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If you have a carbine buttstock system (telestock) you should first light up your new AR with the standard spring and buffer.
If it runs with anything, it will run with that.
Many will leave it that way if it's running well.

I tend to monkey with buffer weights more than springs after it's running well.
Just to monkey, I guess.
 
I change them so they are quieter. That sound when you let the rounds go slowly from inside the tube can be annoying with your ear just over it.

Frog lube the spring, buffer and inside the tube. Makes even cheap-o ones quieter by a LOT.
 
I use a JP polished spring if I want quite, but the best spring I have found is the tubbs flat wire. I then polish the OD of it, and use cherry balmz grease in my buffer tube, and their is 0 sproing.

I couple it with an h2 buffer. It is super reliable, and has pretty much an infinite life.
 
I use Sprinco for all my personal builds, blue for carbine RE and green for A5 & rifle.


WHAT MAKES OUR SPRINGS UNIQUE?

All of our springs are constructed from Certified Chrome Silicon wirestock to ISO 9001:2008 quality standards to withstand extreme heat and highly cyclic rate. The certification rating ensures a consistency in the parent material of 95%, which translates to repeatable consistency in performance & function. Certified Valve Quality Chrome Silicon wire is used in very high stress applications such as, NASCAR, Formula One, Moto GP & Pro Stock racing motor valve springs. It is not uncommon in some of these applications for valve springs to see 15,000,000 compression cycles in one race. It is this extraordinary capability that makes Chrome Silicon wire the obvious choice in our spring production vs. music wire or 17-7 PH used in OEM springs and by most aftermarket competitors. In addition, all of our Chrome Silicon buffer springs are heat treated, stress relieved, and dual-stage shot peened in separate post winding treatments. We also treat each spring with a proprietary, deep-penetrating, Re-Micronized (to .3 Micron particle size), inhibited, Molybdenum-Disulfide (MoS2) formulation to eliminate 90% of all mechanical wear on the spring. The combination of materials & processes result in a loss of no more than 5% in spring efficiency. The minimum anticipated duty cycles of our buffer spring designs are in excess of 1,500,000 cycles.

We take our extractor springs one step further with the addition of Cryogenic Processing. This computerized, ultra low temperature process (-320°F) increases the strength & wear life of the parent material through a change in microstructure resulting in less retained austenite and more uniformity in grain structure.

Why cryogenics for the extractor spring and not our other springs? Due to the size of the extractor spring, high stress cyclic rates and asymmetrical temperature exposure, premature wear and or shortened spring life can occur. Cryogenics effectively combats these issues giving the spring a very predictable & uniform performance within the operation of the weapon cycle.

While we really don't know how long our extractor springs will last, round counts in excess of 200,000 ROUNDS (ongoing) are documented on a single extractor spring. We have 5-Coil Extra Power, 4-Coil Enhanced Power, and Extra Power .308 Dual Spring Sets in our comprehensive extractor spring lineup below. Neither our extractor springs, nor any other commercially available extractor springs are shot peened due to the unfeasible cost of manual labor and wire fixturing of such tiny springs in a complex process
 
If you have a carbine buttstock system (telestock) you should first light up your new AR with the standard spring and buffer.
If it runs with anything, it will run with that.
Many will leave it that way if it's running well.

I tend to monkey with buffer weights more than springs after it's running well.
Just to monkey, I guess.

I disagree, a heavier buffer is the way to go, but then I don't shot Tula, PMC Bronze or other crappy underpowered ammo, 5.56 pressures for me. It all starts with a proper gas port size. IMO the standard carbine buffer is worthless garbage, I recommend an "H" buffer at minimum. H2 is better. H3 and 4 for suppressed, especially SBRs.
 
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When you store your rifle barrel up the oil runs down to the buffer tube and spring. When I want to oil my bolt and trigger group I just flip it. :) Heavy buffers here as well. No problems with PCM or Herters, .223, reloads or real 5.56.
 
I disagree, a heavier buffer is the way to go, but then I don't shot Tula, PMC Bronze or other crappy underpowered ammo, 5.56 pressures for me. It all starts with a proper gas port size. IMO the standard carbine buffer is worthless garbage, I recommend an "H" buffer at minimum. H2 is better. H3 and 4 for suppressed, especially SBRs.
"To get it running." (for the average recreational shooter)
I also run full power ammo and end up with H2 or H3.
 

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