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LUBE FOR THE AR-15/16 Rifle

We have used the following formula for years at the Law Enforcement Carbine Instructor Certification Classes we instruct at the Police Academy. (For over 20 years.)
First of all go to Wally World, Radio Control Store, or where you can buy a very small gas can. Also a few of the small dispensing bottles like form a Beauty Supply Store.
Formula:
One Quart of Mobile 1 15W50 Synthetic Motor Oil
(Viscosity can be reduced for extremely cold applications 15W30 for example.
Half Quart of Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF Transmission Fluid
Mix together and put into Gas Can. This makes a Quart and a Half of the best AR-15/16 Lube you will ever use and inexpensive for the volume it produces.
Then we put it in the Gas Can to Mix and for storage. And then into small dispenser bottles for the students use in the classes.
And the good news is three fold. The detergent properties helps keep the carbon from sticking to the parts, it will not gum up in the weapon and it will "Not Cook Off" during intense shooting of the weapon.<broken link removed>
As previously stated! The Bolt Carrier Group of the AR-15/16 Rifle should always look wet when ready to use!

03
 
I've pretty much have used mobile 1 or royal purple 0w30 or 10w30 on mine for a long time. It's what I've used in my vehicles so it was always around.

I've yet to fall into one of those $30 an ounce gun cleaner schemes. You know, the canola oil types.

I've been experimenting on a super budget beater build with nothing but wd40 and a air compressor for a bit. So far so good.
 
Reno, please stop with the WD40 ;) Unless you're trying to prove a point :p

See below and note the pro's/con's of doing all this (not saying any of it doesn't work, but there are obvious drawbacks to using motor oil (whether you've seen it or not)

*Edit - the below is not written by myself.

Motor oils: Generally good boundary lubrication (particularly the Havoline formulations), but very poor corrosion resistance and poor resistance to open-air oxidation. The biggest problem is that their pour-point additives often contain benzene compounds, which aren't a good thing to have next to your skin on a regular basis! I recommend staying away from motor oils; if you must use something from the auto parts store, ATF performs better for firearms use on every count, even if it is a tad more expensive. (ATF is still 1/10 to 1/100th the cost of a speciality "gun oil.")

WD-40: WD-40 was never meant to be a lubricant – it was designed as a moisture displacer. It's far too light for any load protection, has incredibly poor corrosion resistance, contains zero boundary lubricants, and rapidly oxidizes to form a sickly yellow varnish (hint: this is not good for delicate internal lockwork.) There are those who will defend this stuff vehemently, but then again you can still find people who think smokeless powder is a passing fad. Just. Don't.


Gear oils: Too thick for the application. In addition, they contain tackifiers which gives them poor migration and lead to oxidization in open air, rendering them even more "sticky" – pretty much what we don't want. (Some folks use it on their slide rails because it's thicker and won't migrate easily; a light grease is a far better choice.) If you really want a thicker oil with all the good characteristics we've covered, but is still cheap, mix ATF and STP Oil Treatment in a 40/60 ratio. Far better than gear oil on every count – but I'd still much rather have a good food grade NLGI #0 grease.
 
Last Edited:
Reno, please stop with the WD40

Never! :cool:

On a serious note, I think folks get a little worked up by folks that use simple off the counter inexpensive products to do what they do with $800 super lubes, made from unobtanium and promise untold super powers. Im surprised a lube company hasn't blatantly just stated that their stuff will make you shoot sub minute accuracy.

It's such a funny topic. Makes me smile.

I like the KISS method and stick to if it ain't broken don't fix it.

Maybe I'll switch to KY instead of WD40:eek:
 

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