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So I understand that some of the comments here in this thread are of the "smartazz" variety...
Which can be funny at times...
That said...
Let's all remember rule Number One : Be excellent to each other.
Thank you,
Andy
 
So I understand that some of the comments here in this thread are of the "smartazz" variety...
Which can be funny at times...
That said...
Let's all remember rule Number One : Be excellent to each other.
Thank you,
Andy

If he had said "your momma insists on it" now that would have crossed the line. :D

E
 
All this talk of safeties on/off, unloading springs etc. reminds me of the perennial problem of how to lower the striker/hammer on an empty chamber without dry firing on certain guns. There are a couple of guns where the only solution seems to be a snap cap except that doesn't leave the chamber empty. I've used a plastic rod down the bore to absorb the firing pin strike on, for instance, a Colt pocket hammerless when being stored long term but I need a large long one for my 870. Most guns can be closed without cocking or let the hammer slowly ride the bolt closed to relax the springs without dry firing but some mechanisms totally thwart that effort. It's dry fire or store cocked:eek:

Maybe I need to make a cleaning rod tip that can act as a snap cap.
 
All this talk of safeties on/off, unloading springs etc. reminds me of the perennial problem of how to lower the striker/hammer on an empty chamber without dry firing on certain guns. There are a couple of guns where the only solution seems to be a snap cap except that doesn't leave the chamber empty. I've used a plastic rod down the bore to absorb the firing pin strike on, for instance, a Colt pocket hammerless when being stored long term but I need a large long one for my 870. Most guns can be closed without cocking or let the hammer slowly ride the bolt closed to relax the springs without dry firing but some mechanisms totally thwart that effort. It's dry fire or store cocked:eek:

Maybe I need to make a cleaning rod tip that can act as a snap cap.
That might be an idea to appease the pretty-pink-panty-peeing paranoid hyponchondriacs... Naaah, if it's not this it'll be some other equally noisome and equally jejune demand.

This is kindergarten stuff, "if you give a mouse a cookie..."
 
It depends on the gun and just how the hammer strikes the firing pin.
For instance:
It is bad to dry fire most double barrel shotguns ( side x side and over & under )...You will break the firing pins eventually.
Dry firing a percussion firearm is bad as well...you can deform the percussion nipple...
Breakage or damage can also occur if you dry fire a 1873 "Trapdoor" Springfield...

Not to hip on newer firearms...so to be safe , I rarely dry fire any firearm , unless I have a snap cap or expended cartridge in the gun...
Andy
 
I was under the impression that an occasional dry fire isn't that big of a deal, other than rim-fires... No?

Pretty much what Andy said and more. In a dry fire, all the energy of the firing pin strike is expended abruptly against something internal. The shock can cause metal fatigue and over repeated events cause the firing pin to break. Square corners or even tool marks on the part can act in a "tear along the perforations" manner to accelerate the effect. I used to design demolition hammers and I've seen 2"-4" diameter pieces of hardened chisel steel break in this manner. As a 12 yo kid, I couldn't resist dry firing the new 870 Rem I'd gotten for Christmas...repeatedly :(. A couple of years later, I did the same thing with Dad's M1 trying to strengthen my off hand technique. Just the very tip of the pin broke off (slow learner). Fortunately, in both cases replacement firing pins were easy to come by. Not always the case on old or uncommon guns. Dry firing is something you can get away with sometimes (sometimes a lot as in the case of a 1911) but it's generally best avoided as much as possible.
 
This right here 100%, it is SOP for everyone I know that carries a carbine for a living. Seems to me the OP needs to learn a little more about his weapon and worry a little less about how others handle theirs. Look up "cruiser ready" and "rack ready".


Why is this? My HD has a loaded chamber with safety on. The only "jam" I have ever had with any AR other than 1 was manually loading the first round, so a home invasion seems like a bad time to load it?

When I am carrying my 300 blk pistol in the woods, I also have 1 in the chamber unless I am climbing over brush and stuff.


Just wondering If I am missing something?
 
Dry firing on an AR or AK can cause the firing pin to wear out, but how long will it take? Probably too long for it to matter. Whereas other guns it may not be that way, some are more sensitive to dry firing than others.

The only "jam" I have ever had with any AR other than 1 was manually loading the first round, so a home invasion seems like a bad time to load it?
I kinda feel like this is dependent on the individual and the gun as well... With an AK the only way to have a misfeed from manually loading it is if you baby, IE follow the handle instead of just letting it slam forward. Same with ARs really, but tbh I never liked the charging handle on the AR. Side charging ARs I don't see that happening much tbh, but just depends on the person.

Its easier to pull the BCG all the way back when the charging handle is on the side is all.
 
I honestly hadn't ever thought of making sure photographed guns had the safety on.

Often the guns I photograph are unloaded, so safeties may not be on.

I have personally witnessed more than one accidental discharge, in person, and heard of numerous others from people I know. So firearm safety is a real world concern, to me.

But I have never cared whether photos taken of one of my firearms was with it loaded or unloaded, safety on or safety off. But now that it has been brought up, I will be more careful to show all guns photographed to be on Safe, especially if the photos end up being published somewhere.
 
A Glock should never be seen or heard.
A Ghost gun?
Close.. they should subdued or camo in color to blend in with the background...and of corse suppressed.
I'm almost there.. any day I'll have the supressor out of jail. B50BB3D6-372C-45C7-89C1-74571DAB6BB0.jpeg then those pesky ninjas, or Nazi Zombies won't see, or hear me coming till it's too late... me from one side with my silent invisaGlock, and Chuck from the other with a roundhouse kick to the face..
 
Pretty much what Andy said and more. In a dry fire, all the energy of the firing pin strike is expended abruptly against something internal. The shock can cause metal fatigue and over repeated events cause the firing pin to break. Square corners or even tool marks on the part can act in a "tear along the perforations" manner to accelerate the effect. I used to design demolition hammers and I've seen 2"-4" diameter pieces of hardened chisel steel break in this manner. As a 12 yo kid, I couldn't resist dry firing the new 870 Rem I'd gotten for Christmas...repeatedly :(. A couple of years later, I did the same thing with Dad's M1 trying to strengthen my off hand technique. Just the very tip of the pin broke off (slow learner). Fortunately, in both cases replacement firing pins were easy to come by. Not always the case on old or uncommon guns. Dry firing is something you can get away with sometimes (sometimes a lot as in the case of a 1911) but it's generally best avoided as much as possible.

Interesting.... I never really dry fire any of my guns for trigger "practice" or other unnecessary reasons, but I typically do before I put them away (e.g. mag empty, chamber empty, dry fire to take the energy off the sprint, put it away...) Maybe I should rethink that (or get some snap caps for storage).
 

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