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That's the other thought that I had. Reading online last night I found a tutorial for cutting down the factory gas block which I will probably end up doing to save myself some money. It makes sense to use what I have now as well, I know that what I have works well. Don't fix what's not broken right? :p

Now to just pull the whole thing apart and see what my current free float system will be compatible with.
 
Here's a pic of a standard front sight base that's been properly done, to get a rail to fit over it.


fsb1.jpg
 
Yes, believe it or not, dremelling the top portion off of the FSB will work. Seems scary, but you've obviously seen the tutorial. That's what I'd do, rather than messing with those taper pins, etc. etc. It would just be easier, and wouldn't hurt anything. Just paint the exposed metal with Alumahyde or Duracoat to protect from rust.
 
Here's what I found...


Originally Posted By FALARAK:
Make your own cut-down low profile gas block, step by step:[/size=4]

First, I started with a FSB that I had to dremel into to get the pins out. It was otherwise ruined, so I figured, why not cut it down???

www.kevinholman.com/byor/fsb/fsb1.jpg


Get a dremel and a cut-off tool, and start whacking the top off. I didnt even burn up one disc for the whole project!

www.kevinholman.com/byor/fsb/fsb2.jpg


First step complete:

www.kevinholman.com/byor/fsb/fsb3.jpg


Now cut off the sling mount and bayo lug, if desired:

www.kevinholman.com/byor/fsb/fsb4.jpg


Here is what she looks like at this point. Ugly!

www.kevinholman.com/byor/fsb/fsb6.jpg


The rest will be done with a sanding drum.... or you can use a griding stone. I find the drums, while they burn up quick, go a little faster:

www.kevinholman.com/byor/fsb/fsb7.jpg


Most of the rough work is done. At this point, just smooth it up a bit to look better:

www.kevinholman.com/byor/fsb/fsb8.jpg


If you are going to mount your FSB back on the same barrel it came off of.... then re-use your taper pins. If you are going to mount the FSB on a different barrel, you will need to drill and tap for set screws to hold it to the barrel. I then drilled with a #21 drill, and tapped with a 10-32 tap. I also had to taper-grind my set screws.... so they were more "pointy" on the front. Without doing this, they would bottom out against the barrel with hardly any threads, and would strip out. Dont get them too tight or they will trip. Use red-loctite on them so they wont back off.

www.kevinholman.com/byor/fsb/fsb9.jpg


A quick coat with flat black spray paint:

www.kevinholman.com/byor/fsb/fsb10.jpg


Finished product:

www.kevinholman.com/byor/fsb/fsb11.jpg
 
Don't dremel the pins out. They are tapered pins, so they will come out one direction, and go back in only one direction.

Just tap them out, they will come out.
 
I picked up a LMT Standard Patrol a few months ago. I bought this in reaction to the potentially changing political winds. I was never interested in ARs before, but now that I have one, I really like it.

I've also got a couple of stripped lowers (MEGA & Stag), but I haven't figured out what I want to build on them yet.
 
all stripped lowers are the same. are you going to recommend a colt? or lmt?

That’s not true some manufactories use 6061-T6 instead of 7075-T6 on some parts.


Why use 7075 instead of 6061 ?
Aluminum alloy 7075 is one of the highest strength aluminum alloys available. It's strength to weight ratio is excellent, and it is ideally used for highly stressed parts such as aircraft components. Thus it is known as a true "Aircraft Grade" aluminum.

7075 vs 6061 Comparison Chart:
-----Alloy------Tensile Strength----Yield Strength------ Brinell Hardness
----6061-T6-----45,000 PSI---------40,000 PSI-------------95
----7075-T6-----83,000 PSI---------73,000 PSI-------------150
 
ZEKE- I have a few friends that are koolaid guys..LOL ( ch139 cough ). But he does not bash my goods either...LOL

On the Aluminum, if I was to hand you two different lowers could you tell me the difference?

All we can go off of is what the company is telling us.
6061 is used in many aplications.
7075 also.

When it comes to certain parts on a gun, I would prefer 6061 do to the shear strength. I would rather a part bend than snap or shatter.
7075 is usually brittle in its natural state. There is no "hard" anodizing that I have seen in the gun world. I raced RC cars for many years and have dealt with the different types of AL for along time. I am also in the "metals" field. Fabricator.

BIGFOOT
 
ZEKE- I have a few friends that are koolaid guys..LOL ( ch139 cough ). But he does not bash my goods either...LOL

On the Aluminum, if I was to hand you two different lowers could you tell me the difference?

All we can go off of is what the company is telling us.
6061 is used in many aplications.
7075 also.

When it comes to certain parts on a gun, I would prefer 6061 do to the shear strength. I would rather a part bend than snap or shatter.
7075 is usually brittle in its natural state. There is no "hard" anodizing that I have seen in the gun world. I raced RC cars for many years and have dealt with the different types of AL for along time. I am also in the "metals" field. Fabricator.

BIGFOOT


If you give me a center punch and a hammer I’m pretty sure I could tell the difference between the two lowers but I rather not test on my guns.;)
 
I don't really understand how the scope works, but even with those short (1"?) rings I can't see the front sight post at all. Now, when I put a longer scope on there I saw it, but not with that scope ring combo. Hope that answers your question. I have since then removed that scope from my AR, I'll post some new picks when I find them.
 
I really like this thread and want to keep it open. I also don't want this forum to turn into a huge pissing match. Please agree to disagree and lay off the personal attacks. If this doesn't stop I'm going to have to start deleting posts and closing threads, something I don't want to do.
 
Only arf I've got with anything other than irons... even then, it's just an optical sight.

Anyway, just an ole Aimpoint Comp M (IIRC) in an ARMS 22M68
 

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