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so I was looking at some videos on how to do a cheap trigger job.

I upgraded the springs on one of my ARs to JP reduced power springs and was getting light primer strikes. So I switched the hammer spring back to stock. Problem solved.
But I read that if you bob the hammer putting the higher power spring isn't necessary.
Anyone have experience in this?

Would an AR10 react in the same way? Would bobbing the hammer on a .308 cause light primer strikes?
 
Thanks for reminding me of this, i'd forgotten that i was going to home brew my AR trigger. It is, however, at the bottom of the list right now, even of the list for the dang rifle (furniture etc)
 
so I was looking at some videos on how to do a cheap trigger job.

I upgraded the springs on one of my ARs to JP reduced power springs and was getting light primer strikes. So I switched the hammer spring back to stock. Problem solved.
But I read that if you bob the hammer putting the higher power spring isn't necessary.
Anyone have experience in this?

Would an AR10 react in the same way? Would bobbing the hammer on a .308 cause light primer strikes?


AR trigger kits have become so affordable, that I would not skimp when it comes to the trigger by trying a home remedy.

There are lots of affordable kits in the $50 to $70 range.

WMD NiB-X Coated Trigger / Hammer Set - .154" - NiBXFCG - Primary Arms (http://www.primaryarms.com/nibxfcg/p/nibxfcg/)

Spikes Tactical Battle Trigger SLA01BT 5.5 lb - Primary Arms (http://www.primaryarms.com/sla01bt/p/sla01bt/)

ALG Defense Combat Trigger - ACT - 05-199 - Primary Arms (http://www.primaryarms.com/05-199/p/05-199/)

.
 
What does that look like...can you post a pic?

image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
Yeah those triggers are $50-$80.
The springs and adjustment screw will set you back about $20-25. And a quick buffer job.
I like doing the work myself.

Makes me feel special.
i install jp yellows then i polish the sear surfaces until they're like glass. 600, 800,1200,2000grit wet sand. then i red locktite a 1/4x28 set screw in the grip hole until the selector doesnt move... i back it out just enough for the selector to function. spikes t2 is my buffer of choice along with a 2 or 3 chamber brake.
 
I do the set screw through the grip on my rifles that have mil-spec style triggers. I have JP triggers and hammers in the others. All my AR's have JP yellow springs. Cheap upgrade $10-11 for springs and less than 50 cents for the set screws. I don't use loc-tite; I use 2 set screws and cut the grip screw down.

Use caution when using set screws on the trigger, the hammer can bounce off of the the disconnect and have a run away or burst fire situation. Happened to me with a CMMG piston upper. Fixed that by bobbing the hammer. No problems with direct impingement uppers.
 
I do the set screw through the grip on my rifles that have mil-spec style triggers. I have JP triggers and hammers in the others. All my AR's have JP yellow springs. Cheap upgrade $10-11 for springs and less than 50 cents for the set screws. I don't use loc-tite; I use 2 set screws and cut the grip screw down.

Use caution when using set screws on the trigger, the hammer can bounce off of the the disconnect and have a run away or burst fire situation. Happened to me with a CMMG piston upper. Fixed that by bobbing the hammer. No problems with direct impingement uppers.
the worst ive had is a fail to reset after 1 round is fired. no slam fire or run away. what happened was the setscrew walked forward after about 2-300 rounds. after that i started to use locktite.
 
Is this to remove mass to minimize the risk of light primer strikes with the yellow spring?

yes and i like tinkering ha ha.

this custom AR deal is a disease. first you buy one. then you modify it by buying parts because its no good enough and your $700 rifle becomes a $2600 recoiless precision machine. then you think "hey, this is fun why dont i build one..." then you build a 300blk pistol and instead of buying a CMC trigger this time you do a custom trigger job and actually shop around instead of JUST BUY your build only turns out to be $1200 and once that gun is done... here comes the suppressor:eek:. and while you wait for it to come you think "man, im bored" and dust off that anderson lower thats been in the back of the safe for years and browse NWFA classifieds for trades and sales for parts. now a guy has 3 AR type rifles and from there its the snoball effect!

hope i got it right for most of us... LOL!

:cool::D:p
 

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