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AR lower parts kit, 2 stage vs standard trigger

Discussion in 'Rifle Discussion' started by Key-Hay, Mar 2, 2012.

  1. Key-Hay

    Key-Hay North Carolina Active Member

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    So I have purchased my first stripped lower. was planning to do an inexpensive AR build. Both of my current ARs have 2 stage triggers and I really like the feel. LPKs for standard triggers are $50-$60. 2 Stage LPKs are $140-$200.

    Question 1. Can a standard trigger be polished up to give a smooth pull? I know it won't be a true 2 stage, but at triple the cost I'm thinking of staying with the standard trigger LPK.
    Question 2. Who puts out a good standard trigger LPK. Was looking at DPMS.
     
  2. eldbillbo

    eldbillbo clackamas New world samurai and a redneck none the less Bronze Supporter

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    get a $10 set of JP reduced power springs . it will be the best $10 spent on your Ar that is if all you want to do is make it a more comfortable trigger pull and if you are only shooting 5.56 (.223) they wont ignite the 5.45 primers

    or you can look up the 15min do it your self trigger job its free and i tried it and does help but i prefer just swoping the springs.

    or you can use the JP springs with just a little polish never tried that but sounds like a good idea i may have to try it but i am so happy with the JP springs i just don't think i need it much better than that.

    I do own the 2 stage type and i prefer the JP springs over them (cause its cheap and really works) except if you have hard primers like for a 5.45 upper you would need to look into something like a Geiselle trigger

    or send it to bill springfield pretty reasonable and great work
     
  3. Mister_E

    Mister_E Oregon Active Member

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  4. madcratebuilder

    madcratebuilder Ardenwald, OR Well-Known Member

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    ArmaLite sells two stage LPK's for $120. Superior to the RRA, the Tactical two stage is the best two stage I have used and easy work with. ArmaLite has some tech notes posted that show you how to tune the trigger. Low pull weights with a JP hammer spring have been reliable for me. Trigger breaks like a two stage Geissele with a bit more reset travel.
     
  5. DirectDrive

    DirectDrive Vancouver, WA Member

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    Don't look at the DPMS. Good chance for a gritty, heavy trigger.


    I used a Daniel Defense LPK and as reported, it came with a very, very good USGI trigger.
    About $20 more than a standard LPK.

    Another way to go is to purchase a bare bones LPK from PSA and add one of the newly released ALG triggers. ($45)
    Go to Rainier Arms for the ALG triggers.
    PSA = Palmetto State Armory
     
  6. jonn5335

    jonn5335 Longview Active Member

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    I put JP springs in my Ar as well they arent bad for under $10 but the trigger does'nt break well like expensive triggers which are nice for shooting longer ranges and trying for tighter groups but still better than a factory trigger
     
  7. DoubleTapDrew

    DoubleTapDrew Oregon Well-Known Member

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    The consistent thing I hear about DPMS is their rifles are very accurate, but they have awful triggers. I'd look elsewhere for a trigger.
    You can polish the contact surfaces (carefully, you don't want to remove the hard coating) and it makes a little difference. I tried it on one of mine and it cleaned it up a little but it's still nothing like a custom trigger.
    I'm looking to get an ALG when they are in stock. It's a company started by Mr. Geissele's wife that slicks up factory style triggers at reasonable prices. Sounds like a great way to get a very nice trigger pull without going full bore on a $200 trigger.
    I have a RRA 2-stage and a geissele 2-stage. The geissele is superior but the RRA is about half the price. The complaint I hear about RRA 2-stages is losing their first stage after 5k rounds or so. Since mine is in a .308 if I can afford to put $5k of ammo though it I'll pony up for a better trigger if that happens.
     
  8. mjbskwim

    mjbskwim Salmon,Idaho Well-Known Member

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    I don't see why the two stage is all the rage? (sorry). Seems longer and not much better to me.
    I went with the Chip McCormick triggers for both ARs.$200 but feel so nice and crisp.Must be 2#s
    As far as the LPKs the Daniels are $20 better than the DPMS,but that's all.Very little difference to me.Not that much smoother

    The $200 spent on the trigger unit was well worth it to me. Plug and play.
     
  9. DirectDrive

    DirectDrive Vancouver, WA Member

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    I wouldn't say that they're "all the rage" since they are present in 1903, 1903A3, M1, M14 etc.
    Some will say that the 2 stage is how a trigger is supposed to feel.
    One advantage a 2 stage has over a single stage is that you can put a really light trigger pull on a gun without sacrificing safety.

    A 2 stage trigger is a lot like a double action pistol trigger, except way way lighter and smoother, and the mechanics are totally different. The "2 Stage" term really applies to the mechanics of the trigger itself.

    The other advantage is that as you breath to control your muscle twitch, you can take up the trigger just before the break (you can feel this), then when you're ready for the shot, you only apply a small push to break the trigger. This results in a much more precise trigger pull, with less twitch in the end.

    For those coming from single stage bolt guns, a light single stage might feel more natural.
    It's all personal preference.

    So, not all the rage, a time-proven concept, actually.
     
  10. coop44

    coop44 Tacoma ,WA Well-Known Member

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  11. madcratebuilder

    madcratebuilder Ardenwald, OR Well-Known Member

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    Bending or cutting springs is not the way to do it. Some very light stoning well give you a smooth trigger. You well still have creep and a long reset. To correct these you need to do some more advanced work. Even welding extra material and re-hardening surfaces.
     
  12. iamme

    iamme Lane County Well-Known Member

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    JP springs and set screw, or just pony up $$.
     
  13. coop44

    coop44 Tacoma ,WA Well-Known Member

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    Mad crate, I usually have several hammers and triggers and swap them out until I find the best combination for the least amount of creep, heck of a lot easier than adding and removing material. Suprising how much they vary! Also, in addition to the 15 minute job I have a couple of little tricks, primary being to polish the bearing surfaces where the hammer and trigger ride. This keeps the pins from rotating by lessening friction. Really improves the feel. Bending or cutting the springs accomplishes the same thing as putting in "reduced power" springs that so many reccomend, without costing you anything.

    without a proper jig hand stoning can cant the mating surface resulting in something that is going to result in a surface that only partially mates. That too will give you a lighter pull until it wears back to a fully mated surface, if you are removing the "leg" of the mating area it could give you an unwanted hammer fall.

    Funny, we used to take the 2 stage trigger feature out of military rifles. I suppose 2 stages have become fashionable again.