set me off on this post. Had two different guys on two separate occasions, both new to flintlocks, approach and tell me to feel free about offering any advice. Saw they were using Pyrodex with no real BP in sight. Offered some GOEX. In each case they told me "No Thanks, my rifle works fine with Pyrodex." Said O.K. and commenced to shooting. After 30 minutes of watching my rifle reliably go bang while they struggled with misfires, hangfires, punkie sounding shots etc.. they finally came around and asked to try some GOEX. Problems cured. Talking to them later, turns out they actually thought the misfires, hangfires etc. were just the way flintlocks worked (ask anybody, flintlocks are unreliable and have really slow ignition), hence the "My rifle works fine with Pyrodex" comments.

Guess you need a frame of reference to even know you have a problem.
 
GOEX Black powder only for flintlocks ... No truer words ever spoken.
A flintlock can be very reliable ... If you have a sharp flint , clean vent , a good lock and use black powder.
Heck I even prime from my horn which usually has 2F in it.
Works just fine.

Pyrodex is a "solution" in search of a problem.
Andy
 

Upcoming Events

Centralia Gun Show
Centralia, WA
Klamath Falls gun show
Klamath Falls, OR
Oregon Arms Collectors April 2024 Gun Show
Portland, OR
Albany Gun Show
Albany, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top