AR Failure To Feed Problem

[nk02442]

It's a good thing you're never a jerk, you jerk. You don't know me. You don't know that rifle.

And yet u can't get the gun to run. Obvious observations are obvious.

 

[P7M13]

It's a good thing you're never a jerk, you jerk. You don't know me. You don't know that rifle.

Easy Hoss. There will always be armchair gunsmiths and commandos.

If'n it used to run flawlessly and the only real change is it was sitting in a safe:

• Was the bolt locked back in that time? If so, replace the buffer spring.
• If you remove the buffer weight and shake it, can you feel & hear the weights rattle around? If not, replace.
• What mags did you use before? There was an issue with some Hexmags a year or two ago.
• Probably the bolt moving back far enough. I've had it happen. Put some carbon cleaner down the gas tube....
• Also clean the buffer tube....

Good luck. Let us know what works.

 

[Mecanik]

Be nice everybody.

 

[Soren]

I've had to be out of town for a few day, so I haven;t had time to mess with anything other than what I tried the week before.

 

[Soren]

And yet u can't get the gun to run. Obvious observations are obvious.

It use to run, and it use to run very well. Then it sat for a couple years. It is not my only AR that I have built, I have several, they run great. I am only having issues with this one.

I've had to be out of town for a few day, so I haven;t had time to mess with anything other than what I tried the week before. I'll get it sorted out, it may be another week before I can do much.

 

[rjmt]

I've read the entire thread but didn't catch what length gas system this is, what type buffer spring or what your buffer weights are

I've built 4 ARs from scratch and upgraded 2 others

I only have one carbine length gas system ,if this a carbine length, first thing I would do is replace the gas tube

I've used David Tubbs flat wire springs in all

my failure to feed was alway buffer weight related

 

[rjmt]

and one more question - where is your brass landing on ejection - how far from rifle and at what angle such as 3 Oclock or so

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

probably a plugged or restricted gas port/gas tube. frog lube does solidify.

 

[titsonritz]

Ejector looks too high? Is this a 80% build? I have not read any other answers. Also try polishing and blending the M4 receiver cut outs with the barrel extension feed famps. Is there also something wrong with the bolt stop? Looks too low.

Just me.

That is not an 80% lower is is a Sharps Bros "The Jack" lower, I'm guessing 1st gen...
The Jack (AR15)

 

[titsonritz]

Does the bolt lock back to the rear on the last round?

 

[Lasers]

and one more question - where is your brass landing on ejection - how far from rifle and at what angle such as 3 Oclock or so

probably a plugged or restricted gas port/gas tube. frog lube does solidify.

This is what I'm thinking too.

I bet the brass lands somewhere around 5 o'clock... Under gassed due to a restricted port or tube.

 

[Mygrainman]

I don't think it's an ammo issue, or a mag issue.
By the looks of the bolt it's obvious you're running brass ammo with enough upward force from the mags to give it brass racing stripes across the bottom..


Your buffer is a little beat, so maybe step up the weight to slow it down a little and make sure spring the right length and you didn't get a Rifle spring in there by accident.
... I'm very curios what kind of gas block your running...
It was brought up before, that debris in the gas port, block or tube, or a loose or off centered block is good possibility...

 

[Mygrainman]

.....and as I was typing, others seem to have made the same point

 

[aknate]

I have this AR (.223 Wylde) that I put together five or six years ago. Previously, it's always ran really really well. Unfortunately (after a couple other AR builds) It's been sitting in the safe for a couple of years and I finally took it out a couple of days ago (I should have cleaned it first before going out) and went to the range. It ran really sluggish since it was really gunked up (I think the last time I cleaned was with frog lube which really sucks if you're going to keep a firearm stored for a long time).
So, I cleaned it up really well including taking bolt carrier group apart and cleaning it up really well. Yesterday, I went back to the range and it ran a lot smoother, but about every few rounds I would get a failure to feed. I would either get the kind where the bolt would not pick up a round at all, then have to pull the charging handle a couple times to pick up a round or the kind where the round would not fully enter the chamber (which is even more frustrating if you are not paying attention and try to pull the charging handle again and get an attempted double feed). I only took two magazines with me. One was just some generic 5.56 magazine and the other was a HexMag.
Anyway...
What should I look for? What can I do to try to fix failure to feed issues?

Just because people are going to ask, here are some photos...
View attachment 732735

View attachment 732736


View attachment 732737

View attachment 732738

View attachment 732739

View attachment 732740
View attachment 732741

View attachment 732742

SPORTS ……………………………………..

 

[aknate]

That lower is most likely one of the many components which are out of spec.

There are so many variables to account for especially in a junk parts gun thrown together by someone who doesn't understand the system its almost impossible to diagnose without ripping it apart and starting from scratch.

Dang guy, angry about Milspec no-name MFG'S?
An AR is a AR.
Decent gun, But designed for retards.
Trust me I was one just like a lot of others on the board..……………………………...

 

[Lasers]

Here's what I was looking for

 

[nk02442]

Dang guy, angry about Milspec no-name MFG'S?
An AR is a AR.
Decent gun, But designed for retards.
Trust me I was one just like a lot of others on the board..……………………………...

No its not, it cannot be further from the truth. You have a whole lot to learn before you give anyone advice on this platform.

There are hundreds if not thousands of critical dimensions that all come into play, that facilitate a reliable and properly built AR.

There are over a dozen for feeding alone.

Cobbling a bunch of junk parts together from various manufactures built to various specs, with various to no QC/QA may result in a gun that will fire. It also has a very high probability of not running reliably and correctly. Start introducing more variables, and its a crap shoot.

What do you think happens when you change the magwell of an AR? This abonination lower is probally the issue, or atleast part of it. The Mag needs to flex under operation to ensure the bolt can pick up the next round at the correct height to ensure smooth feeding into the ramps. Add in a bunch of other questionable, non spec parts and this is what you end up with.

The internet boards are littered with people who can't get their gun to run. Just because an AR snaps together like Legos, doesn't mean it will function correctly.

Had he used known quantity parts and not a bunch of cheap trash AND had he the knowledge of the system to build it correctly, there would be no thread on this.

But the affliction shirt crowd and low IQ gun owners eat up this junk because they just don't know any better.

Which is exactly why they are better off buying a quality factory gun, or at the very least, slapping quality upper/lower together to save the 11% FET.

This is one of those situations where the guy you are talking to has forgotten more about this platform then you will ever know. It would be wise to read more and post less. Maybe you will learn something.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

guys, lets help this guy get his gun working. telling people they dont know anything isnt helping. telling the OP he has a junk gun isnt helping. for all we know its something easy. quit trying to bash him. ive personally put together the cheapest of cheap junk ARs and it runs fine. relax or GTFO.

 

[nk02442]

It was in response to the guy who is trying to throw cold water on the fact that Quality is Quality.

You get these people that have 1 AR and little to no experience who want to argue about things outside of their depth.

Throwing a bunch of cheap parts together is a crap shoot. Less of a crap shoot if you know what to look for.

Just because it fires doesn't mean it will continue to work after 100, 1000, 5000, 10000.... you get the idea.

We have 30+ years of data and experience leading us to these conclusions. At this point its not even a debate.

I told the guy what to do to get it running. You can't daignoss something with this many issues over the internet. At the very least he needs a complete tear down, but I doubt he knows how, Hence why he should throw it in the trash and buy something decent.

 

[rjmt]

Here's what I was looking for

View attachment 736791

I love this chart, I had to learn this the hard way as I was tuning my ARs
I learned when I built my first 6.5 Grendel carbine
yes, tuning an AR is a skill set many AR builders don't understand
but since this AR worked at one time, many of the variables were worked out
thanks for this chart
on a properly tuned AR, one can drop most of your brass in a 5 gal bucket in the ZONE