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CMMG upper so far under an Eotech wouldn't even grip the rail
AERO first tap on the trigger guard roll pin with a nylon hammer sheared the ear off

Never had a problem with anything else, never dealt with Anderson
@HB of CJ shared a tip for installing the trigger guard, and that's to use a vice, not a hammer. Both work. One eliminates the possibility of shearing.
 
My first 80% lower was an Anderson so watched a few videos on installing the LPK. One guy used a small piece of plywood that was just the right height for under the trigger guard, no broken ears. :)
I now use billit lowers only.;)
 
Revival of the non fitting parts thread...

See anything wrong with it???
I was in the middle of the build and noticed it and not wanting to wait for a new one I pulled out my Gisselle LP SGB I was saving....
C'mon! Just bend the gas tube!

Received a barrel where the chamber was gouging the brass. Manufacturer is sending a new one.
Ordered a AR10 LPK and received an AR15 one instead.....
 
C'mon! Just bend the gas tube!

Received a barrel where the chamber was gouging the brass. Manufacturer is sending a new one.
Ordered a AR10 LPK and received an AR15 one instead.....

I actually cut a carbine tube down to pistol and bent it into place on my 300 blk. Works fine!
 
C'mon! Just bend the gas tube!

Received a barrel where the chamber was gouging the brass. Manufacturer is sending a new one.
Ordered a AR10 LPK and received an AR15 one instead.....

I tried but didn't want to kink it with all the pressure I was putting on it...:eek:

I remember a time the Dentist put his knee on my chin when pulling my wisdom teeth???
That's the kind of thing that will:
1) break the part....
2) make one injure themselves....


:p:p:p:p:po_O:confused:
 
I tried but didn't want to kink it with all the pressure I was putting on it...:eek:

I remember a time the Dentist put his knee on my chin when pulling my wisdom teeth???
That's the kind of thing that will:
1) break the part....
2) make one injure themselves....


:p:p:p:p:po_O:confused:
Good thing you didn't have a glass jaw.

My ex had to have her wisdom teeth out at 30. Took her to a specialist - I call him "whack'em & stack 'em." He'd gas the patient, drill for 30 seconds, then a solid CRACK. Tooth out, less than 1 minute. Patient in to patient out to recovery area was probably 15 minutes.
 
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Lol i never knew people had issues installing trigger guards and having recievers break.

Besides that. I had a cmmg parts kit that absolutely would NOT fit in my reciever. So i bought a spikes kit and it wemt together.

Everything from the roll pins, to the other parts just werent right.
 
The bottom trigger guard ear typically gets snapped off from the receiver rolling over during installation, it is not from sticking the pin with a punch and hammer and is easily prevented by installing the grip (even if only temporary) first to prevent the roll over, with everything supported the tab will not snap off, no fancy pusher needed.
 
The bottom trigger guard ear typically gets snapped off from the receiver rolling over during installation, it is not from sticking the pin with a punch and hammer and is easily prevented by installing the grip (even if only temporary) first to prevent the roll over, with everything supported the tab will not snap off, no fancy pusher needed.

I suppose that makes sense. I have done the grip and trugger guard as the last 2 items installed on a lower.
 
On my last build I splurged on an SLR Rifleworks handguard. The barrel nut OD was too large and I couldn't get the gas tube in. I ended up dremeling a few thou off the top so I could get it in and made sure the carrier key wasn't impinging on it. I even verified it was the barrel nut bot trying to do the install on a different upper.

Was kind of surprised given the cost of the hand guard. I am going to have to likely move it to another build anyway as the hand guard ID is so small that I can't mount the bipod at the end where I wanted.

It looks/feels great but the execution for my use case was disappointing.
 
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A trick I did for the trigger guard roll pins, a cheap pair of channel lock pliers. I drilled into the jaw with a 1/8" drill bit to create a divot.
I use a piece of leather that also has a hole. Wrap the leather to form a "U" to the other ear, and slowly squeeze. Works slick. No fuss.
 
I HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM ! ….. That wasn't my fault. I have had one local billet and mostly cheaper lowers like Delton or Anderson even Bear Creek. I consider Aero Precision to be a big step up for me. Uppers I care more about them and more often buy complete or partially complete uppers from Aero Precision, Armalite, Noveske, or PWS.

For some reason I have never broken a AR Part during assembly, disassembly, re-assembly
 
A trick I did for the trigger guard roll pins, a cheap pair of channel lock pliers. I drilled into the jaw with a 1/8" drill bit to create a divot.
I use a piece of leather that also has a hole. Wrap the leather to form a "U" to the other ear, and slowly squeeze. Works slick. No fuss.
I have a pair of Craftsman 'Robo" pliers and use cloth for protection. I use them for the bolt catch roll pins too.
 
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Out of speck cam pin on a new BCG. I had a heck of time getting it removed from the upper receiver. Swapped it out with another cam pin and the BCG cycled great. Also, had problems with crush washers for the 5/8-24 muzzle devices....threw away all the thin ones because those would go oblong on me and look hideous. The thicker ones always have a professional appearance once the muzzle device is timed.
 
After seeing this thread come back to life, I just reached out to Anderson Mfg this AM to see if they'll help me out with that out-of-spec lower I posted about a while back. Worthless to me as is, hopefully they'll help me out.
 
My latest put together AR either has a buffer tube or buttstock out of spec. Both are new parts bought online. When I fire from the full extension position it slips back to one of the mid length points. I swapped the buttsock but haven has a chance to try it yet. Seems like a benign issue but any follow up shot is way off and even the initial shot is off due to so much movement. This is the most mixed parts rifle and cheapest I have. Brownells, Anderson, Bravo, CMMG, PSA and a few internet special parts that are all supposed to be milspec.

It's unreliable at this point because it's having light strikes and Failure to Fire. I have lighter trigger springs so I attribute it to that for the time being. No time to shoot but I want to instal a nicer than milspec trigger that will reliably shoot steel cased ammo.
 

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