AR Build Safety Selector

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I'm building my first AR lower. I just put the safety selector/spring/grip in and see that the indicator for the selector seems to be off. Is my understanding of the selector design accurate that the detent just rides in a groove, so there isn't a way to adjust this alignment?

Fire
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_198f.jpg

Safe
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_198e.jpg
 
OP
TorchRedTulsan
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Does the safety work at that angle?
45° instead of 90° some are advised as short throw. It should still work, just doesn't look quite right.
It does work as expected. It's an Aero lower and LPK with an Elftmann SE trigger. Neither of those websites mention the angle and I wasn't aware that was a thing. Thanks for the education.
 

Jonnyuma

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Some safety levers allow the end user to clock it to a 45, 60, or 90° throw. Your lower is marked for a 90° throw... check the lever's 'struction sheet to see if you have the option of changing it (should be a flush screw on the other side to adjust). Usually they're marketed that way so you know what you're getting.

If it bothers you (it would bug me) get a different lever... luckily they're not a terribly expensive part. I've never found the 90° throw on my M16, M4, or ARs to really be a detriment to my speed or accuracy (I suck and I'm slow already). But I DO like the ambi-lever now that I've had one (as an experiment) for a couple of years.
 
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OP
TorchRedTulsan
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Some safety levers allow the end user to clock it to a 45, 60, or 90° throw. Your lower is marked for a 90° throw... check the lever's 'struction sheet to see if you have the option of changing it (should be a flush screw on the other side to adjust).

If it bothers you (it would bug me) get a different lever... luckily they're not a terribly expensive part.
It does bug me. It's just the basic LPK from Aero which doesn't come with instructions (at least mine didn't). I'll take it back apart and see if I can see a screw on the back side
 

Jonnyuma

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It does bug me. It's just the basic LPK from Aero which doesn't come with instructions (at least mine didn't). I'll take it back apart and see if I can see a screw on the back side
If it doesn't SAY that it's adjustable (or permanantly short-throw) then that's weird.
The screw would (I think) be on the exterior of the off-side... where the right side lever would attatch for an ambidextrous selector.

Handsome dog, btw.
 
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Heyjoe

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When you take it apart snap a picture of the channel. I'm interested to see if it wasn't machined correctly.

Is it possible that the parts are rough and binding prematurely? I've had selectors that were pretty dang tight myself.
 
OP
TorchRedTulsan
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If it doesn't SAY that it's adjustable (or permanantly short-throw) then that's weird.
The screw would (I think) be on the exterior of the off-side... where the right side lever would attatch for an ambidextrous selector.
The LPK box was just a ziplock bag of parts. No instructions or description or anything. Here's the website which just says it's all milspec.
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_1990.jpg

When you take it apart snap a picture of the channel. I'm interested to see if it wasn't machined correctly.

Is it possible that the parts are rough and binding prematurely? I've had selectors that were pretty dang tight myself.
Well, I tried to take it apart but the trigger uses 2 set screws (in addition to the anti-walk pins) to press the trigger group up into the anti-walk pins. These set screws are loctited in place and in a location that's a bit of a pain to remove, under the springs. The screws pushing the trigger up into the pins has it interferring with removing the safety selector. Without a safety issue (no pun intended) or a definite resolution, I'm hesitant to disassemble it, break the loctite, and have to start over with setting the trigger.
g+0mdIsuTRK5HDGpjIQz0w_thumb_1991.jpg
 

Heyjoe

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Well, I tried to take it apart but the trigger uses 2 set screws (in addition to the anti-walk pins) to press the trigger group up into the anti-walk pins. These set screws are loctited in place and in a location that's a bit of a pain to remove, under the springs. The screws pushing the trigger up into the pins has it interferring with removing the safety selector. Without a safety issue (no pun intended) or a definite resolution, I'm hesitant to disassemble it, break the loctite, and have to start over with setting the trigger.
Sounds alot more involved than a milspec fcg. Can you wiggle the selector out with just the trigger/hammer pins knocked out?

This is what the selector looks like. The flat surface would be at six o'clock, when the selector is rotated 90° the radius blocks the triggers tail end maintaining full sear engagement. 16005585890623580386520731421875.jpg 16005586372225251686211250155436.jpg

Is it possible the tail of your trigger is too thick or somehow too high to allow for complete travel in the selector?
 
OP
TorchRedTulsan
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Is it possible the tail of your trigger is too thick or somehow too high to allow for complete travel in the selector?
I decided to disassemble this while watching the Le Mans race.

This was it! I REALLY wanted to make sure that trigger was snugged up against the anti-walk pins, but it appears I turned the set screws too far which pushed the tail too high into the selector. I loosened it and everything rotates correctly. The click that I thought was the detent engaging the Safe position was actually it engaging the landing between Safe and Fire.

theres something wrong with that trigger if it makes your selector do that. . take the grip off first

your selector should be like this before you put the grip on and put the detent in

View attachment 752103
The assembly instructions I've been using (Pew Pew Tactical's website) said to have the selector on Fire for install.

who made the trigger? and you need to fix it
It's an Elftmann ES drop in trigger. Got it fixed by loosening those set screws in the trigger

Thanks guys!!
 

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