AR trigger job? Bobbing the stock hammer?

[beezer66]

the worst ive had is a fail to reset after 1 round is fired. no slam fire or run away. what happened was the setscrew walked forward after about 2-300 rounds. after that i started to use locktite.

I use the second set screw to lock the first one in place. My method; set safety to on, run set screw in until it makes contact with trigger, back off 1/2 turn. Run second set screw in until it makes contact with first set screw and tighten 1/4 turn. I have not seen any issues with the screws moving.

I don't run loc-tite on mine just in case I decide on a different trigger in the future. On the JP trigger I red loc-tite the set screws as per instructions.

My issue with the piston upper is the sharp recoil, not a push like DI uppers. I think that is what caused my multiple shot problem.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

I use the second set screw to lock the first one in place. My method; set safety to on, run set screw in until it makes contact with trigger, back off 1/2 turn. Run second set screw in until it makes contact with first set screw and tighten 1/4 turn. I have not seen any issues with the screws moving.

I don't run loc-tite on mine just in case I decide on a different trigger in the future. On the JP trigger I red loc-tite the set screws as per instructions.

My issue with the piston upper is the sharp recoil, not a push like DI uppers. I think that is what caused my multiple shot problem.

never shot a piston driven AR. only sks and AK. i only have DI guns as far as my AR types. the only one that has any recoil/push is my bone stock build that cost me $360bucks. the others have heavy buffers and brakes/comps on them. those feel like my 10/22

 

[clearconscience]

yes and i like tinkering ha ha.

this custom AR deal is a disease. first you buy one. then you modify it by buying parts because its no good enough and your $700 rifle becomes a $2600 recoiless precision machine. then you think "hey, this is fun why dont i build one..." then you build a 300blk pistol and instead of buying a CMC trigger this time you do a custom trigger job and actually shop around instead of JUST BUY your build only turns out to be $1200 and once that gun is done... here comes the suppressor. and while you wait for it to come you think "man, im bored" and dust off that anderson lower thats been in the back of the safe for years and browse NWFA classifieds for trades and sales for parts. now a guy has 3 AR type rifles and from there its the snoball effect!

hope i got it right for most of us... LOL!

Truth!
After the forst AR and tinkering you just say F it and start building them. Then you don't have a mounting junk drawer of AR take off parts.

It's easier to buy all the parts you want and assemble then it is to buy one take it all a part and then rebuild.

 

[coop44]

Time was I could swap around hammers/sears/triggers until I reached "pretty good for stock" then did a "15 minute trigger job" always came out fine. Always polished the bearing surfaces of the pins too, don't know if it helped but it made me feel better. Not trying to make it into a hole punch anyway, just a good service rifle.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

If certain parts and certain rifles don't make it to me too soon, i'll be pulling out the AR for a clean and parts fitting session.
I have to say that the custom trigger job will be happening at the same time, dremmel polishing wheel and mothers metal polish came up a treat on my GP100.

 

[coop44]

Careful with hammer sear engagement, best to polish those areas with a flat stone. You want to avoid creating a smaller area of engagement. Best to build a jig to actually see how they engage, something similar to what is used for 1911's.

It is quite possible some of your great trigger jobs could be the result of partial engagement. When the surfaces that do engage start to wear it could result in either a heavier trigger pull or a dangerously light one or a hammer that follows the bolt.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

That's all good advice, thank you.

I will say that my work has been mostly reserved to polishing surfaces (as opposed to taking away material) and removing machining marks or obvious manufacturing 'extras'.